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opinons on these rotors?

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Old 12-03-2008, 10:41 AM
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I can't make that recommendation for you. Both are excellent quality rotors, not made god-knows-where junk. You can't go wrong either way.

You have to decide based on whether or not you want the look of the ATE's, or the coating, or not. If not, go Brembo which cost a bit less. The value with the coating added, and structural integrity of the ATE's is superior for a slotted rotor. They cost a lot less then slotted Brembo's do, and don't give up a lick of durability and are IMO superior to the more deeply slotted, and sharp cornered slots of the Brembo Slotteds.

Comes down to blank vs. ATE slotted in the end. Neither is bad, neither is "better". Take your pick. I carry both.
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Old 12-03-2008, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I can't make that recommendation for you. Both are excellent quality rotors, not made god-knows-where junk. You can't go wrong either way.

You have to decide based on whether or not you want the look of the ATE's, or the coating, or not. If not, go Brembo which cost a bit less. The value with the coating added, and structural integrity of the ATE's is superior for a slotted rotor. They cost a lot less then slotted Brembo's do, and don't give up a lick of durability and are IMO superior to the more deeply slotted, and sharp cornered slots of the Brembo Slotteds.

Comes down to blank vs. ATE slotted in the end. Neither is bad, neither is "better". Take your pick. I carry both.
your not helping me! lol. on your car what would you be using. its just a street car, only track time is 1/4 mile.
Old 12-03-2008, 06:51 PM
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Whatever I happened to have on my shelf at the time I needed them.
Sorry, don't mean to confuse you. If you don't care, then run the less costly Brembo's!!!!
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Old 12-03-2008, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ls2 bait
your not helping me! lol. on your car what would you be using. its just a street car, only track time is 1/4 mile.
From what I gather, the performance is the same. If you want the ATE's, you're only paying for the looks, nothing more. If you like the looks and the looks alone are worth the extra money, get the ATE's. Otherwise, save your money and get the Brembo's.
Old 12-03-2008, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
Why not go for these instead?

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1598

They're pretty popular.

One of the sponsors, I believe BSI Brakes, sells a whole package for $299 - cryogenically hardened rotors (drilled/slotted or just slotted) with Hawk HPS pads. I think for another $50 he gives you stainless steel braided brake lines. Check him out.
Ive used these for about 15k miles now with no problems. I have the slotted only rotors.
Old 12-04-2008, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ls2 bait
your not helping me! lol. on your car what would you be using. its just a street car, only track time is 1/4 mile.
If you want the coated ones get ATE's. If you don't care about a little rust on the hat, get Brembo's
Old 12-04-2008, 02:28 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...brake-faq.html

And read about the drilled or slotted rotors... Towards the bottom of the page

-Mark
Old 12-04-2008, 02:35 PM
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Not all of that is 100% accurate. For instance it's pretty vague and lumps a lot of various "slotted" rotors together when it says they will eat pads. Some can if they are not chamfered correctly.

A quality rotor like an ATE isn't going to act like a cheese-grater on your rotor. Cheap rotors that warp and have sharp edges to the slots can as you can catch the edge of the pad on the edge of a slot. But a good true rotor surfact with precision slots (vs. some guy banging holes in cheap rotors and selling them as premium parts) won't give you a hassle.

And fwiw, racing does have more performance oriented uses for slotting. However, if the slots ate pads that badly you'd not find rotors like that on endurance road-racing cars....

I ask everyone to take pretty much anything they read on web (no matter who it comes from) to take the information as information, not gospel. There are various details that can make something regarded are right (or wrong) suddenly wrong (or right).
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Old 12-04-2008, 02:48 PM
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And I completely agree.

But the OP was looking for a new rotor that would last longer than the set he has now. And considering his already cracked and slotted and drilled is USUALLY for racing and extreme duty. His application doesnt really apply...
Old 12-04-2008, 04:55 PM
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Got ya... Just wanted to kick that out as often "stickies" are taken as 100% gospel.

For the record, in general--

The biggest issue with cheap rotors is they are more prone to warping, and if they are drilled and/or slotted that means more prone to cracking. And cheaper rotors are generally cheaper because they are made from less tough metal (and often less of it).

The inferior grade metal, along with less mass to absorb heat is what causes cheap rotors to be cheap. And what causes them to wear faster (even if they don't warp).

Think about the pounding brakes take. As much power as a Bugatti Veyron has (1001+ HP) and AWD. It takes 119 feet to do a 0-60 in 2.5 seconds. That's a car that run a 1/4 mile in 10.1 seconds @ 142mph....

Meanwhile our cars stop from 60 in a distance not much more that than the 119 feet it takes that SUPER powerful car to get to 60 mph. Think about how much braking horsepower the brakes give you. All that abuse and is put through the rotors.

There are cheap brakes, just like cheap tires, or cheap gas, or cheap spark plugs, or cheap anything else.....
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:59 PM
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No I understand lol.

So wouldnt an OEM grade replacemnet rotor work just fine? Even if that rotor saw the occasional auto-x or time attack
Old 12-04-2008, 08:02 PM
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A good rotor is a good rotor. The trouble is not all the rotors out there are good. And meeting OE spec doesn't mean much because most of us know the stock front rotors are very prone to warping.
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Old 12-04-2008, 08:34 PM
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well from all this it looks like the brembos are boring to look at but are better for what i use the car for. and this car makes 730 rwhp so its going a good click on the top end and it has to stop.
Old 12-05-2008, 10:29 AM
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That's what I'm trying to tell you.... Because the ATE's aren't p.o.s. rotors, and the slots aren't done like everyone else does, you aren't giving up anything in terms for performance (well such a small bit of swept area that you'd never notice).

Pick the one you prefer. They'll both work just as well as the other.
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Old 12-07-2008, 09:31 PM
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well i def like the idea of the coating. so the brembos will likely rust like stockers unless they are painted?
Old 12-07-2008, 09:57 PM
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Yes, the Brembo blanks will rust.
Old 12-07-2008, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
Why not go for these instead?

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=1598

They're pretty popular.

One of the sponsors, I believe BSI Brakes, sells a whole package for $299 - cryogenically hardened rotors (drilled/slotted or just slotted) with Hawk HPS pads. I think for another $50 he gives you stainless steel braided brake lines. Check him out.
+2 on the ones on that link
Old 12-07-2008, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bboyxclub
+2 on the ones on that link
ive already done the budget rotors and they are comin apart on me. im going to use a quality rotor this time.
Old 12-08-2008, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ls2 bait
ive already done the budget rotors and they are comin apart on me. im going to use a quality rotor this time.
So which one are you defenitly going with??? Link??

Thanks
Old 12-08-2008, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bboyxclub
So which one are you defenitly going with??? Link??

Thanks
i think i decided on the ate simply for the coating. i dont want any rusty **** on my car.



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