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'11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*

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Old 02-05-2013 | 05:44 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Gm's lsx race engine makes more power than their 572 race engine. Now the only proper way to do the comparison is to have both go threw the same development process's and durability process's. I would assume that's what gm did when they built these crate engines. The result was a more powerful lsx than bbc.

Now could someone go out here and build a more powerful version of each??? More than likely, but would both then have similar durability?? Who knows.

Do you see my point?
But which has the potential to make more power? We arent comparing off the shelf crate engines. We are talking max effort.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by evangto87
But which has the potential to make more power? We arent comparing off the shelf crate engines. We are talking max effort.
I don't know. You have to keep them at the same durability levels for a accurate comparison to me. I could care less about max effort anything unless it's a bolt-on car.

Hell I could care less about anything I can't/won't dd for that matter. I have no use for it.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
I don't know. You have to keep them at the same durability levels for a accurate comparison to me. I could care less about max effort anything unless it's a bolt-on car.

Hell I could care less about anything I can't/won't dd for that matter. I have no use for it.
To answer my question... its BBC...by a landslide. And the reliabilty/durability is determined by the same things any other build comes from. Parts used and if its properly setup.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by evangto87
To answer my question... its BBC...by a landslide. And the reliabilty/durability is determined by the same things any other build comes from. Parts used and if its properly setup.
The problem is that I don't care. You trying to get your answer out of someone who is ONLY interested in useing production parts to go fast. Aftermarket heads/bolcks/cranks/rods don't mean **** to me. Some things we have to refer to the aftermarket to get. But the basics of the any engine I ever tinker with will be production based parts. So to me that's as max effort as it gets.

The last engine I did was a 400 sbc patterened around a 350 zz3 crate engine, L98 heads and all. The only thing aftermarket in that engine was the pistons(because you have to), cam(you don't have to but it helps) and the intake which was patterned after the old 70 lt1 intake but with modern provisions....and it ran great. Awesome tq, it actually spun my diff on the axle tubes, ripped the driveshaft out and busted the transfer case tail housing in one shot....lol

I don't buy aftermarket stuff much and I like porting my own ****....even though I bought a mamo'd intake for my ls7.....I actually regret that.

Last edited by HioSSilver; 02-05-2013 at 06:42 PM.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Cool car there. Gitter done with the 4speed.

Adam thanks for replying for me. You have better edicut than myself...lol

The old stuff sucks...I hate a ******* carburetor. I go out and start my car in 5* weather and never touch the gas.....carburetors suck. Solid rollers suck on the street and everyone knows it. 12.5 compression I'm sure performs flawless on pump gas.


So your car is 3900-1300=2600 for jpc's car. That's 550~lb lighter than my raceweight.....**** me I bet I could get over 135 at that raceweight....thanks for pointing that out. It just evolved a little more.

By the way their car would be a engine/trans swap.....since you like goin there so much.

It probably good that you gave it away. Clearly you did not know wtf you were doing it you had much more power than me and went the same speed. Were you skeered of it??

All this and your trying to compare it to my bolt-on engine....really?

So you might run 13's in it then?? Damn, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt.

It might just out run your shitbox

For real....when are guys gonna stop trying to compare a dd to a racecar??


The ls7 made 505. Why don't you do that with tq? While your at it do it with engine weight to see which one makes more per pound. Then you can measure them and calculate their outside cubic dimensions and maybe to a power per cubic dimension....that would be cool!!!
Why does it stop making power when the boss keeps making it?
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The problem is that I don't care. You trying to get your answer out of someone who is ONLY interested in useing production parts to go fast. Aftermarket heads/bolcks/cranks/rods don't mean **** to me. Some things we have to refer to the aftermarket to get. But the basics of the any engine I ever tinker with will be production based parts. So to me that's as max effort as it gets.

The last engine I did was a 400 sbc patterened around a 350 zz3 crate engine, L98 heads and all. The only thing aftermarket in that engine was the pistons(because you have to), cam(you don't have to but it helps) and the intake which was patterned after the old 70 lt1 intake but with modern provisions....and it ran great.

I don't buy aftermarket stuff much and I like porting my own ****....even though I bought a mamo'd intake for my ls7.....I actually regret that.
If you are only intrested in production parts to go fast then you should be swinging off 4v nuts not lsx nuts
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Cool car there. Gitter done with the 4speed.

Adam thanks for replying for me. You have better edicut than myself...lol

The old stuff sucks...I hate a ******* carburetor. I go out and start my car in 5* weather and never touch the gas.....carburetors suck. Solid rollers suck on the street and everyone knows it. 12.5 compression I'm sure performs flawless on pump gas.


So your car is 3900-1300=2600 for jpc's car. That's 550~lb lighter than my raceweight.....**** me I bet I could get over 135 at that raceweight....thanks for pointing that out. It just evolved a little more.

By the way their car would be a engine/trans swap.....since you like goin there so much.
How is their car a engien swap? its a 5.0 in a 2011 car..lol

And they went 9.7 at 2665. And 9.9 at 2985. S0 200lbs less then you and went 1 sec + faster an trapped 135 still. So stop trying to twist your BS cause your **** is slow with its engine swap. So agian they are faster t=in a bolt on car then your engine swapped car.


Also still no explaining why WBT's DD is faster then your with bolt ons and weighs 500lbs more and ran in worse DA? Oh ya cause he in to drag racing more. LOL Ya thats it.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:44 PM
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Start with a factory 4 bolt main 454.

Factory 454 forged crank

Some Old iron oval port factory heads

And any hydraulic cam cam of your choice.

If you really want to get technical, we can start naming factory big blocks from way back when that eclipse your max effort bolt on ls6 that rolled righ off the showroom floor not needing any bolt-ons whatsoever.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:45 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The problem is that I don't care. You trying to get your answer out of someone who is ONLY interested in useing production parts to go fast. Aftermarket heads/bolcks/cranks/rods don't mean **** to me. Some things we have to refer to the aftermarket to get. But the basics of the any engine I ever tinker with will be production based parts. So to me that's as max effort as it gets.

The last engine I did was a 400 sbc patterened around a 350 zz3 crate engine, L98 heads and all. The only thing aftermarket in that engine was the pistons(because you have to), cam(you don't have to but it helps) and the intake which was patterned after the old 70 lt1 intake but with modern provisions....and it ran great.

I don't buy aftermarket stuff much and I like porting my own ****....even though I bought a mamo'd intake for my ls7.....I actually regret that.
Thats cool that you do that. I myself like that as well. However... that doesnt make me not like or acknowledge what other things can do in the aftermarket world. You caring less doesnt make it any less real.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The problem is that I don't care. You trying to get your answer out of someone who is ONLY interested in useing production parts to go fast. Aftermarket heads/bolcks/cranks/rods don't mean **** to me. Some things we have to refer to the aftermarket to get. But the basics of the any engine I ever tinker with will be production based parts. So to me that's as max effort as it gets.

The last engine I did was a 400 sbc patterened around a 350 zz3 crate engine, L98 heads and all. The only thing aftermarket in that engine was the pistons(because you have to), cam(you don't have to but it helps) and the intake which was patterned after the old 70 lt1 intake but with modern provisions....and it ran great. Awesome tq, it actually spun my diff on the axle tubes, ripped the driveshaft out and busted the transfer case tail housing in one shot....lol

I don't buy aftermarket stuff much and I like porting my own ****....even though I bought a mamo'd intake for my ls7.....I actually regret that.
SO using factory parts who is going to win with the 5th gen ls3 vs and GT5.0?

Bolt on SC kit right from Ford, Boss everything fits 5.0 including heads, forged internals, factory tunes for all that also as ford has dealers that will tune. Even dyno tune.

LS3, h/c and done from factory. No tune from factory to help with all that.



Oh let me guess now your going to say can only do n/a vs /na. And can use aftermarket tune, and get to use aftermarket internals cause GM don't have any for LS3...

Last edited by ohioborn80; 02-05-2013 at 07:04 PM.
Old 02-05-2013 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
SO using factory parts who is going to win with the 5th gen ls3 vs and GT5.0?

Bolt on SC kit right from Ford, Boss everything fits 5.0 including heads, forged internals, factory tunes for all that also as ford has dealers that will tune.

LS3, h/c and done from factory. No tune from factory to help with all that.



Oh let me guess now your going to say can only do n/a vs /na. And can use aftermarket tune, and get to use aftermarket internals cause GM don't have any for LS3...

if thats the case, i picked the right car for that made up class since all my **** literally is stock...not just a stock part.
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by evangto87
if thats the case, i picked the right car for that made up class since all my **** literally is stock...not just a stock part.
Ya after you swap tranny for a 6r80 since its a stock Ford part.
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
Ya after you swap tranny for a 6r80 since its a stock Ford part.
you remove the front sway bar in either of your cars? How bad did it effect handling if you did?
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:08 PM
  #234  
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Bottom line is some of us know the aspects of other platforms and at the end of the day Hiho can keep his daily driven 11 second car...all the way at the back of the bus.
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by evangto87
you remove the front sway bar in either of your cars? How bad did it effect handling if you did?
In both cars. When I had CJ springs on my auto it got a little squirly/loose above 120-130 with darg set up and 130-140 with 20's.

Lowered I don't even notice it gone.

Both ways it transfferred weight better. I got rid of it, the K brace, and did a lighter radiator support.

Front Sway Bar & Fasteners-----------------15.80lbs.
Z-Brace & Fastebers-------------------------5.86lbs.
^Plastic Shield-------------------------------1.66lbs.
OEM radiator support,...........16.55lbs


BMR rad support,.....................5.5lbs
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:29 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
In both cars. When I had CJ springs on my auto it got a little squirly/loose above 120-130 with darg set up and 130-140 with 20's.

Lowered I don't even notice it gone.

Both ways it transfferred weight better. I got rid of it, the K brace, and did a lighter radiator support.

Front Sway Bar & Fasteners-----------------15.80lbs.
Z-Brace & Fastebers-------------------------5.86lbs.
^Plastic Shield-------------------------------1.66lbs.
OEM radiator support,...........16.55lbs


BMR rad support,.....................5.5lbs
I have all of that removed along with the bmr radiator support. I just have my front hotchkis sway bar in.
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:40 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by evangto87
I have all of that removed along with the bmr radiator support. I just have my front hotchkis sway bar in.
I was just posting all weights just incase. IS your car lowered? Looks like it. If so take it off. LOL
Old 02-05-2013 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ohioborn80
I was just posting all weights just incase. IS your car lowered? Looks like it. If so take it off. LOL
i have factory roush springs on the car. They are slightly lower then boss springs... which are slightly lower then GT springs... lol. There no eibach sportlines... but they did lower the car an inch in the back over the boss springs and 3/4 an inch in the front.

The picture u see is actually with the stock boss springs in the front. Its lower in the front now
Old 02-05-2013 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by evangto87
i have factory roush springs on the car. They are slightly lower then boss springs... which are slightly lower then GT springs... lol. There no eibach sportlines... but they did lower the car an inch in the back over the boss springs and 3/4 an inch in the front.

The picture u see is actually with the stock boss springs in the front. Its lower in the front now
You should be fine then.

here few pics of my buddies 13 Boss. This is his 2nd boss. He had a 12, got rid for a F150 eco, then got a 13 GHIG 5.0, then got rid that for this.
Attached Thumbnails '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*-070.jpg   '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*-076.jpg   '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*-083.jpg   '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*-101-1.jpg   '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*-086.jpg  

Old 02-05-2013 | 08:02 PM
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Fuuuuuuuuuark white boss looks sexy as ****.


Quick Reply: '11 5.0 vs LS2 GTO *video*



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