K-Member Install Cost
11-25-2008, 05:05 PM
#22
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I would guess to have some do all the work and parts 3000$. To get it right. I hope I am wrong. I it is not to offen. U took a good hit in a bad place.
11-25-2008, 05:07 PM
#23
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11-25-2008, 06:26 PM
#24
He means the whole setup not just the k member. I had the same thing happened to me and i bent my k member, lower control arm and spindle. I did all the work so it cost 50 bucks for and alignment. Its not that hard to do all the works. It suxs doing it on ur back in ur drive way. Good luck man
11-26-2008, 07:29 AM
#26
I forgot to wish you good luck also, when I was here yesterday. Actually, I don't think you'd want a stronger spindle. Look at it this way, a spindle that will hold up in normal driving, yet bends in extreme impact acts as a "fuse". It bends, absorbs energy, and prevents damage to the K-member and unit-body. It's also easier and cheaper to replace just a spindle.
11-26-2008, 02:38 PM
#27
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Frame shop called and said to come in Friday morning, they'll have more time to put it up on the lift and properly dianose it.
The wait continues
The wait continues
11-27-2008, 08:04 PM
#29
I cant speak for tubular k-member for a ls1 camaro but in my 3rd gen when i did it i left the motor in the car. they do make a tool that can support your motor from the top so it doesnt have to come out the car. I had to use this tool twice once for the k-member in my 3rd gen and once for doing the trans in my grand prix so it does work on a variety of different applications.... But the point is depending on how mechanically inclined you are you can do it yourself and the motor doesnt have to come out the car.
11-27-2008, 08:19 PM
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I cant speak for tubular k-member for a ls1 camaro but in my 3rd gen when i did it i left the motor in the car. they do make a tool that can support your motor from the top so it doesnt have to come out the car. I had to use this tool twice once for the k-member in my 3rd gen and once for doing the trans in my grand prix so it does work on a variety of different applications.... But the point is depending on how mechanically inclined you are you can do it yourself and the motor doesnt have to come out the car.
11-28-2008, 08:13 AM
#31
I had the same thought cause at the time mine was a daily too... what i end up doing besides putting lock tite on every bolt i checked every bolt for tightness almost everyday for a week. But definatly know what you mean... Plan the project before you start and keep your computer up and running during and always get before pictures to compare.
11-28-2008, 01:51 PM
#32
A couple of ways to look at it...You could pay someone to do the work, and a mistake could still be made. Then you'd be upset, and say, "Why didn't I do it myself, so it was done right"... Or if you did it yourself, even if you make a small mistake, it will be a learning experience, plus, there's nobody to blame but yourself. Live and learn.
I think the hardest part of the job would be supporting the car while you slid the K-member out. You could rent a cherry picker to support the engine while you dropped everything else out with a floor jack, with a 12-14" section of 2x10 wood on the jack's pad.
11-28-2008, 02:33 PM
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A couple of ways to look at it...You could pay someone to do the work, and a mistake could still be made. Then you'd be upset, and say, "Why didn't I do it myself, so it was done right"... Or if you did it yourself, even if you make a small mistake, it will be a learning experience, plus, there's nobody to blame but yourself. Live and learn.
I think the hardest part of the job would be supporting the car while you slid the K-member out. You could rent a cherry picker to support the engine while you dropped everything else out with a floor jack, with a 12-14" section of 2x10 wood on the jack's pad.
I think the hardest part of the job would be supporting the car while you slid the K-member out. You could rent a cherry picker to support the engine while you dropped everything else out with a floor jack, with a 12-14" section of 2x10 wood on the jack's pad.
The only thing that scares me about changing the K-Member on my own is the fear of the damn car falling on me. I've done headers on 2 cars, and its pretty freaking scary when you need to raise the car as high as you can get it just to slide the ******* header in. If I had a lift, no way in hell would I pay someone.
11-28-2008, 06:45 PM
#35
So the car is at the frame shop, they are trying to get it up on the frame machine today or Monday morning. Its going to cost me $250 for them to check all the specs. If the specs come back good, they said it will narrow down my problem to either a bent suspension part, shitty alignment, or where the suspension mounts to. They said at the minimum I'll most likely have to change the K-Member.
The only thing that scares me about changing the K-Member on my own is the fear of the damn car falling on me. I've done headers on 2 cars, and its pretty freaking scary when you need to raise the car as high as you can get it just to slide the ******* header in. If I had a lift, no way in hell would I pay someone.
The only thing that scares me about changing the K-Member on my own is the fear of the damn car falling on me. I've done headers on 2 cars, and its pretty freaking scary when you need to raise the car as high as you can get it just to slide the ******* header in. If I had a lift, no way in hell would I pay someone.
Very true. But I would look at it this way...If you have a good flat floor to work on, that a big plus. After that, if you get the rear of the car SOLIDLY spported on some serious jack stands, and get some sold supports under the front subframe rails you should be OK to move forward.
I would unbolt the motor mounts, and support the weight of the engine with either a cherry picker, or as poster "a383z" mentioned, one of the cradles that goes across the engine bay. At that point, especially if you choose the cherry picker, you've got a LOT of the weight off the front of the car, and supported independantly. The rest of the car, the rear, should then be pretty stable.
Unbolt the front spindles, then the lower a-arms and shocks, and even more of the weight is removed. Then drop the K-member with a floor jack.
I installed poly body mount biscuits on a '77 Trans Am I used to own. I had to unbolt the front subframe from the rear body section of the car to do it. I left the engine in place, and even left the front clip sheet metal in place. It was tedious and a little tricky, but I managed to do it by myself.
11-29-2008, 06:19 AM
#36
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Good news guys, frame shop called late yesterday and said the car was ready. Even better news he said the frame is in perfect shape and the only item out of whack is the crossmember. He believes changing the crossmember and lower a-arms will solve the problem 
11-29-2008, 10:20 PM
#37
The K-Member install really isn't that difficult if you're mechanically inclined and have a decently equipped garage. I did a K-Member, wheel bearings, upper and lower A arms in a weekend (mine's a daily driver also). Here's the places you could get burned...
Bolts seizing in the upper A-Arm bushings and you end up having to cut them out or grind them off.
The rear bolt that goes into the lower A-Arm sieizing in the bushing. See above.
I ended up replacing the upper and lower A-Arm mounting bolts on both sides.
If your brake lines are ratty be prepared to replace them if they break during the install. Have extra tubing and a flaring tool handy.
You'll probably need a buddy available to help line up the new K-member. It can be a bit of a PITA. Don't be surprised if you have to pull and pry a bit. Also the friend will come in handy when you're trying to get the motor mount bolts back in.
I realize the proper way to do it is to support the engine from the top when you pull the old K-member. I did mine redneck style. 2x6 cut to a decent size square between the oil pan and a floor jack, loosen the mounts and jack the engine up just till you see the mounting bolts wiggle. You're good from there on out.
Hope you get it all sorted.
Bolts seizing in the upper A-Arm bushings and you end up having to cut them out or grind them off.
The rear bolt that goes into the lower A-Arm sieizing in the bushing. See above.
I ended up replacing the upper and lower A-Arm mounting bolts on both sides.
If your brake lines are ratty be prepared to replace them if they break during the install. Have extra tubing and a flaring tool handy.
You'll probably need a buddy available to help line up the new K-member. It can be a bit of a PITA. Don't be surprised if you have to pull and pry a bit. Also the friend will come in handy when you're trying to get the motor mount bolts back in.
I realize the proper way to do it is to support the engine from the top when you pull the old K-member. I did mine redneck style. 2x6 cut to a decent size square between the oil pan and a floor jack, loosen the mounts and jack the engine up just till you see the mounting bolts wiggle. You're good from there on out.
Hope you get it all sorted.
12-06-2008, 07:26 AM
#40
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