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BCM maybe?

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Old 08-29-2011, 08:20 AM
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Went threw the wires till im blue in the face I have finally got the power locks to work now only problem is windows and power mirs. I took the bored out and looked it over all looks fine should i heat the joints up any way on each relay to see if thats the problem? what color are the wires running to the doors. I took the switch panle out and tested for power back there and nothing happened there
Old 08-29-2011, 09:17 AM
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did a little more testing the ip dimmer fuse is getting no power did a by pass on that to get power dash lights work but still no windows gonna try bcm rebuild to see if that works any info on wire colors for the doors or where the ip gets its power from would be useful thanks
Old 08-29-2011, 09:00 PM
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The door lock wiring is as follows:
ORN/BLK - Unlock trigger wire between door switches and BCM
RED/BLK - Lock trigger wire between door switches and BCM
GRY - Lock all wire between BCM and lock actuators
TAN - Unlock left door wire between BCM and lock actuator
GRY/BLK - Unlock right door wire between BCM and lock actuator

The door mirror wiring is as follows:
ORN - power to switch
BLK - ground at switch
YEL and GRN - up and down motor wires between switch and left mirror
WHT and LT BLU - left and right motor wires between switch and left mirror
YEL and BRN/WHT - up and down motor wires between switch and right mirror
RED/WHT and LT BLU - left and right motor wires between switch and right mirror
(the switch reverses polarity on the motor wires to change motor direction)

The instrument panel lights get power via the GRY wire from the IP DIMMER fuse. The fuse gets power from the dimmer switch via the DRK GRN wire. The dimmer switch gets power from the headlight switch via the BRN wire.

Other than that, I try not to discourage anyone who would rather replace or repair random components instead of testing.
Old 08-29-2011, 09:37 PM
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Well im doing the testing and coming up blue gonna keep working reason i ask on wire color was there was a alarm that was cut out of the car while it was a roller so that way i know what wires under the dash to run and check the connections there making shure there not just taped up. Thanks for your reply alot Ive searched alot and post and your always the one walking people threw it. I know how hard it is sometimes trying to explain somthing to someone and them not understanding but thank you for your time.
Old 08-29-2011, 09:39 PM
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and one other thing the door window wires are what color? I got the locks working fine now. Only other thing I may do by the end of the week is pull the whole dash harness out and look it over possibly buy a replacment
Old 08-30-2011, 07:05 AM
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The left door window wires are:
BRN - power from WINDOWS circuit breaker in fuse panel
BLK - ground
DK BLU - left window up (goes to both the window motor and the window control module)
GRY - left window down (goes to the window control module)
LT BLU - right window up (goes to switch in right door)
TAN - right window down (goes to switch in right door)
BRN (another one) - left window down (goes from window module to window motor)

The right door window wires are:
BRN - power from WINDOWS circuit breaker in fuse panel
LT BLU - right window up (comes from switch in left door)
TAN - right window down (comes from switch in left door)
DK BLU - right window up (between switch and motor)
BRN (another one) - right window down (between switch and motor)

The DK BLU and BRN wires at the window motors will reverse polarity depending on which way the switch is pressed.
Old 09-09-2011, 02:25 PM
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are these wires the same for all 98-02? my car is a 98
Old 09-12-2011, 07:58 AM
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Yes, all 98-02 f-bodies used the same window and lock wiring.
Old 09-20-2011, 08:49 PM
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question these wires from the bcm to the door correct? Im going to check that out in a few so couldnt a person run jumpers that would tell me if theses a bad place in the middle correct
Old 09-21-2011, 07:21 AM
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Most of the wires run from the BCM to the door except those noted as coming from the switch. You could run jumper wires but it would be much easier to test with a multimeter or test light. Check for power at the BCM end of a wire (under the proper conditions such as door unlock switch pressed) and then test again at the door. If there is power at one end but not at the other then you have a break in the wire.




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