badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

I am having an bit of a breaking issue. First it seem that the Driver side rear may be hanging up a bit because the rotor is about 30'F hotter then the passenger side rear. What do you think could be causing this and what are the possible solutions? Also...when you get on the breaks hard...the car just doesnt feel right. I honestly dont know how to explain it but it seems as if the rear breaks are just disengaging. Im not sure what going on but brakes are too important to mess around with. Any advise would help.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Pull the caliper apart and check the slides. If the caliper doesn't move back and forth freely on the pins, then they need to be lubricated. You can also look at the pads, if one pad is worn considerably more than the other, you have a slide issue.

EDIT: Also check/replace the brake hoses. They can collapse internally, which won't allow the pistons to retract in their bores, and it can give the same symptoms as sticking slides/bad calipers piston.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Your brakes not breaks could probably use a caliper pin cleaning and regreasing. Make sure they are sliding correctly. Flush out your brake fluid and put new fluid in. If one rotor gets hotter than the other still, you might have a seized piston and would need a caliper rebuild or new caliper. This would at least ensure that your braking should be even.

badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

I regreased the pins last night and will take it for a ride tonight after work.

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

probably the hose is ate out inside, and everytime you hit the brakes it's collapsing the line not letting to brake pressure release when you let go of the pedal, i had the same problem with my s-10 and it fixed the problem

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I've got to ask the obvious. What methodology are you using to acquire rotor temps?

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

I like the touch method. Finger is the standard but you can use your tounge if your really brave.

Re'

badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

I would never use my finger....i use some one else's. No i have an infrared thermometer.

badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

Time to bring this thread back since i have yet to find a solution. I have blead and bleab and blead the brakes somemore. I have changed pads. I have greased the slides. All this and i am still getting 30-40 degrees hotter on the rears with rather tame driving. They even out with more agressive driving with the rears only being 15-20 degrees hotter. I have also noticed that the drivers side rear gets warmer then the passenger. The car has an slp line lock....think this can have anything to do with it? I doubt it only cuz the fade issue started before i install the line lock but the heat issue is new.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

What is the actual reading of the infrared thermometer? Lets say it's around 300 degrees and your seeing a 20 degree difference, that's only a 6% difference in temperature. Now since your not taking readings immediately after braking there is some cooling taking affect. It's highly possible that one side does cool a little better than the other and it's very possible that you maybe within the margin of error of your thermometer. There's alot of metal in that area and it's possible that your reading are skewed by things such as the wheels. Maybe there really is not an issue...

Did you try putting the rear up on jack stands and checking how much "drag" there is on the wheel from the brakes/axle?

BTW, the line lock could be slowing the release of the rear brakes by acting as a restrictor plate for the brake fluid. Try taking it off and see what happens.

badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

Im talking a difference between 110 and 140-150. I would get out and take the temp at evey light/stop sign.

I did...and i do get some drag. I have adjusted the ebrake to as loose as it can go to try to eliminate this as a cause.

I wouldnt think that the lock would affect my rear brake since they are on seperate lines, but i have been wrong in the past. how would it restrict the rear fluid?

Another thing I forgot to mention. After the brake do build up some heat from some spirited driving, they vibrate to all hell...no matter what speed. Any thoughts?

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

Well the brakes will always drag some. There is no mechanism that returns the piston into the caliper except for the release of pressure. This is why old skool hot roders run drums. The springs on the shoes pull the shoe off the drum when the peddle is released.

doh, what a min, I'm totally wrong about the line lock, please disregard.

The brakes may vibrate like hell after spirited driving because maybe (and this is just short of a wild *** guess) the rotors are distorting once you get some heat into them and giving the same effect as a warped rotor. What brand rotor do you run? Do you use a good quality torque wrench to torque down the wheels to 100 ft lbs? When's the last time you removed and retorqued the lug nuts? My Tow vehicle sometimes does this on the rears, but once things cool off, it's all good again. But then again I have 100,000 miles on my rear rotors and I haven't turned them once :O

badaSS346

iTrader: (4)

Well its a craftman t/w not the best but it should be close enough. 100ft lbs everytime. The rotors are factory with about 30k on them and need to be turned and should be causing the vibration issue but i was just going to replace them with blanks (not sure whos yet) but wanted to have everything squared away before i put my hawks on with the new rotors.

Major_Lee_Slow

iTrader: (1)

I never turn rotors, I just throw them away because the cost/benefit/headache equation in turned rotors has never paid off for me.

BTW, I always run Brembo Blanks and I'm pretty sure I put more heat in less time in my rotors than most people on this board and I've never had an issue.