LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

Here's a nice tach for sale:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lsx-parts-sale/531398-sale-brand-new-autometer-gauges-pic-inside.html

FarBeyondDriven

Had to register also as i hate to see someone having this many problems...

First off.. whats up man, im in northern louisiana, and if you were at red river raceway, thats where we go all the time as well. I have several friends with 5 liters that can help you out. There are 6 of us that help each other out and if you arent too far away, you are more thean welcome to come hang out so we can take a stab at your ride and see whats up.

i dont think switching to the bigger carb is going to solve your problems... it sounds like you may have a jetting issue.. bigger carbs dont always make more power or clear up the issues. im not asking this to be a dick, but do you know much about carbs? if not, check this place out: http://www.jason.fletcher.net/default.htm there is a TON of useful stuff on there about carbs and mustangs in general. Also, as dude said earlier, come over to stangnet and take a walk through the 5.0 tech section. check out a dude named crazy pete, he knows a ton about carbs and can probably help you out immensely. (the dude is literally nuts, but knows his carbs)

The reason i was so apt to register and reply was because i switched from EFI to carb as well. I took my stang apart because i was running 14.01's with it, with nothing more than a hurst short throw, and a dynomax cat back (this was at red river raceway). one weekend i couldnt pull off more than a 15.2 so we took the motor apart and found that my compression ring on the #1 cylinder was in 2 pieces. so time for a rebuild.

the car sat for a while, and when i decided to clean up the wiring harness and everything, i found several broken wires, dry rotting problems and decided to make the car more of a weekend warrior and ditch the EFI in favor of easier maintenance. Ill list my combo below for ya (isnt in the car yet, but will be shortly)

1991 LX
Stock block 302, bored & honed .030 over
Eagle Crank
Eagle Rods
TFS 10:1 Forged Pistons
TFS Stage 2 Cam
TFS Track Heat Heads (out of the box)
Scorpion 1.6 Rockers
TFS Pushrods
Melling Standard Volume Oil Pump
Double roller timing chain
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
Holley 650 DP
Mac 1 5/8 shorties
BBK h-pipe
Dynomax Bullets and dumps

As soon as i get the thing finished, and broken in, we will be going up to the track. if you register over at stangnet, send me a PM (under the same name) and ill let ya know when we will be going up there. Good luck with everything man!

ChocoTaco369

oh i was heated alright...

BLKWS.6

I do not know much about carbs, no offence taken. The reason I am going 750 DP is I want to see HOW MUCH of a change it makes. I have read that a 750 DP would do GREAT on my combo. Will it? I dunno, but I have one at my disposal and whats a few hours of time max? So I will try it and see, nothing lost if it runs worse. Anyways, PM sent. Also, gotta find time to do this, im working from 10-10AM/PM and am having MURDER finding time to even go get that 750 DP carb. (its about 45 minutes away from me now).
THe car should be faster for the combo, my tech is breathing down my neck to run 4.56 gears and slicks and dump at 4500. I agree with everything but 4.56's. But I still have a power issue and whats the point of a great launching car if its **** slow? I would LIKE to get my power issue sorted out before trying to make it a 60' machine.
Yeah, I removed my EFI stuff for driveability reasons and b/c noone withing 500 miles would tune it with any guarantee of success. The car is A LOT! more driveable now, if slower. I would rather have the convenience of carb if I can get my power issues sorted out. THat beign said, there is no way im going back EFI, no way. Period. And if someone wants a bunch of aftermarket EFI stuff, I am looking to sell everything that was on the car so as to re-coup some of my carb costs.

I would like around $1100 for my:Typhoon intake, 190lph fuel pump, steeda 24# inj., 75 mm Pro M MAF (calibrated to 24#'s), adj. FPR, edelbrock 70 MM tb, and if you want my old stock dizzy, that can go too.All parts are around 1-2 years old with 15K miles or so on them.

I have a 5" Autometer Tach as well with shift light, the factory tach does ok as I know its 500 rpm high exactly, and I just shift accordingly. The tach is for sale also. If it doesnt sell and I get bored it might go in.

3500# race weight, with me in it and 98mph trap=25X rwhp. I dunno how accurate that calculator is, but there is what it says. 102 trap=290whp or so. I feel like my car should trap 102-103. I also feel that 30-40 whp could be due to jetting/wrong carb setup, etc.

THX for the support of my rediculous X cam

boosted99camaro

iTrader: (3)

hey stanger I think there is a lot more in your car my 89 gt with headers exhaust and roller rockers everything else stock went 13.95 at 100 mph.
as for your carb a 750 is too big 600-650 would be more than enough.
check your plugs see if your rich, you can play with jets to get it right.
also did you dagree in your cam.years ago my friend put the x cam in his 302 and put it in 5 dagrees retarded thought it was straight up, anyway it ran good but was way down on power, we reset it at 0 and it ran like a raped ape.good luck with it.

FarBeyondDriven

i agree with him about the carb... as i said earlier, i think a 750 would be too big, but it takes a whole 30 minutes to swap then to see if maybe your carb is jetted all funky. i got your PM, and ill keep in touch.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i think a 750 will be too big also but with some tuning it will work.do some wot runs with your current carb and immediately shut the motor off and pull a few plugs and check them.i used to run a holley 750 dp and after buying a mighty demon 825 i will never own a holley again.

GXPPOWER

he 60ft isnt killing him he only trapped 97 mph............ either the 302 is a bitch or something is wrong but just isnt showing up.

BLKWS.6

my 60' supports my 1/8 mile ET and MPH and that in turn supports my 1/4 mile. The only thing I can think of is my secondaries arent really opening. Talked to my mechanic and he swears the 2 marks lined up on the cam timing when he put it in. I recall actually hearing/seeing this at the time. I will bolt on the 750 DP today and see what happens.

joewee350

We discussed that maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. What does everyone think about that? Possible?

BLKWS.6

My mechanic has poo-pooed that possibility and my dad leans against it. Also, my motot chops pretty hard and the guy who brought it up says that tthat would smooth one out, not chop it up. Also he said that the chan should not jump unless 100K+ miles. I dunno, lotta work, im hoping not, lol

slick1851

Why arent your GT40 heads ported???????????????????????????????????????

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Stanger was this a brand new motor and block? Id be concerned that if you are running too rich your piston rings might not seat correctly...I know you said you had good compression on each cylinder but if it is a new engine you def dont want to be flooding the thing with gas.

LS1 Sounds

iTrader: (11)

That's the least of his problems...

BLKWS.6

The motor has 15K miles on it. Rings...

Today I pulled the vac. line to the PCV and removed the breather and held my hand over the hole it went in...NOTHING. NOT AT ALL. The rings musta sealed damn near perfectly. I think I have a carb issue. THe 750 DP dumped TONNES of black smoke up top and STILL!!! spun the tires in the top of first from a 20mph punch (something my 670cfm also does on occasion) by about the same amount. THis tells me my 670 is performing up top like an oversized carb with way too much fuel. I think I have a tuning issue. I want to get rid of the 670 vac and run a 600-650 DP and have it professionally tuned using wideband and a dyno. That seems to be the best option. NOTHING BUT THE INDUCTION has changed during my EFI->carb swap and I used to hang with C5's and LS1 Z28 A4's from a roll (ok, not bad, at LEAST a 102-3 trap, which I should be getting at 3500# race weight and 290 whp--what I should have according to the company who built the motor).

Soooo...prolly getting a new DP by the end of the week and then having her tuned, $1-200 is worth it as I hear of guys making a LOT more after a good carb tuner twists the wrenches over it.

Comments? Suggestions? help? am I going in the wrong/right direction?

Proud2bSS

iTrader: (2)

Professional tuning should reveal alot about your present a/f, etc. Just to see what the wideband tells you will be a huge part.

Over caming/carbing cars has been around for decades. Hopefully, you will know which of those is creating the biggest problems, and what needs to be done to balance it out.

BLKWS.6

The only thing changeing was EFI to carb. If it was the cam, how did I hang with C5's and beat LS1 camaro's before hand? (I know they were actually racing b/c in both cases they wanted a look under my hood when we pulled over and were stunned). I blame the carb, its the only thing that changed.

BLKWS.6

well, ignition, but my timing is spot on and the MSD works quite well.

BLKWS.6

HOw much does professional dyno/carb tuning cost in my Area, Shreveport Bossier (for you locals)

300bhp/ton

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but when you swapped to carb from EFI did you notice any performance drop off.

I'm not certain, but I seem to remember you posting about the change to carb and you where pleased. But that wouldn't tally if you had a performance drop off.

Also hanging with C5 Corvettes? Well as a rule you'd need to trap better than 102mph to do that. So the fact you only trapped 97mph means a massive drop off in performance.

I'm sure your car should be performing better than it is, but when you hung with these other cars maybe they wheren't being driven all that well.

it's not to take anything away from you at all, but it really isn't all that hard to have a bad run on the street. Sure a C5 should run low 13's @ 105mph+ but that doesn't mean EVERY single time someone dirves a Corvette on the street that they get that performance from it.

I would guess there are more occasions when someone acheives an equiverlent to a 14 or 15 second run at under 100mph than they do to the cars full potential while racing on the street.

Too much wheel spin, a slow gear change. Not being smooth with the shifts, starting in the wrong gear.

Comparing your cars performance to others on the street and then assuming that was them at their best to then esitmate your cars potential is only ever going to result in dissapointment.

I've seen faster cars be beaten by comparitively slower cars on the street, both drivers would claim to be racing. I know this because I've done this.

Yet I don't believe for a single second that the slower car (my car in this instance) was actually faster than it should have been just because I beat a car that should have been faster.