Its Stock

Older vid of my car cuz it still isn't done and I miss racing.

GTO: Patriot heads (compression bump), Cam (don't know specs don't care), 383ci stroker, longtubes, intake, DR's

My car: Boss, X pipe, Lund tune, stock 19" wheels/235 all seasons.

BlkMach1

Oh crap, It's Stock is after the butthurtz. Lol

Its Stock

Just posting my races man lol

Bolt On

Its not his fault the truth causes butthurt. I have similar results running a FBO,cam,tune goat when I was exhaust and tune only.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Wow that's a weak 383 setup lol! Good kill regardless

assasinator

I wish i had three mods on my 5.bro. You are fast man. Congrats

assasinator

If that was my 383, i would have a hundred rear wheel on any three mod bro.

Its Stock

You're supposed to be on my side here. *****.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Definitely! I'd think even the most mild HCI 383 should be at least 450 rwhp/rwtq

assasinator

Not put cking on you....but t why the cathedral ports on a block that can take rectangulars? Torque? I think about it more and more to build a ls that would make REAL POWER. If i built a small inch id use 862's, but not. Bigger inch build.

If i built ANY LS, it would be a 7500-8500 rpm monster.

The last chevy i built liked 7700 rpms


Ultra light billet rods, forgings throughout. Moderate lift high duration solid cam. Tec

assasinator

If you use undercut back cut valves high lift is unnecessary

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=assasinator;19385659]Not put cking on you....but t why the cathedral ports on a block that can take rectangulars? Torque? I think about it more and more to build a ls that would make REAL POWER. If i built a small inch id use 862's, but not. Bigger inch build.

If i built ANY LS, it would be a 7500-8500 rpm monster.

The last chevy i built liked 7700 rpms

If you're asking about my build, the reason I run these 862's on my setup is because it's what I had on the old LS1 when it blew up. Cam and crank were toast, but heads were fine, so I reused them since I was on a budget, and a iron block 6.0 was my cheapest option

CamOnlyJabroni

Kip@Cam Motion just sent me out a pretty stout solid roller for my old LT1. Lots of lift and duration. Old dinosaur **** though.

assasinator

Nothing revvs like a solid. Gen1 and gen2 i like .525-.550 limit for durability

Duration and heads work fixes curtain losses.

Im talking 250-260 @ .050. If f you have inches more duration solid.

assasinator

[QUOTE=HCI2000SS;19385676]Cool. They are good heads

assasinator

A coworker had a gen1 350 built with stealth, decent cam and makes 340 rwhp with a mild tune. He has 50 or more hp on the table from a single plane and 850 cfm carb. He uses stock bow tie vortec heads. 240 cfm if i remember right. He didnt want more power then he has now. About 400 crank.

My advice he followed mostly. I never got around to tunng it for him. He retired

assasinator

You are fast. Im just picking. Im not a fan of lot,of things in my car. Im making it what it should have been factory. I cant run it to its potential because the drivetrain sucks. My 96 feels like a mustang. Fits like a glove. Like a fighter cockpit.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

It should really be 500whp wuth any thought at all put into it.
383 don't take ls3 heads. It's typically a ls1 bore with a 4" crank.



That was one say 383 right there. To put that 383 in perspective it got pulled by a 12sec car.

Its Stock

My car ran mid 7's man

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

Not on those 235 all seasons. ......you were on a drag pak right. Hence 12sec car. And mid 7s would be like 7.5~ .....you didn't run a 7.5 if i remember right yoyr times were similar to the lbo ls1 i drove.

To put this in more perspective. ....its stupid has like a 116 trap. So to show what the pile of poo that 383 was it would be lucky to run 112.