Best Sub Frame Connectors
#1
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Can anyone give any comments on their opinions on subframe connectors? Are they worth it? Which brands are good/bad? Welded or bolt on? If the board could give me any comments that would really help me in choosing the right type/brand. Thanks in advnance!
#2
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Can anyone give any comments on their opinions on subframe connectors? Are they worth it?
Which brands are good/bad?
Welded or bolt on?
If the board could give me any comments that would really help me in choosing the right type/brand.
My thoughts.
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i love my global west weld in. one of the first mods and a good one. got ridof the body flex over speed bumps and just pulled my car together better
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#8
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man i went to speed inc,
and just take a look at the KBDDs
how can you settle for anything else?
the SLPs come close, though
then again,
who's to say you can tell just by looking?
my hijack Q is,
if you get KBDD's,
will that interfere with other possible mods?
like, driveshaft safety loop?
or 3" true duals?
or anything else?
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Some subframe connectors have more of a ground clearance problem than others on lowered cars as they stick down below the frame (such as the SLPs). Others like the Hotchkis design tuck up nicely out of the way.
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Your choice and what you're doing with the car. I don't do anything extreme so I went with BMR, tightened her right up along with a STB. Can't be seen from the side, you have to crawl underneath to see them pretty much.
#12
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Some subframe connectors have more of a ground clearance problem than others on lowered cars as they stick down below the frame (such as the SLPs). Others like the Hotchkis design tuck up nicely out of the way.
They are "2-point" weld-ins, so not as effective as the KBDD or other similar brands, but made a big enough difference for my purposes. We bolted them in the back through the LCA holes, then welded around those brackets for the LCAs. Then welded the "flats" on the ends and tacked along the sides on the thin lip running under the doors. Fair amount of welding. Bottom line they are ON there!
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You say the Hotchkis are 2 point weld-ins. Are the BMR's 4 point? In looking at some install pics of BMR's it looks like the mounting plates extend to multiple portions of the front frames and are welded. Are the Hotchkis not the same? Looking at the design of the Hotchkis it looks like they may only mount to one portion of the front frame..
Thanks...
Thanks...
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Your choice and what you're doing with the car. I don't do anything extreme so I went with BMR, tightened her right up along with a STB. Can't be seen from the side, you have to crawl underneath to see them pretty much.
#16
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I have the BMR boxed variety sfc's welded in. Makes the car feel real solid. Tubular suspension pieces, poly bushings and subframe connectors makes it feel like my old C4 vette... almost.
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Originally Posted by Flaminchiten67
My thoughts exactly. Just ordered a set from AP-Engineering best price I've seen on SFC. I would suggest jumping on one of the many deals going on right now on suspension components.
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Wolf racecraft has the ultimate subs ,there the through floor design. There by far structurally the absolute best when you combine them with there cage and torque arm. I had the kenny brown double diamonds for years, and are easy to install, I'd say if you allready have a cage go with the BMR's or kenny browns. If your car does not have a cage yet and your planning to build a serious race setup the Wolf subs are alot more work but there the best. T
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KBDD. i have no idea where the header interference rumor started
but, lay under a kbdd car. the only way a header could interfere with the sub is if ends up dead smack under dr/pass feet!
but, lay under a kbdd car. the only way a header could interfere with the sub is if ends up dead smack under dr/pass feet!