Rate my suspension choice
#1
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So now that I have my cam its time to get traction, my car is a 2002 camaro z28 400rwhp......
currently have
stock shocks
bmr lowering springs
umi -stb
front sway bar removed
rear sway bar-stock
lca,phb,ta-stock
bf goodrich drag radials
my plan is to get the following suspension parts
UMI adjustable poly/rod lca's-2016c
UMI phb adjustable poly/rod-2022
UMI boxed weld in sfc-2000
BMR extreme rear anti-roll bar
Bilstein slp HD shocks
Im holding off on the TA and relocation brackets til I get a 12bolt,this will be on a car that gets driven about 3 times week and sees the track 2-4times a year. What do you guys think? how would this combo work together on the street/strip?
currently have
stock shocks
bmr lowering springs
umi -stb
front sway bar removed
rear sway bar-stock
lca,phb,ta-stock
bf goodrich drag radials
my plan is to get the following suspension parts
UMI adjustable poly/rod lca's-2016c
UMI phb adjustable poly/rod-2022
UMI boxed weld in sfc-2000
BMR extreme rear anti-roll bar
Bilstein slp HD shocks
Im holding off on the TA and relocation brackets til I get a 12bolt,this will be on a car that gets driven about 3 times week and sees the track 2-4times a year. What do you guys think? how would this combo work together on the street/strip?
Last edited by GMmexican; 12-25-2008 at 06:35 PM.
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look at this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...eat-price.html
i know he is going to have a group purchese soon. and also a panhard bar.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...eat-price.html
i know he is going to have a group purchese soon. and also a panhard bar.
#9
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The only thing worse than your choice of future suspension is the current one. Specifically, Bilsteins are NOT for lowering springs, unless they are Stranos revalves. Stock shocks + lowering springs? I'd rather walk than ride in that car. It may work at the strip (or not) but I shudder to guess what the (lack of) ride quality is like. Shocks will do as much for your car - in every situation - as all the other items you have listed, they did on mine. If you're drag racing, why no torque arm?
You really don't know what you are missing and it may not get much better without properly matched dampers.
If I had to do it over, with your parameters:
1. Koni shocks
2. UMI LCAs + PHB
3. UMI torque arm
Put a damn front sway bar on that car, even if it's stock. You've got a really crappy handling car, probably borderline dangerous.
Ever try the SEARCH button? You have gotten horrible advice/done terrible research and made all the wrong choices in the worst possible order. I give it a 2 out of 10, only because you put a decent tire on the back. Overall, a horrible assembly of hodpodge, mis-matched, and low quality parts.
Sorry, man, you asked.
You really don't know what you are missing and it may not get much better without properly matched dampers.
If I had to do it over, with your parameters:
1. Koni shocks
2. UMI LCAs + PHB
3. UMI torque arm
Put a damn front sway bar on that car, even if it's stock. You've got a really crappy handling car, probably borderline dangerous.
Ever try the SEARCH button? You have gotten horrible advice/done terrible research and made all the wrong choices in the worst possible order. I give it a 2 out of 10, only because you put a decent tire on the back. Overall, a horrible assembly of hodpodge, mis-matched, and low quality parts.
Sorry, man, you asked.
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The only thing worse than your choice of future suspension is the current one. Specifically, Bilsteins are NOT for lowering springs, unless they are Stranos revalves. Stock shocks + lowering springs? I'd rather walk than ride in that car. It may work at the strip (or not) but I shudder to guess what the (lack of) ride quality is like. Shocks will do as much for your car - in every situation - as all the other items you have listed, they did on mine. If you're drag racing, why no torque arm?
You really don't know what you are missing and it may not get much better without properly matched dampers.
If I had to do it over, with your parameters:
1. Koni shocks
2. UMI LCAs + PHB
3. UMI torque arm
Put a damn front sway bar on that car, even if it's stock. You've got a really crappy handling car, probably borderline dangerous.
Ever try the SEARCH button? You have gotten horrible advice/done terrible research and made all the wrong choices in the worst possible order. I give it a 2 out of 10, only because you put a decent tire on the back. Overall, a horrible assembly of hodpodge, mis-matched, and low quality parts.
Sorry, man, you asked.
You really don't know what you are missing and it may not get much better without properly matched dampers.
If I had to do it over, with your parameters:
1. Koni shocks
2. UMI LCAs + PHB
3. UMI torque arm
Put a damn front sway bar on that car, even if it's stock. You've got a really crappy handling car, probably borderline dangerous.
Ever try the SEARCH button? You have gotten horrible advice/done terrible research and made all the wrong choices in the worst possible order. I give it a 2 out of 10, only because you put a decent tire on the back. Overall, a horrible assembly of hodpodge, mis-matched, and low quality parts.
Sorry, man, you asked.
I did list a torque arm, and im also going with umi lca's,pbh, yes i want it to go fast in a straight line, the handling right now is fine....what low quality parts am I using? since my car's suspension is mostly stock...... I was planning on going with slp bilsteins, since konis are 2 expensive
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Koni's are too expensive? Look at the rest of your list.... Not exactly a total of $10 in upgrades.
Those that think Koni's are too expensive frankly haven't had the pleasure to see the difference. Somehow I don't think you'd team mismatched heads and cam, or run a 12-bolt with a 3.08 gear because they just don't work right. But yet you are ok with running shocks that aren't meant for lowering springs like you have because what's better is too expensive.
That said, if you insist on running around with no front bar on the car, let alone a huge rear swaybar the suspension will never work as it should anyway.
Those that think Koni's are too expensive frankly haven't had the pleasure to see the difference. Somehow I don't think you'd team mismatched heads and cam, or run a 12-bolt with a 3.08 gear because they just don't work right. But yet you are ok with running shocks that aren't meant for lowering springs like you have because what's better is too expensive.
That said, if you insist on running around with no front bar on the car, let alone a huge rear swaybar the suspension will never work as it should anyway.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
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So now that I have my cam its time to get traction, my car is a 2002 camaro z28 400rwhp......
currently have
stock shocks
bmr lowering springs
umi -stb
front sway bar removed
rear sway bar-stock
lca,phb,ta-stock
bf goodrich drag radials
my plan is to get the following suspension parts
UMI adjustable poly/rod lca's-2016c
UMI phb adjustable poly/rod-2022
UMI boxed weld in sfc-2000
BMR extreme rear anti-roll bar
Bilstein slp HD shocks
Im holding off on the TA and relocation brackets til I get a 12bolt,this will be on a car that gets driven about 3 times week and sees the track 2-4times a year. What do you guys think? how would this combo work together on the street/strip?
currently have
stock shocks
bmr lowering springs
umi -stb
front sway bar removed
rear sway bar-stock
lca,phb,ta-stock
bf goodrich drag radials
my plan is to get the following suspension parts
UMI adjustable poly/rod lca's-2016c
UMI phb adjustable poly/rod-2022
UMI boxed weld in sfc-2000
BMR extreme rear anti-roll bar
Bilstein slp HD shocks
Im holding off on the TA and relocation brackets til I get a 12bolt,this will be on a car that gets driven about 3 times week and sees the track 2-4times a year. What do you guys think? how would this combo work together on the street/strip?
The choice of parts are the correct parts but since your going to use our anti roll bar you might as well use our lca's, frame connectors and panhard bar.
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BMR and UMI are both great products, you're not going to go wrong with either. Where you are going wrong is Bilsteins with lowering springs. That's a horrible choice, for any purpose, as the valving doesn't match. Bilstein revalves will get you there, or switch back to stock springs, or get the Konis a pair at a time. Your current choice is the wrong one, for any application.
The low quality parts I am referring to are the stock ones, specifically the shocks, but also the torque arm, LCA, and PHB. Handling and ride quality are subjective and you won't know any different until you:
a. swap to good parts, properly matched, or
b. ride in a car with good, properly matched parts.
Your suspension is no longer even close to stock, most of your components are modified, worn out, or removed. Your STB, SFCs, removing the sway bar, and lowering springs either didn't help a thing or actually hurt performance and safety. You should have done shocks first, period.
Where you are really off the mark is that you're making bad decisions and ignoring good advice. This is reducing your enjoyment and safety in the car. Trust those of us who have been there.
Shocks affect EVERY dynamic of your car: comfort, handling, lateral grip, and traction from a dig. You will find that changing to GOOD shocks (Bilsteins are only decent) will only benefit EVERY aspect, maybe to the point that you won't need the other items you have listed. Have you even added all this money up? You're spending a helluva lot on all this stuff, more than the cost of Konis. Don't be short sighted, you're only hurting yourself.
Go ahead on down the wrong path, you seem hell bent on it anyway. I hope you don't ride in a well set up car or you'll see how far off you are.
The low quality parts I am referring to are the stock ones, specifically the shocks, but also the torque arm, LCA, and PHB. Handling and ride quality are subjective and you won't know any different until you:
a. swap to good parts, properly matched, or
b. ride in a car with good, properly matched parts.
Your suspension is no longer even close to stock, most of your components are modified, worn out, or removed. Your STB, SFCs, removing the sway bar, and lowering springs either didn't help a thing or actually hurt performance and safety. You should have done shocks first, period.
Where you are really off the mark is that you're making bad decisions and ignoring good advice. This is reducing your enjoyment and safety in the car. Trust those of us who have been there.
Shocks affect EVERY dynamic of your car: comfort, handling, lateral grip, and traction from a dig. You will find that changing to GOOD shocks (Bilsteins are only decent) will only benefit EVERY aspect, maybe to the point that you won't need the other items you have listed. Have you even added all this money up? You're spending a helluva lot on all this stuff, more than the cost of Konis. Don't be short sighted, you're only hurting yourself.
Go ahead on down the wrong path, you seem hell bent on it anyway. I hope you don't ride in a well set up car or you'll see how far off you are.
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You read my original post wrong The only suspension mods I currently have are- UMI stb,BMR lowering springs everything else is stock. The other parts I listed are parts Im thinking about on getting, the goal is to make my car a good street/strip car at a reasonable price. Im considering re-valved bilsteins right now.
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Your suspension is no longer even close to stock, most of your components are modified, worn out, or removed. Your STB, SFCs, removing the sway bar, and lowering springs either didn't help a thing or actually hurt performance and safety. You should have done shocks first, period.
.
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Front sway bar removal is for the track and weight reduction
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All good chioces I guess, except for SLP HD shocks because I don't think they have the ideal dampening from what I've heard from the experts. Id get Konis or KYB's if you don't want to spend money to dampen them well enough. Not sure if the Strange or Afco shocks cost or if they can dampen the BMR springs...
If you put enough power down and have big enough meat tires, then you can twist the way the rear wheels will be opposed to the chassis when the front end comes up. Not sure how much power you put down, but you could try without the huge rear bar first and add it if you have issues leaving straight.
SFC's are obviously not going to do anything for suspension but if the car twists as bad as people say, then a 3 point set can't hurt.. plus you can get them with the short TA mounting point.
This is all coming from someone who has never drag raced before.. fyi
If you put enough power down and have big enough meat tires, then you can twist the way the rear wheels will be opposed to the chassis when the front end comes up. Not sure how much power you put down, but you could try without the huge rear bar first and add it if you have issues leaving straight.
SFC's are obviously not going to do anything for suspension but if the car twists as bad as people say, then a 3 point set can't hurt.. plus you can get them with the short TA mounting point.
This is all coming from someone who has never drag raced before.. fyi
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The point is, you shouldnt look at each suspension part as working independently (ex. lowering springs with Billstiens). Once all the correct pieces are together they work in unison to create a a desired end product. Getting SFCs before something like shocks will probably do little for how the car rides / handles etc. Upgrading the shocks should be one of if not the first suspension mod you do, hell, first mod to the car entirely. The best advice you will get is to purchase a set of Koni shocks (unless you car is all out drag, then I wouldnt know what to tell you). I also wondered about the value of them before I purchased them, even made a thread on here asking opinions. Finally i decided to get them and loved them, I am now on my second set of Konis (second car) and if i ever need shocks again I will gladly fork over the cash for another set. You can probably get a bunch of different answers on the rest of your setup, but shocks will be almost unanimous for Konis.
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I see a lot of confidence but not a lot of evidence. Help persuade me on what makes those johnny joints so much better than a good set of rod ends. I see the pictures, but I don't see what they are made of inside. And even if they had some sort of "poly-like" material inside wouldn't that make them more prone to developing more play than a rod end? Not being defensive here, just looking for the facts.