L80Killa87

iTrader: (8)

[QUOTE=w3s1c0a5t;10866797]It appears so, I saw a thread with a poll in it the other day about the number one biggest improvement, I do believe the majority voted an adjustable torque arm.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Front shocks are stock OEMs.The launches/hooks are perfect for the setup that exists.Some tire squeal and go,the 2800 convertor puts me into the flat torque line of the engine and the 4.56s' give me the torque multiplication to the axles to make 1st and 2nd wicked.It's a 1/8er on the street,if I was setting up for the 1/4 I'd do 3500(minimum) convertor and 3.73s'.The 4.56s' did knock a consistent .5 sec off the 1/4 time with its' strenght being the 1/8.Cars that run 1-2 secs. faster then me in the 1/4 will catch and pass me past 1/2 track.Considering that it only sees the track(s) once or twice a year and it's a dd except in snow/salt,it's setup for that 99.9% use.

01Z28Camaro

I have Spohn Adj torque arm, Bmr Panhard, That's it. I'm guessing around 400 rwhp. Well the car dead hooks from a 5 mph roll, Not wot launches. But I'm considering strange 10 ways. Front sway bar is staying in place, atleast until track opens up.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

4.56's on a 10 bolt??? I didn't know they existed. Are the gear teeth visible to the human eye?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Our 10 bolt 7.625 ring gear diameter have 7.625 gears in 2.73,3.08,3.23,and 3.42(GM OEM),all aftermarket ratios of 3.73,3.90,4.10,and 4.56 are 7.5 diameter,which have been around and in use for a long time.They fit our carriers and there's no reason a gear manufacturer should make a 1/8 larger diameter ring gear(1/16 on the radius)when the 7.5 works perfectly.
You'd be hard pressed to quickly visually tell the difference between a 4.10 gearset and a 4.56 gearset.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Yeah because they are both too small to see, so therefor you can't tell the difference,

Joking aside, I know lots of people drag race on the 10 bolt and lots of people crap their pants if they hear you use the 10 bolt for street driving and don't have at least a 12. I have wide 555r nittos and launch on crappy surfaces for the racing I do and still have my 10 bolt. It's not a lot of shock compared to a drag strip on slicks so I figure I'm doing fine with my 10. Plus it's less unsprung weight, so if it can be done I say go for it.

Though I am interested in the statement you made earlier where you think that the shocks pushing the axle down would be better than the springs pushing the axle down or a combination. I don't know honestly what the ideal setup or characteristics you want for a drag setup. If you want more compression than the spring needs, or if you want a balance anyway, or etc... I don't drag race, but I do spectator drag racing so it interests me somewhat to find out from some of the more experienced drag racing guys.

z28mccrory

iTrader: (7)

Lol... im not going to even begin to get into all the **** that is wrong or misunderstood in that post.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

I wear a really high mini skirt with long!!!!! hilled shoes and stand at really busy intersections sucking on lolly pops LOL Just messen I cant believe nobody beat me to this one LOL But on the real tip ,,I bought a set of Nitto DR;s 555 with my new CCW 505A;s for X mas this year after hearing alot of good things from other members on here and also installed a (Global west track link) torqe arm which is one of the nicest ive seen to date.It actually ties the whole car's floor into it, verses the tranny cross member or tunnel brace like all the others do. My buddy has this setup on both of his 1000HP F bodys after trying out a few others!