Modify Stock LCA ? Tell me why I cant.
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I am once again taking things apart in the rear of the car due to differential issues... However, it lead me to thinking about new LCA's and a Panhard replacement. They seem to come in mild steel and moly as far as materials go, and as far as design they seem to be either tubular or boxed as well as adjustable or non adjustable. I started pricing up just the basics, tubular LCAs and Panhard, LCA relocation bracket, and some Misc stuff... Adds up fast. And if the benefit to the new products are that they are more rigid regardless of the design that brought them there... Can't I simply box in my stock items by welding them closed? This would in turn keep them from twisting or flexing as much and provide more structural rigidity would it not? Seems like too easy a thing to do, and too good of an opportunity to save money, so I assume there must be something keeping everyone with a welder from doing this... So lets hear what it is. Thanks in advance.
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They certainly aren't terribly priced, for the panhard and lca's it was about $200.... But still, thats $200. Thats a new set of gears, that I dont know yet but probably do need... lol
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i say box 'em. the main reason i am boxing mine is because of all the issues with the end links in the aftermarket lca, like vibrations and ****. this way, i box them and get the rigidity, yet keep the bushings, which i have the 1LE moog bushings. so when they come out with a lca that keeps the stock style bushings, then i will for sure buy that. i will have mine done tomorrow.
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I got all the UMI stuff on one of my cars, and I spent maybe $55 on boxing the LCA's and putting in Energy Suspension poly bushings on my other car.
I actually say I did it all for $5.50 because I got a $50 off any purchase over $200 coupon from Summit and didn't need anything. I just ran it up to $205 on bullshit, even a tee shirt. So I got $205 worth of stuff for $155 and the bushing kit cost $46 OR the $50 I saved=free. Plus a strip of steel $5.50, welding stuff I already had, etc.
I actually say I did it all for $5.50 because I got a $50 off any purchase over $200 coupon from Summit and didn't need anything. I just ran it up to $205 on bullshit, even a tee shirt. So I got $205 worth of stuff for $155 and the bushing kit cost $46 OR the $50 I saved=free. Plus a strip of steel $5.50, welding stuff I already had, etc.
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yea we did it welded in a strip and it made his car launch straight also replaced the bushings this was on a third gen with a bigblock and a 150 shot. Damn budget racers put all money in the engine and no money on suspension LOL
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No friend needed for the welder, I got a decent mig and am very comfortable with it... So with all this positive feedback I am happy to report I just took everything apart and looked it over... Tomorrow will be sand blasting, and I will stop by an old fab shop I used to work at to plasma cut some strips a the length I need... Then weld em up the following day or so...
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**disclaimer** im drunk. ok focker. take some pics as you make progress. i did some searching and so far i found one thread with pics...but they are all deleted. aaanndd, this homemade wine is the ****. the reason im consuming alcoholic consumption is my celebrating getting my car out of the shop tomorrow...its been in for 3 weeks. i cant make sense of the last sentence, maybe yall can.
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lol, being inebriated is always a good time. Good luck on the binge drinking and as I get time between the Living room remodel I'm finishing right now, and the Kitchen I am starting at the end of the week I will document my progress for you. I'll show those nay sayers that this project can turn out nice. And everyone keep their eyes open for some deals on bushings for me. Or just PM me and I will give my address for any complimentary orders you would like to ship out to me! : )
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Is it the same principal? Simply that it is stamped too thin and has the ability to flex? If so, I'm sure theres a way to reinforce it. I was eye'n it up under there, but hadn't really thought it out too much further than that.
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Didn't want to run downstairs and climb under the car again, but judging by the detailed pictures I have found of the stock T/A online I can definitely make that more rigid. It is also stamped, from the passenger side. Leaving a recessed area throughout the entire inside and a lipped perimeter. Looking at it exactly as it would sit on the car picture this. Vertical short members welded top to bottom and to the newly forming inside wall as well. Then placing another piece of steel over this all creating another side... And pre-drilling holes to meet the already installed vertical runs, this will allow for welding to this wall as well. There it would be, fully boxed and reinforced through and through!
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The more I look at it, and the more I think about the availability of steel tubing to me... The more I see where I can simply weld in a structural tubed frame inside of the stock torque arm. Using it solely as a mounting bracket front and back and making my own tubular T/A without needing any measurements... Just building it inside. I understand this will be heavier than an aftermarket, but it has to be effective in some way. And more importantly, this is all next to free.