mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I asked, but the Czars of CMC said "no" to the slot.

Too bad, too.

subarubill96

iTrader: (9)

got mine last week, they look great though i wasnt expecting the "made in china" label. of course what isnt anymore?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Can these be "turned" like a blank rotor?

I am going to assume that the quality of the rotor would resist warpage more so than a cheaper rotor. How deep are the slots? Could you turn them and the slots still be there?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Many don't turn rotors anymore anyway. If you warp a rotor, turning it trues it for a while but you're left with an even thinner rotor that warped when it was thicker. It'll happen again.. and the cost of turning isn't all that cheap anyway, and it's rarely recommended these days except by shops who make money turning them.

Someone might turn them, but generally not because the bit can be snagged in the slot. Up to the shop I suppose.

The slots are shallow, they only are cut down to the rotors's minimum wear depth. When the rotor is in need of replacment from wear, the slots wear away.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

ordered mine today....

now i just need to find a write up on how to change the brakes. i figure its pretty straight forward, but i keep reading about "change this pin, grease that pin, change that boot, tighten to 3759ft-lbs, replace this bolt"...etc.

what happened to swap pads, swap rotors...bleed brakes...done

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

Yea I keep meaning to do a write up on brake changes. Seems like one of the most common asked questions in this forum. I'll get to it some day....

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Are you kidding? Install Uni has had one for a while, infact Mitchntx wrote it. Just point 'em there.

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ds_mwarren.htm

teke184

iTrader: (5)

but that doesn't cover any of those "pins, bolts, boots..etc" that have been discussed.

NebWS6

iTrader: (4)

that's what I'm running

IIRC the directions say they are not to be turned...

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Yeah well, if after reading Mitch's copious documentation on the subject or a haynes manual, someone still can't figure it out, maybe they ought to just take it to a shop.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

If you can't just look at the brakes, and look at a list of torque specs...you should be taking it to a shop.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

kindda tough to look at the brakes when the car is still on the ground with rims on it.

i'd just like to know what i'm in for BEFORE i tear it apart.

i'm not exactly in a big city...i'm on an island 85 miles in the gulf of mexico....sometimes parts are hard to come by.


and i've managed to do 90% of my boltons without a manual....due to people helping out...UNLIKE what you've posted.

anyway...
i'm just doing my research....rotors are on ordeer.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Based on your signature, and the amount of posts you have I assumed you had done brakes many times, and the question you asked was because other people had been posting similar questions over and over, and you were tired of hearing it.

To answer your question, every detail of the job is on that page with the exception of bleeding the brakes.

You shouldn't need to change the boots on the pad abutment brackets unless they're torn or dried out. The boots are what the guide pin bolts (what holds the caliper in place over the pad bracket) screw in to.

All you need are the tools listed at the top of Mitch's instructions. Any replacement parts, such as guide pins, bolts, springs, chatter clips, etc can be had at napa.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

gotcha...

actually i've only done brakes once...at least pads....and it was on a beater so all i did was swap pads and turn the rotors.

NebWS6

iTrader: (4)

you'll be fine, and if you run into any trouble just post it up or do a search

a little fyi.....make sure you open the brake reservior and use a c-clamp and a small block of wood to push the caliper pistons back because the rotors are thick

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i just use the old brake pads...put the two rotor-facing sides of the pads together and use that in place of a block of wood....just make sure you have a c-clamp that will go over both pads & the caliper at the same time

oh, and btw, these rotors are working great...i got these and some Duralast Gold ceramic pads from VatoZone, and it's never stopped better, and all with absolutely zero vibration, too!

teke184

iTrader: (5)

yeah i know about the C-clamp stuff..

thanks guys...

teke184

iTrader: (5)

finally got around to installing the rotors and hawk hp pads:

rears:





fronts:




working



did the suggested break-in for the pads on the way home. never a squeal or vibration. significantly firmer pedal, and notably quicker stops. did a few hard stops from 55 and it pulled the car right down to 10mph QUICK.

one of these days...when the tools aren't in the trunk...i'll try an emergancy simulation from a good speed...see how well the ABS works.
put another 60 miles on them that nite and they performed well.

only thing i noticed is the pads seem to have left some black residue on the rotors. not sure if that's normal.

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

is it mainly in the grooves? Its probably just brake dust I have that too. when it rains or you wash your car it will turn to rust then the grooves will turn black again after you drive some. I have the hps and ate slotted rotors.

Today was the first real down poor I've been caught in since I installed them in Jan. They didn't seem as grippy as usual in the rain, but they grip like hell when its dry. I can't wait to put on some stickier tires to really test them.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

it seems to be on the rotor face....i'd have to look to see what they look like now that i've put 100miles on them.