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2000 Firebird Trans Am WS.6 vs. 2011 Mustang GT 5.0

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Old 03-29-2012, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1ltcap
have you checked the return spring under the dash?
Back to serious business what do I need to look for here? Can I replace it with a new one or is the spring available?
Old 03-29-2012, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Redfire 03
That's the one thing I hate about owning an expensive car. Everyone wants to talk about how much it costs, and then go on with some sob story about it. My car has nothing to do with your cam selection. It was just a question - nothing more, nothing less.
Originally Posted by Redfire 03
That's the one thing I hate about owning an expensive car. Everyone wants to talk about how much it costs, and then go on with some sob story about it. My car has nothing to do with your cam selection. It was just a question - nothing more, nothing less.
Old 03-29-2012, 11:24 PM
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Um. No.
Old 03-30-2012, 12:52 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpYeekQkAdc&ob=av3e




lol.
Old 03-30-2012, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by S8ER95Z
Back to serious business what do I need to look for here? Can I replace it with a new one or is the spring available?
i'm not totally sure on the chevys....but on the fords, there was a problem with the clutch return spring under the dash. if yours is a 4th gen, you could simply need to replace it with a new one, or possibly a slightly stronger one.
it's under there to help bring the clutch pedal back. pressure plate force alone generally doesn't do it.
Old 03-30-2012, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ltcap
i'm not totally sure on the chevys....but on the fords, there was a problem with the clutch return spring under the dash. if yours is a 4th gen, you could simply need to replace it with a new one, or possibly a slightly stronger one.
it's under there to help bring the clutch pedal back. pressure plate force alone generally doesn't do it.
I will look into this...thank you!! I've been literally.. I can wot up to redline...push the clutch and no longer shift into anything until I pump the clutch... it gets old after a while.
Old 03-30-2012, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by S8ER95Z
I will look into this...thank you!! I've been literally.. I can wot up to redline...push the clutch and no longer shift into anything until I pump the clutch... it gets old after a while.
wait? you have to pump the pedal......as in double clutching? to get into gear at high rpm? that would be more a hydraulic problem. the problem caused by the spring i mentioned doesn't prevent shifting....it lets the centrifugal force overcome the spring and the pressure plates ability to re-engage the clutch at higher rpm.
Old 03-30-2012, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Irunelevens
Maybe if you wouldn't act like a douche ALL THE TIME




Old 03-30-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 1ltcap
wait? you have to pump the pedal......as in double clutching? to get into gear at high rpm? that would be more a hydraulic problem. the problem caused by the spring i mentioned doesn't prevent shifting....it lets the centrifugal force overcome the spring and the pressure plates ability to re-engage the clutch at higher rpm.
Yeah it's not the pedal return that's the issue or anything.... it just won't let me shift at all.. Ill mityvac it this weekend and see what happens.
Old 03-30-2012, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by S8ER95Z
Sorry us dirt farmers don't have 100k cars that can take on these 5.0s.. They run 11s stock!
Lame Sauce anyone?
Originally Posted by Irunelevens
As expected from LS1Tech's biggest critic always ready to sprinkle some Hatorade!


Hey Mike, good thing you passed on the S600 and settled for the 5.
Old 03-30-2012, 10:02 AM
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And to reiterate what Redfire03 said, if someone with a cam/bolt-on LS1 needs to "worry" about stock GT's, then someone doesnt know what the **** they're doing and should drive that heap of **** off the nearest levy.

You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.

Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet) you know that. Stop playing with these kids!

On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.

- Jaysik
Old 03-30-2012, 10:11 AM
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This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.

1. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
2. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
3. Remove the reservoir cap.
4. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
5. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.

Important: Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
6. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
7. Apply a vacuum of 51–68 kPa (15–20 hg) and remove the adapter.
8. Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
9. Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
10. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.

Caution: The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
11. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
12. Add additional fluid if needed.
13. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.

DUNNO IF THAT'LL HELP OR NOT.
Old 03-30-2012, 10:36 AM
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There are dozens of stickies around here in the "TECH" sections that help with these types of issues. Just use the SEARCH feature.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Demon 383
And to reiterate what Redfire03 said, if someone with a cam/bolt-on LS1 needs to "worry" about stock GT's, then someone doesnt know what the **** they're doing and should drive that heap of **** off the nearest levy.

You guys (Oddwraith) are saying "its all in the combo", well that combo obviously ain't working if you can't get that **** out of the high 12's (which is where 90% of stock '11-up GT's are on a good night)...so out the door with that B.S.

Mike you're a real ******* ******* (on the internet) you know that. Stop playing with these kids!

On a serious note its not going to rain tonite, I'm bringing the GT to track for a few flog runs. Bring the Busa out why don't ya? You know how us "Cali" boys do it.

- Jaysik
Hey just to introduce myself. I'm oddwraith, I'm 36 years old (not a "kid"...stupid head ) and I defend the 5.0 more than anything else really. Anyone on here should know this. I also like the new 392 cars, but it's a toss up for me when it comes down to comparisons.

Also earlier, I was talking about Redfire's question/statement about why someone would ever pick an ls6 cam, and I said it's not the cam it's the combo. It seemed like he was implying that there was no way an ls6 cammed car with bolt ons could run well, and that's far from what I have seen.

Just because one guy runs high twelves means squat. Additionally, I don't have an ls6 cam and I only ever run comps. So just for clarification, I'm not nutswingin' the ls6 cam lol. I never said anything about high twelve second, ls6 cammed cars running over 5.0s either....so lol. So nice to meet you...now **** off with that ****...another drunken Cali boy it seems ...
Old 03-30-2012, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Demon 383
There are dozens of stickies around here in the "TECH" sections that help with these types of issues. Just use the SEARCH feature.
i was just trying to help the dude........i've posted a few in the tech help sections too.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:34 AM
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Hey he's been here since 2009, and he's already told you once... Can't you see how many posts he has helping others on here? He's a real blessing in the tech sections by the looks of it lol jk.

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You obviously help more people than he does. Since he only believes in helping out in the tech sections.... Okay I'm done, just messing around .

Last edited by oddwraith; 03-30-2012 at 11:40 AM.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:37 AM
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No worried and thanks, some people would rather be ******** about everything.

Also fwiw (because people here seem to be ******* stupid) I ran a 12.8 on stock tune before I added headers... Shifting at 6k instead of 6500... Sorry im not loaded and couldn't get a tune before and after I add each mod didn't mean to dissapoint the resident ballers.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by oddwraith
Hey just to introduce myself. I'm oddwraith, I'm 36 years old (not a "kid"...stupid head ) and I defend the 5.0 more than anything else really. Anyone on here should know this. I also like the new 392 cars, but it's a toss up for me when it comes down to comparisons.

Also earlier, I was talking about Redfire's question/statement about why someone would ever pick an ls6 cam, and I said it's not the cam it's the combo. It seemed like he was implying that there was no way an ls6 cammed car with bolt ons could run well, and that's far from what I have seen.

Just because one guy runs high twelves means squat. Additionally, I don't have an ls6 cam and I only ever run comps. So just for clarification, I'm not nutswingin' the ls6 cam lol. I never said anything about high twelve second, ls6 cammed cars running over 5.0s either....so lol. So nice to meet you...now **** off with that ****...another drunken Cali boy it seems ...
I have to admit, I pretty much skimmed through majority of your post. The whole "stupid head" comment completely threw me off preventing me from taking you seriously, while confirming my assumptions at the same time.

With that said I get exactly where Mike was coming from with that statement. The fact that one would opt for a whimpy cam like the *production* LS6 on an LS1 motor as his choice for a cam-swap definitely raises some questions. There are other smallish cams out there that would be much more worth the time and effort it takes to do the job, not to mention make a bunch more power not only peak but down low and everywhere else. But to each his own. Your comment about "GM putting it in the Z06" is moot since there are several other factors working for that car, like higher compression and LS6 heads - not to mention considerably lighter vehicle weight and better gearing. Even those guys grin when swapping out the 'ol whimpy 204/218 117* for a real cam. Been there, done that. But again, to each his own. But I must say, Mike (Redfire to you dudes) has a valid point/opinion. If you don't like opinions I don't know what to tell you.

Did that lay it out for you Oddball?
Old 03-30-2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Redfire 03
For the last time, a 2011+ GT vs LS1 F-body is not a close race. With all things equal. the 5.0 will walk easily.
Maybe because my car seems to run very well (according to the guys I've raced out here), but the only race I have to date against a new 5.0 was neck and neck (40-110/115). The mustang driver was nailing all his shift too.
Old 03-30-2012, 11:52 AM
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Some of you guys need thicker skin, or stop using tampons. One or the other.

And to the person using Forum join dates as a method of determining ones level of automotive knowledge and contribution, well, no need to say anything. Stupidity speaks for itself. Good afternoon Kids.

- Jaysik


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