2000 Firebird Trans Am WS.6 vs. 2011 Mustang GT 5.0
#242
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#244
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it's under there to help bring the clutch pedal back. pressure plate force alone generally doesn't do it.
#246
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i'm not totally sure on the chevys....but on the fords, there was a problem with the clutch return spring under the dash. if yours is a 4th gen, you could simply need to replace it with a new one, or possibly a slightly stronger one.
it's under there to help bring the clutch pedal back. pressure plate force alone generally doesn't do it.
it's under there to help bring the clutch pedal back. pressure plate force alone generally doesn't do it.
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#247
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wait? you have to pump the pedal......as in double clutching? to get into gear at high rpm? that would be more a hydraulic problem. the problem caused by the spring i mentioned doesn't prevent shifting....it lets the centrifugal force overcome the spring and the pressure plates ability to re-engage the clutch at higher rpm.
#249
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wait? you have to pump the pedal......as in double clutching? to get into gear at high rpm? that would be more a hydraulic problem. the problem caused by the spring i mentioned doesn't prevent shifting....it lets the centrifugal force overcome the spring and the pressure plates ability to re-engage the clutch at higher rpm.
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Hey Mike, good thing you passed on the S600 and settled for the 5.
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And to reiterate what Redfire03 said, if someone with a cam/bolt-on LS1 needs to "worry" about stock GT's, then someone doesnt know what the **** they're doing and should drive that heap of **** off the nearest levy.
You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.
Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet
) you know that. Stop playing with these kids!
On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.
- Jaysik
You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.
Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.
- Jaysik
#252
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This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
7. Apply a vacuum of 51–68 kPa (15–20 hg) and remove the adapter.
8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
12. Add additional fluid if needed.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.
DUNNO IF THAT'LL HELP OR NOT.
1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
7. Apply a vacuum of 51–68 kPa (15–20 hg) and remove the adapter.
8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
12. Add additional fluid if needed.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.
DUNNO IF THAT'LL HELP OR NOT.
#254
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And to reiterate what Redfire03 said, if someone with a cam/bolt-on LS1 needs to "worry" about stock GT's, then someone doesnt know what the **** they're doing and should drive that heap of **** off the nearest levy.
You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.
Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet
) you know that. Stop playing with these kids!
On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.
- Jaysik
You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.
Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.
- Jaysik
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Also earlier, I was talking about Redfire's question/statement about why someone would ever pick an ls6 cam, and I said it's not the cam it's the combo. It seemed like he was implying that there was no way an ls6 cammed car with bolt ons could run well, and that's far from what I have seen.
Just because one guy runs high twelves means squat. Additionally, I don't have an ls6 cam and I only ever run comps. So just for clarification, I'm not nutswingin' the ls6 cam lol. I never said anything about high twelve second, ls6 cammed cars running over 5.0s either....so
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#255
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Hey he's been here since 2009, and he's already told you once... Can't you see how many posts he has helping others on here? He's a real blessing in the tech sections by the looks of it lol jk.
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You obviously help more people than he does. Since he only believes in helping out in the tech sections...
. Okay I'm done, just messing around
.
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You obviously help more people than he does. Since he only believes in helping out in the tech sections...
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Last edited by oddwraith; 03-30-2012 at 11:40 AM.
#257
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No worried and thanks, some people would rather be ******** about everything.
Also fwiw (because people here seem to be ******* stupid) I ran a 12.8 on stock tune before I added headers... Shifting at 6k instead of 6500... Sorry im not loaded and couldn't get a tune before and after I add each mod didn't mean to dissapoint the resident ballers.
Also fwiw (because people here seem to be ******* stupid) I ran a 12.8 on stock tune before I added headers... Shifting at 6k instead of 6500... Sorry im not loaded and couldn't get a tune before and after I add each mod didn't mean to dissapoint the resident ballers.
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Hey just to introduce myself. I'm oddwraith, I'm 36 years old (not a "kid"...stupid head
) and I defend the 5.0 more than anything else really. Anyone on here should know this. I also like the new 392 cars, but it's a toss up for me when it comes down to comparisons.
Also earlier, I was talking about Redfire's question/statement about why someone would ever pick an ls6 cam, and I said it's not the cam it's the combo. It seemed like he was implying that there was no way an ls6 cammed car with bolt ons could run well, and that's far from what I have seen.
Just because one guy runs high twelves means squat. Additionally, I don't have an ls6 cam and I only ever run comps. So just for clarification, I'm not nutswingin' the ls6 cam lol. I never said anything about high twelve second, ls6 cammed cars running over 5.0s either....so
lol. So nice to meet you...now **** off with that ****...another drunken Cali boy it seems ...![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
![Tongue](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_tongue.gif)
Also earlier, I was talking about Redfire's question/statement about why someone would ever pick an ls6 cam, and I said it's not the cam it's the combo. It seemed like he was implying that there was no way an ls6 cammed car with bolt ons could run well, and that's far from what I have seen.
Just because one guy runs high twelves means squat. Additionally, I don't have an ls6 cam and I only ever run comps. So just for clarification, I'm not nutswingin' the ls6 cam lol. I never said anything about high twelve second, ls6 cammed cars running over 5.0s either....so
![Huh](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/huh.gif)
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
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With that said I get exactly where Mike was coming from with that statement. The fact that one would opt for a whimpy cam like the *production* LS6 on an LS1 motor as his choice for a cam-swap definitely raises some questions. There are other smallish cams out there that would be much more worth the time and effort it takes to do the job, not to mention make a bunch more power not only peak but down low and everywhere else. But to each his own. Your comment about "GM putting it in the Z06" is moot since there are several other factors working for that car, like higher compression and LS6 heads - not to mention considerably lighter vehicle weight and better gearing. Even those guys grin when swapping out the 'ol whimpy 204/218 117* for a real cam. Been there, done that.
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Did that lay it out for you Oddball?
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#259
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Maybe because my car seems to run very well (according to the guys I've raced out here), but the only race I have to date against a new 5.0 was neck and neck (40-110/115). The mustang driver was nailing all his shift too.
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Some of you guys need thicker skin, or stop using tampons. One or the other.
And to the person using Forum join dates as a method of determining ones level of automotive knowledge and contribution, well, no need to say anything. Stupidity speaks for itself. Good afternoon Kids.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
- Jaysik
And to the person using Forum join dates as a method of determining ones level of automotive knowledge and contribution, well, no need to say anything. Stupidity speaks for itself. Good afternoon Kids.
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- Jaysik