Which slicks to use on public/dusty roads? Can't match AWD cars launch
#1
Which slicks to use on public/dusty roads? Can't match AWD cars launch
We in Latvia don't have special drag tracks, so events are made on public roads. Bought Trans Am this summer hoping to get some good results, but nothing - I can't put power to the ground on our dusty roads. Subarus are jumping few car lengths from the starts and that's all - can't catch them.
Car is manual, ~340whp. So far I have tried BFGoodrich GForce Drag Radials 315/45-R17, and MT ET Streets 10.5/26-R16. Both spin badly in 1st.
Please advise, how do I get this car to hook. I really like the Trans Am and don't want to buy some Subaru or DSM, but something has to be done.
What could I do to hook really good?
Thanx guys Hopefully you will help me to make my TA show everything it can and get the recognition this beautiful V8 deserves
Car is manual, ~340whp. So far I have tried BFGoodrich GForce Drag Radials 315/45-R17, and MT ET Streets 10.5/26-R16. Both spin badly in 1st.
Please advise, how do I get this car to hook. I really like the Trans Am and don't want to buy some Subaru or DSM, but something has to be done.
What could I do to hook really good?
Thanx guys Hopefully you will help me to make my TA show everything it can and get the recognition this beautiful V8 deserves
#7
Originally Posted by SonofaBish
If you can't hook with MT's, all hope is lost imho... if its that dusty and dirty, you're in trouble as far as hooking...
I agree, if you can't hook with the MT's, forget it.
Your need to prep the street.
Give a call over to Dr. Doom, tell him to clean the streets,
oops, sorry, he's in Latveria, not Latvia my bad.
Try varying the tire pressure,
are you doing a burn out,
good luck
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#9
Originally Posted by Sharpe
If his suspention is stock, then i don't see why we're giving up on him at all, 'speacially in an M6.
To all the others - some answers
I don't dump the clutch, this is not my first attempt in drag
I ride clutch so much during launches that on my Nissan it lasts only 5-7K miles
Suspension - it has:
-UMI Torque arm chassis mount with UMI Torque arm (don't know what it's for)
-Moser 12-bolt
-UMI Panhard bar (don't know what it is)
-Spohn LCAs (don't know what it is)
-WS6 springs
-Bilstein HD shocks
#10
Originally Posted by SonofaBish
If you can't hook with MT's, all hope is lost imho... if its that dusty and dirty, you're in trouble as far as hooking...
But I want to improve the situation Don't want to go into 2-liter AWDs
Would I get better traction with wider tires? I mean much wider, not 10.5 with some ~9 inch tread, but some 15+ inch wide MT Drags.
#13
Originally Posted by Vetal
What is this?
But anyway, I doubt owner will let to do that.
But anyway, I doubt owner will let to do that.
http://72.10.43.141/trackbite.htm
It'll help everybody that launches from the same position and won't destroy the road so the owner shouldn't have a problem.
#14
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Originally Posted by Vetal
Suspension - it has:
-UMI Torque arm chassis mount with UMI Torque arm (don't know what it's for)
-Moser 12-bolt
-UMI Panhard bar (don't know what it is)
-Spohn LCAs (don't know what it is)
-WS6 springs
-Bilstein HD shocks
-UMI Torque arm chassis mount with UMI Torque arm (don't know what it's for)
-Moser 12-bolt
-UMI Panhard bar (don't know what it is)
-Spohn LCAs (don't know what it is)
-WS6 springs
-Bilstein HD shocks
#17
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Originally Posted by Vetal
What's wrong with the suspension?
#19
Are these races in a strait line only? How long are they?
I definitely would not give up just yet. The trick is to get as much weight onto those rear wheels as quickly as possible. If turning is not a huge issue, some soft springs up front and smaller/lighter wheels in front will help you. By running softer springs you allow the front to raise up more, which helps the weight sit on the rear wheels.
And a burnout before the race will help tremendously in some cases. If you can do the burnout right at the point where you will launch from, you will get some help there. A line lock or something might help you with this.
Secondarily, 340WHP should let you catch back up pretty quickly on a lot of basic turbo 4s. Run longer races where your cars natural abilities are used. Then use a 100 shot
400WHP will definitely surprise a lot of STi and Evo guys on a decent length race.
I definitely would not give up just yet. The trick is to get as much weight onto those rear wheels as quickly as possible. If turning is not a huge issue, some soft springs up front and smaller/lighter wheels in front will help you. By running softer springs you allow the front to raise up more, which helps the weight sit on the rear wheels.
And a burnout before the race will help tremendously in some cases. If you can do the burnout right at the point where you will launch from, you will get some help there. A line lock or something might help you with this.
Secondarily, 340WHP should let you catch back up pretty quickly on a lot of basic turbo 4s. Run longer races where your cars natural abilities are used. Then use a 100 shot
400WHP will definitely surprise a lot of STi and Evo guys on a decent length race.