Owned.
06-29-2006, 11:36 AM
#81
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Stanger88-
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
06-29-2006, 01:37 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by Car RamRod
That would just be a really expensive way of telling him where his a/f is at. Doesn't seem logical bc 1. he does not want to drop another dime into the car, and 2. it isn't a small or precise problem we are dealing with here, it is something drastic; on a good day that car could hit 14.1 with the stock engine.
It just doesn't seem like an appropriate solution to the problem at all.
It just doesn't seem like an appropriate solution to the problem at all.
06-29-2006, 01:39 PM
#84
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Originally Posted by COMNBYU
Stanger88-
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
06-29-2006, 03:18 PM
#85
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Since when? Last I talked to him I was under the impression he still had the AOD??
He still needs to get rid of those heads. With his set-up even with a 5sp mid/low 13's would be max.
I didn't read through all 5 five pages of bs just the first couple, but if he can't drive or conditions were horrible I could see him running 14's with his se current set up. Doesn't nessessarilly mean there's something wrong with his car.
He still needs to get rid of those heads. With his set-up even with a 5sp mid/low 13's would be max.
I didn't read through all 5 five pages of bs just the first couple, but if he can't drive or conditions were horrible I could see him running 14's with his se current set up. Doesn't nessessarilly mean there's something wrong with his car.
06-29-2006, 05:18 PM
#86
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Originally Posted by COMNBYU
Since when? Last I talked to him I was under the impression he still had the AOD??
Originally Posted by Stanger88
And here is what I wasted money on to get there.
TKO500 transmission
TKO500 transmission
06-29-2006, 06:47 PM
#87
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Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds
OK, I just wondered if you maybe were insinuating that a wideband wouldn't work because he was running a carb instead of EFI. Instead it was a cost vs. benefit ratio, thanks!
06-30-2006, 01:39 AM
#88
Bah, FINALLY FOUND MY PROBLEM. I got one of the best carb tuners in the area to come look at it. He drove it. Said only ONCE did he feel the secondaries begin to open...at the bottom of 2nd when he punched it at low RPM, but before they got anywhere NEAR fully open, he had to shift. The secondaries are controlled by airflow in the promaries. I have a 302. By the time I build the airflow (even w/lightest spring) to open the secondaries, I have to shift. Basically, he is saying I ran 14.4@98 on 2 barrels with the secondaries maybe cracking open JUST a tad.
He is looking for a used Demon 575 carb. Mechanical. Says with that and no tuning I should run a traction limited 13.7ish @102-104. He also has commited to tune it at the strip for me if I buy all the stuff and his entry fee...GOOD DEAL IMHO!!
That is why my off-the line is so awesome and why I have not really noticed the car being a total turd. Primaries give GREAT response and spin tires nice, but up top, im dead. No secondaries so to speak
He is looking for a used Demon 575 carb. Mechanical. Says with that and no tuning I should run a traction limited 13.7ish @102-104. He also has commited to tune it at the strip for me if I buy all the stuff and his entry fee...GOOD DEAL IMHO!!
That is why my off-the line is so awesome and why I have not really noticed the car being a total turd. Primaries give GREAT response and spin tires nice, but up top, im dead. No secondaries so to speak
06-30-2006, 01:42 AM
#89
Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
Stanger-
I know what you are going through. B4 i got my TA i had the slowest 96 - 98 gt ever made.
my car:
1997 Mustang GTS
GTS= No Rear Spoiler, No Fog Lights, No ABS, No Power Windows/Doors, No Leather, No Rear Defrost
Mods= BBK LTs + BBK O/R H Pipe + MagnaPack C/B, 4.10's, Cobra Axels, Steeda UD Pullies, 160* T-Stat, MSD Coil Packs, MSD 8.5 Wires, NGK Plugs, K&N, Removed Air Silencer, PI Intake, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Nitto DR's
the best i ran:
60ft: 1.87
1/4: 14.01
Speed:96.28 mph
man it was a dog. had no weight with great mods jsut could not do it.
then i got an LS1 and it was all over
I know what you are going through. B4 i got my TA i had the slowest 96 - 98 gt ever made.
my car:
1997 Mustang GTS
GTS= No Rear Spoiler, No Fog Lights, No ABS, No Power Windows/Doors, No Leather, No Rear Defrost
Mods= BBK LTs + BBK O/R H Pipe + MagnaPack C/B, 4.10's, Cobra Axels, Steeda UD Pullies, 160* T-Stat, MSD Coil Packs, MSD 8.5 Wires, NGK Plugs, K&N, Removed Air Silencer, PI Intake, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Nitto DR's
the best i ran:
60ft: 1.87
1/4: 14.01
Speed:96.28 mph
man it was a dog. had no weight with great mods jsut could not do it.
then i got an LS1 and it was all over
Well, I think I am going to ride this out and fix it. Pretty sure I found the cure. I plan on being back to pulling LS1's pretty soon, say the end of next week
06-30-2006, 01:46 AM
#90
Originally Posted by COMNBYU
Stanger88-
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
The biggest problem with your car is the AOD. Anyone and everyone can come on here and say what they want but it takes A LOT to make an AOD car run even 12's. All of my local Mustang buddies that have tried an AOD have all switched back to a Tremmec. I have personally seen a H/C carb'd 302 Mustang go from 12.0's all day long with a 5sp, to 13.6's with an AOD. And NOTHING else on the car was touched. Until you start making some serious power and are willing to spend a couple grand plus on a built auto, there's no reason at all to stay with an AOD if speed is what you'r interested in.
And don't listen to everyone sayiing how you should go back to EFI. Every local homebuilt Mustang I've seen around here has a carb, and they're the ones that run. People who run EFI on 5.0's either want a mostly stock Mustang to DD, OR have boatloads of money and what something seriously fast. It's just too easy to slap a carb on and go. I'm not saying it can't be done with EFI, but the stock ECU is just to tempermental to screw with for someone on a budget IMO.
My advice? Like I've already said get rid of those GT40's nad by ANY box stock alumin. heads. Switch to a 5sp. You can just about trade a Wendy's #4 for one around here. CIP they are CHEAP. get the heads/tranny and keep the cam, you'll then be able to make use of it. Top it off with a DP 750 and if you don't run solid 12's NA I'll personally let you e-kick me in the junk
Good luck!
I think my car should really pick up after I get a carb that can open the back barrels
Going mechanical. Read above posts. AOD's can be made fast, for about the same $$ I spent on a TKO-500. But I like banging gears. For a while, I considered a PA AOD with reverse valve body and a PI Stallion 3K stall converter. about a $3K combo, but I like banging the gears, as said Anywho, will post up after carb swap...again Time for a new toilet
06-30-2006, 05:27 AM
#91
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Originally Posted by Stanger88
He is looking for a used Demon 575 carb. Mechanical. Says with that and no tuning I should run a traction limited 13.7ish @102-104.
Originally Posted by Stanger88
I plan on being back to pulling LS1's pretty soon, say the end of next week
But high 13's @ 102mph isn't going to be pulling LS1's. It's just enough to keep pace with the 2.73 geared autos - just.
06-30-2006, 07:47 AM
#92
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True dat. When my 5.0 was trapping ~108, I pulled about 2 cars on an LS1 SS 6-speed. We had a very even start from a dig and through second, then I pulled about a car each in 3rd and 4th gears.
Glad you are onto the problem though!
Glad you are onto the problem though!
06-30-2006, 09:23 AM
#94
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Glad it looks like you've found the issue.
But high 13's @ 102mph isn't going to be pulling LS1's. It's just enough to keep pace with the 2.73 geared autos - just.
But high 13's @ 102mph isn't going to be pulling LS1's. It's just enough to keep pace with the 2.73 geared autos - just.
I lost by 1 car to a C5 (50-80), but pulled a 00' Z28 by 1 car (75-105) and for a little NA 302, thats good enuff' for me
06-30-2006, 10:01 AM
#95
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glad you got it ironed out man..... id say lets go back up to RR but after what happened to me im gonna wait till i get the 9in for it to be launching the 6 speed at the track, might give ya a buzz while im in town later during the 8th-23rd
06-30-2006, 09:48 PM
#99
Originally Posted by Stanger88
I lost by 1 car to a C5 (50-80), but pulled a 00' Z28 by 1 car (75-105) and for a little NA 302, thats good enuff' for me