Street Racing & Kill Stories Basic Technical Questions & Advice

2000 ss vs 97 cobra

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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 08:56 PM
  #21  
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i bought an ls6 intake that i haven't put on yet and was going to get it tuned but i just bought the camera guys SVT focus so no tune for ls1
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #22  
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Good kill OP. Especially with 205k on the odo. The gutted cats with the stock tune is killing you tho. At least run some 02 sims until you get a real tune.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mappinsj
the cobra has a factory twin 50MM throttle body, and the 90MM MAF actually made a crazy difference, .
Good kill, and no it didn't.

-Mark
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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Good run OP, my bro's old bolt-on '97 Cobra had a steady pull from 30-120 on my dad's bolt-on auto '99 Z28, I was the passenger in my dad's Camaro, brother was alone. By 120 it was about 2 - 2.5 cars. I think switching passengers would have made it a dead heat.
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Old Apr 13, 2015 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bitemark46
Good kill, and no it didn't.

-Mark
Lol for sure. Unless the stock MAF was fucked up.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 01:31 AM
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Good kill op, sounds like you guys had fun and got some good runs in. That's what it's all about and now you have a baseline on how your car runs against his. When you get more mods and tune it you'll be able to see the difference. Definitely get video next time and make his buddy stay out of the car so there will be no excuses.........I'm sure he can come up with something though, like you had helium in your tires with carbon fiber caps lol.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 02:59 AM
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Can't believe people still buy chambered Flowmasters, lol. Good kill. The 96-98 Cobras are fun to drive and rev to the moon but need steep gears and more bolt ons to beat a ls1.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NSO
Good kill OP. Especially with 205k on the odo. The gutted cats with the stock tune is killing you tho. At least run some 02 sims until you get a real tune.
This.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 01:28 PM
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I'm shocked that you didn't beat him by more. My tired old 97 Cobra ran a 14.3@99 in 90*F weather. Stock gearing is just horrible for a car with a 7 grand red line.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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[QUOTE=Bitemark46;18757184]Good kill, and no it didn't.

the MAF change made a wheel spinning difference, we think the old may have been chitty


Originally Posted by Blown383LS1
Can't believe people still buy chambered Flowmasters, lol. Good kill. The 96-98 Cobras are fun to drive and rev to the moon but need steep gears and more bolt ons to beat a ls1.
i bought the car with flow masters, i would have put GMMG

his car yes flowmasters but they are very very nice


Originally Posted by JC316
I'm shocked that you didn't beat him by more. My tired old 97 Cobra ran a 14.3@99 in 90*F weather. Stock gearing is just horrible for a car with a 7 grand red line.
his car runs like a scalded ape, its fast as ****, he was driving the cars ***** off, it is incredibly fun to drive the car

1996 mystic cobra with 4.10 LT, ORY, weight removal, cold air intake and tune with "God as a driver" has killed many a car

Last edited by Mappinsj; Apr 14, 2015 at 07:10 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 03:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Mappinsj;18758085]
Originally Posted by Bitemark46
Good kill, and no it didn't.

the MAF change made a wheel spinning difference, we think the old may have been chitty
Not saying that the 90maf did not make a difference but that is pretty big for his Cobra. That 90mm would be better suited for a supercharger. Sometimes to big a MAF can have an effect of your everyday drivability much like oversized fuel injectors.
Currently I am still on my stock 80mm maf and 24lb injectors. If I would go a little larger, it would be an 85mm at most.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 04:27 PM
  #32  
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Mach, you're an engineer so I don't need to go into depth, but as long as there is vacuum where the MAF is (aka air rushing by the sensor to "cool" it), so the anemometer can measure the voltage needed to keep the MAF wires hot, the car should run fine. I am not basing this off of theory, but real life as my coupe had a home-made 102mm MAF (4" aluminum pipe with MAF block welded on), and it drove around like a dream.

However, I did only have that car on the road during relatively warm months, so it doesn't take great temperature disparities into consideration.

For you guys who don't know how a MAF works, the computer wants to see your MAF sensing wires at a certain temperature (I don't know the exact figure). When your engine is running, air is rushing over the MAF wires, in essence "cooling" them off, your computer applies more voltage to the MAF wires to compensate for the "cooling" to keep the wires at the desired temperature.

This is why if you check your MAF voltage as RPMs increase, the voltage increases as well because the computer has to apply more voltage to keep the temperature where it wants as more air is passing the wires.

Pretty neat stuff from an engineering standpoint. The voltage required to keep the wires a certain temp is directly related (along with coolant temp, intake air temp, some other **** I'm sure) to the amount of fuel sprayed into the cylinder.

Back to what Bitemark said, I don't think a bigger MAF will make a "huge" difference unless you have a motor with great heads, cam, intake, exhaust, and you're just choking the **** out of it with a tiny MAF.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 06:05 PM
  #33  
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went from chirp to wheel spin, only what i could see and they told me. all there is too it. maybe a filter change at the same time did a difference also
car ran like it just woke up 5 minutes before work and clocked in 4 minutes later
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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Any plans to bring it to the track?
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 06:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by snake95
Mach, you're an engineer so I don't need to go into depth, but as long as there is vacuum where the MAF is (aka air rushing by the sensor to "cool" it), so the anemometer can measure the voltage needed to keep the MAF wires hot, the car should run fine. I am not basing this off of theory, but real life as my coupe had a home-made 102mm MAF (4" aluminum pipe with MAF block welded on), and it drove around like a dream.

However, I did only have that car on the road during relatively warm months, so it doesn't take great temperature disparities into consideration.

For you guys who don't know how a MAF works, the computer wants to see your MAF sensing wires at a certain temperature (I don't know the exact figure). When your engine is running, air is rushing over the MAF wires, in essence "cooling" them off, your computer applies more voltage to the MAF wires to compensate for the "cooling" to keep the wires at the desired temperature.

This is why if you check your MAF voltage as RPMs increase, the voltage increases as well because the computer has to apply more voltage to keep the temperature where it wants as more air is passing the wires.

Pretty neat stuff from an engineering standpoint. The voltage required to keep the wires a certain temp is directly related (along with coolant temp, intake air temp, some other **** I'm sure) to the amount of fuel sprayed into the cylinder.

Back to what Bitemark said, I don't think a bigger MAF will make a "huge" difference unless you have a motor with great heads, cam, intake, exhaust, and you're just choking the **** out of it with a tiny MAF.
Good information Snake! The only reason I initially commented on the size of his 90mm maf sensor was to dispel the idea that bigger is not always better. In the case of a sensor, (any sensor) normally they are sized to cover the entire range of the process being measured but also with the consideration of not being over-sized such that the signal "granularity" is lost.

For e.g. if a temperature is being controlled in a process using a {PV}Process Variable (Temp Transmitter in DegC), a {SP}Setpoint (value trying to be maintained in DegC) and a {CV}Control Variable (a modulating flap or any heat source in %), then the control quality of that closed loop is dependent not only on the data it receives from the transmitter but also how fine the flap or heat source can be modulated. In other words, if the heat source can only provide a temperature range of 25 to 85 DegC than a good size for the transmitter would be 0 - 100 DegC and NOT (-25 to 500) since the granularity of the signal is reduced and control is diminished.

The reason for maintaining tighter ranges is really due to the conversion of the real world parameters such as temperature, air flow, pressure etc. These values are converted to a proportional 0-10V or 4-20mA control signal in order to be used in a calculation such as a PID Controller. This controller simply takes in a Process Variable and manipulates an output CV based on the SP entry value. How aggressive or soft the closed loop controls is based on additional parameters know as Proportional, Derivative and Integral.

Just saying that a maf sensor that is more suited to a motor's capability of drawing in air past the sensor will probably offer better control of the amount of fuel that the injectors will deliver.

Last edited by MACHXLR8; Apr 14, 2015 at 06:59 PM.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 07:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Any plans to bring it to the track?
yes cobra is getting slicks and going to the track, if that falls through street tire :/
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 07:45 PM
  #37  
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Smh some misinformed folks on here. The 90mm MAF is a great upgrade for a Mach. IIRC some have seen ~10 whp over the 80.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 07:49 PM
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Good kill op.....can't say I've ever seen those cobro's run very hard. Your car is likely running worse than stock with your mods.
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Good kill op.....can't say I've ever seen those cobro's run very hard. Your car is likely running worse than stock with your mods.
the cobra is freaking fast, it was moving but i was about to hit 4k in third and was gonna pull hard, then we let out

yeah probably, im just tired of smelling like fuel every time i go somewhere LOL, who cares how it runs when ladies are always asking why you smell like fuel, but like i said i just bought a focus. so no tune till i sell some stuff off my parts car

my ls6 intake needs seals, and my motor needs ls6 cooling lines and block offs for the back, 100$ for those and the tune at most be like 350$

lets recap that i did give him the hit because of the passenger, i was trying to avoid excuses,
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Old Apr 14, 2015 | 08:52 PM
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You can just grind the bottom of the intake instead of dealing with the lines
And you both need to get some time slips
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