Do drilled and slotted rotors help stopping power?
#1
Do drilled and slotted rotors help stopping power?
I recently upgraded my '99 TA from 245's all the way around to 265 up front and 295 in the rear. Well now my car brakes like ****, and it feels like everytime i try and brake, ABS kicks in. I currently have the stock brake set up. If I get new drilled and slotted rotors, and new pads, will this help me?
Last edited by photoman9988; 01-20-2009 at 08:58 PM.
#5
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#8
honestly, unless you get bigger than normal rotors it doesent matter that much about them being drilled and slotted, the pads matter more. I have drilled and slotted rotors but it was more for parking lot candy than actually believing they would be amazing. Ofcourse anything aftermarket is almost definatly better than the stock ones.
#9
to answer your question....NO they won't make the car stop any faster. It's for appearance reasons ONLY.
There is plenty of info in the sticky and a ton more if you did a quick search. Don't believe the marketing hype.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/3233891-post2.html
There is plenty of info in the sticky and a ton more if you did a quick search. Don't believe the marketing hype.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/3233891-post2.html
#12
well son of a bitch... can i buy bigger rotors w/o having to get an entire new brake set up such as having to get a C5 set up?
Or actually... If i just buy better, performance oriented pads, would that make a difference?
Or actually... If i just buy better, performance oriented pads, would that make a difference?
#13
If you get good pads on the car itll stop just as well. Only downside is that better pads cause the disc to heat up even more when they can warp even faster than the stock pads. They are known for warping with the stock pads so just imagine a good grabby pad. Thats why many people upgrade to a better disc as well.
I have drilled and slotted rotors but I must say that Ive noticed my Hawk pads work amazing once heated up. Itll stop VERY VERY VERY fast with tons of weight transfer with the new pads.
I have drilled and slotted rotors but I must say that Ive noticed my Hawk pads work amazing once heated up. Itll stop VERY VERY VERY fast with tons of weight transfer with the new pads.
#14
The drilling helps will heat and gas disiaption and the slots keep the glazing off the pads. ie shave them. They also eat pads rapidly. They do help some. But when you heat them up, they syart cracking around the holes and slots. I like them and like he said better pads will help as well. Pros and cons to everything.
#15
I am in the process of buying some New cross drilled/slotted C5 rotors and the brackets as we speak. I actually just found out the C5 Caliper is basically the same thing as our LS1's and we can do this easy conversion and I just bought new LS1 Rotors
#16
Drilled and slotted rotors help breaking in an indirect way. They actually lessen breaking due to less surface area than normal rotors. But if you are having problems with heat dissapation and fading then they will help tremendously. I used to rod the **** out of my car around town breaking very quickly from high speeds on the stock rotors. I would get fade but rarely encounter the abs kicking in. I think you have a problem elsewhere.
#17
Aside from any ABS problems you have that might be caused by a different tire height, if you get quality aftermarket rotors (like brembo) and better pads(most people on here like hawk) you will have a lot better braking power and shouldn't have warping problems in most cases. Drilled rotors will start to crack if pushed hard and slotted wear out pads faster.
#19
Its hilarious that so many people STILL say that their slotted/drilled rotors are always better. There is so much info. on this, not only on this forum.
REPLACING THE STOCK DIAMETER ROTORS WITH DRILLED AND/OR SLOTTED ROTORS WILL WORSEN THE NORMAL STOPPING POWER OF YOUR CAR. The slots and/or drill holes lessen the surface area of the rotor. less surface area, less stopping. However, although I am no pro-racer at all, I do believe that in a racing application, a slotted rotor can be better. There is usuallly more surface area with a slotted rotor than a drilled rotor. And the slots would help with heat dispersion under the extreme braking of road racing.
But in a normal, street driven car, changing the blank rotors to a same diameter slotted and/or drilled rotor WILL NOT IMPROVE BRAKING. You will probably NEVER see a real race car, with both slotted and drilled rotors because they have the least surface area of all. Most high end or exotics usually have drilled rotors (corvette, mercedes, etc.) A daily driven street car like an f-body is better off with a quality blank rotor (ie. Brembo) and a quality pad (ie. Hawk performance ceramic or HPS). Upgrading the brake fluid and brake lines will also always help a lot.
REPLACING THE STOCK DIAMETER ROTORS WITH DRILLED AND/OR SLOTTED ROTORS WILL WORSEN THE NORMAL STOPPING POWER OF YOUR CAR. The slots and/or drill holes lessen the surface area of the rotor. less surface area, less stopping. However, although I am no pro-racer at all, I do believe that in a racing application, a slotted rotor can be better. There is usuallly more surface area with a slotted rotor than a drilled rotor. And the slots would help with heat dispersion under the extreme braking of road racing.
But in a normal, street driven car, changing the blank rotors to a same diameter slotted and/or drilled rotor WILL NOT IMPROVE BRAKING. You will probably NEVER see a real race car, with both slotted and drilled rotors because they have the least surface area of all. Most high end or exotics usually have drilled rotors (corvette, mercedes, etc.) A daily driven street car like an f-body is better off with a quality blank rotor (ie. Brembo) and a quality pad (ie. Hawk performance ceramic or HPS). Upgrading the brake fluid and brake lines will also always help a lot.
#20
You are going to have some many people telling you yes and many people telling you that you are wasting your money. I have had D&S rotors on my F-body for number of years now. Never had any problem out of them. If you are going to do the rotors get some stainless steel lines as well. THe drilled and slotted rotor help heat ecsape the rotor thur the holes adn slots, inturn your braking distance will be a lot better. Just better all around will it help the light go away, I doubt it. I did the LS1 brake up grade on my 96 and the light will kick on sometime while downshifting and applying the brake. Still trying to figure that out.