ChocoTaco369

So I'm thinking about doing my first suspension mod to my car. I wasn't planning on doing it quite yet, but with UMI's killer sale going on right now (20% off and free shipping, can't beat that!), I feel obligated to get a part now to save money in the long run. The question is, what should I do first?

Honestly, what I really want is a torque arm, but I don't have the money for both a torque arm AND a relocation bracket (I don't want to put a more rigid torque arm on the tailshaft). I also have NO interest in a shock tower brace or subframe connectors, so don't even bother trying to talk me into that I couldn't care less about handling through curves at this point. So, I've narrowed my first suspension part down to two:

LCA's with relocation kit or a panhard rod. And here's why:

After I swapped out the 2.73's for 3.42's, I'm getting wheel hop. I've never had wheel hop before, and I'd like to try and minimize it (I know shocks are probably the ultimate answer, but I'm not spending nearly a grand on shocks right now). Also, on the 1-2 shift, I'm having my rear end kick out to the side. Obviously, the LCA's with relocation kit will help with wheel hop and I believe the panhard rod will help correct the rear end kicking out to the side on the 1-2 shift. The question is, what would probably be my best solution? I'm also putting a Transgo HD-2C kit in soon, so I'm sure my traction issues on the 1-2 shift will only get worse.

If I go LCA's, I'm not sure which kind to get. I don't know a whole lot about them. I know I don't want rod ends - I'll go with poly/poly bushings since it's pretty much an all street car and I'm looking for max longevity. I'd like to add that I NEVER plan on being lowered and I still have the stock 10-bolt. Is it worth looking into adjustable LCA's or will non-adjustable LCA's work just fine? Also, how necessary are the relocation brackets? I've read that even on stock ride height vehicles, changing the angle of the LCA's actually help the wheel hop and traction issues better than the LCA's themselves. I don't know how true that is. The non-adjustables are also a lot cheaper than the adjustables so if I don't need them, that's just fine with me.

If I go with a panhard rod, I'd also be going poly/poly. How much does this mod really help traction? I believe the panhard rod should help the rear from kicking out, but will it do anything for wheel hop? I've never messed with suspension parts before so I don't know much about them.

Also, how hard is the install for both? I can't imagine it being that difficult, but you never know. Thanks in advance!

Dark Shadow

try the watts link that should do alot more than any you have listed. search for it theres some good read ups about it

ChocoTaco369

Yea but that thing is $650. My idea here is to both take advantage of the UMI sale and not spend more than ~$150. I really don't have the funds to do anything better than that at the moment. Plus, I gotta pay to have the Transgo kit installed, so my wallet isn't going to be happy with me as it is after Christmas

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

i say do the strano sway bars or shocks and springs. shocks will make a huge difference in the handling of your car

ChocoTaco369

Again, I'm trying to take advantage of the UMI sale and not spend more than ~$150. I really don't care about handling or cornering. I just need to fix traction and wheel hop issues.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

CT,

LCA's help with wheelhop much more than a PHB will. An Adj. PHB just lets you center the wheels underneath the car (side to side) which is usually only needed when you lower. LCA relo brackets are also usually only needed when lowering so I would prolly just suggest you look into some 1LE bushings at most instead of the whole shebang. Save you a little more $$$ for Xmas But since you are as far as I can tell stock your problem is really prolly shocks.

I know I sound like a Strano but I am sure he could give you the best advice. Me thinks shocks first though so you don't throw money away on stuff you don't really need. Mine were junk when they came off at 62k and one wouldn't even rebound at all

Flaring Afro

strano has said that the subframes actually help with launching and keeping the car stable, not just for cornering. i'd reconsider them. they're an all around upgrade (besides weight). idk if any of what you asked help more than subframes, just saying.

also, i thought the umi torque arm can connect to the 3 point subframe? dont quote me on that. but it would make it easier for you to upgrade the torque arm when you want to, if that is true.

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

lower control arms with brackets should do fine for what you want to spend.

00cls1camaross

iTrader: (10)

I did BMR LCAs and Brackets right after a lid and exhaust. I have never ever had wheel hop. I would go with some LCAs and Brackets. I have the ones that are poly/rubber bushings on the highest bolt.

cals400ex

iTrader: (27)

i wouldn't get the LCA's unless you were going to get the relocation brackets. by just swapping LCA's we do not notice a difference in traction. the relocation brackets did help though. i would get the poly/poly in adjustable if it was me. even the poly ones tend to make more noise than stock so be prepared for that if it happens, which it doesn't always. i know you said you really wanted a torque arm. you could always get a torque arm not and leave it mounted to the tranny until you can get can afford the relocation bracket. i would not get a panhard bar in your situation unless for some reason the wheels were not centered properly after changing some suspension products. we also noticed a significant difference in traction by just swapping out stock rear shocks with kyb agx ones. i know these aren't the best but i would definatly do it again. in our case the shocks and the relocation brackets helped the most for traction. i don't have any time on the torque arm yet so i can't comment on that.

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

My vote is for the LCA's without the relocation brackets. I am curious why most people voted that you need the relocation brackets, my first question is, how hard do you launch that causes wheel hop? And secondly how often do you get on it that hard? I have dont the a4-m6 swap and 4.11s and i have no wheel hop atall. However i have an adjustable torque arm, and im lowered with no relocation brackets so my LCA's are pointed up instead of down and i still have no hop. Probably due to the torque arm. If you were more open to it i would go for the torque arm in your case, simply because once you get that you could take it somewhat easier until you get a relocation kit for that. But for now i voted for LCA's.

ChocoTaco369

I'm personally feeling the LCA's with relocation brackets myself. I'm happy to see most people agree with that assessment.

I can stab the throttle less than half way and get wheel hop. It's a very unsettling feeling, like I'm driving over little itty bitty speed bumps quickly. I'd like to get rid of it or at least minimize it. I don't drive very hard, but it's mainly because I can't launch at all. My traction sucks.

As for adjustable vs. non-adjustable LCA's, what's truly the point of paying extra for adjustable? Again, I'm not going to lower the car and I have the stock rear. Is it really worth spending the extra $50 on the adjustables and if it is, why?

Also, for the relocation brackets, is it best to get the bolt-ins or the weld-ins?

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

Alot of people will tell you to get the weld in brackets because they say the bolt on ones loosen over time. As far as adjustable ones go, im not sure if you would need them or not. I would almost assume you would need them since when you use them in conjunction with the relocation brackets your moving them out of their stock location so you may or may not need to chance the length of the control arm. Might need to do some research on the subject.

ChocoTaco369

I guess the ultimate solution would be to call UMI about it. Maybe they'll reply to this thread

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

Yeah but you would hafta wait until monday to talk to them. When does their sale end? Sunday or monday? I hope you get to speak to them before their sale ends

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I just got my relocation brackets on and I purchased the UMI Adj. LCAs and PHB

kierstyn

iTrader: (5)

Its up to you in the end but I always suggest getting the adjustable stuff one day you will wish you had! I ended up with a non adjustable phb and took the cushions off the rear springs and had to sell the phb to get an adjustable one to center the rear. So in my opinion its worth the extra few bucks for the adjustable stuff.

ChocoTaco369

Do you detect a difference in traction or wheel hop? Did you go for the weld-in or bolt-in relocation brackets?

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

I'd do SFCs first. I had mine in the garage about a week before I had even bought the car But from your list, LCA's for sure. And get those brackets, may as well do it while you're in there, as you can always use the stock setting if you desire. I hook best using the middle slot. I tried the lowest first, but it didn't work anywhere near as good as the middle. Amazing how much just that little angle can change

Here's the order I did mine. You don't have to spend a whole bunch on the rear suspension of these cars, and it makes such a difference

SFCs (bmr)
remove front swaybar
LCAs /w brackets (bmr, middle slot)
cheapo 50/50 rear drag shocks (comp engineering)
panhard rod (bmr)
th350 crossmember with torque arm mount (and the arm of course) (bmr)
rear sway (bmr)

Car hooks great on the street, and I have no wheel hop problem at all. The only problem is the decaying 10 bolt

ChocoTaco369

^^^Did you get the bolt-in or weld-in brackets?