Koni/Strano Install Video
03-01-2012, 06:06 PM
#141
I don't mind talking to folks about it on the phone. But I've had to kind of stop with too many details on the forums... That ends up working against me when folks take what I tell them and use it to buy stuff from someone that can't answer their questions.
BlueKnight is right, at least in part. There is one other big detail that differs with the adjustment... basically you have fewer options on the settings.
BlueKnight is right, at least in part. There is one other big detail that differs with the adjustment... basically you have fewer options on the settings.
I'll be in touch with you after you return on 3/12. 
03-01-2012, 06:32 PM
#142
Teching In
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Waco Texas
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great video. I just had my installed and it cost me @ $400 with alignment. I could have done it myself, but just didn't want to chance it since it was my DD. I also wished I took Sam's suggestion and ordered the springs with the shocks. I was worried about my LT headers dragging since they were already scaping with the stock springs/shocks. After putting some good shocks on there it actually raised the car since the old shocks were so wore out. I think I would have put the springs in and been fine. It will have to be done later because it just doesn't handle good at high speeds with stock springs.
04-04-2012, 11:43 PM
#144
Great video. I just had my installed and it cost me @ $400 with alignment. I could have done it myself, but just didn't want to chance it since it was my DD. I also wished I took Sam's suggestion and ordered the springs with the shocks. I was worried about my LT headers dragging since they were already scaping with the stock springs/shocks. After putting some good shocks on there it actually raised the car since the old shocks were so wore out. I think I would have put the springs in and been fine. It will have to be done later because it just doesn't handle good at high speeds with stock springs.
P.S In a few months it will be three years since I made the install video and I'm still loving the shocks and springs, money well spent along with my lid, throttle body, intake, headers, catback, and tune. No regrets and it's just a pleasure to drive the car. My last mods to the car will be a Tick Master Cylinder and Diamond stage 2 clutch sometime down the road when my stock unit goes as it can be a bit of a downer sometimes to floor it onto the freeway and have the clutch pedal get sticky and shifting get notchy.
02-23-2013, 12:07 AM
#149
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fairfield
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
BlueKnight,
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned you needed to do a hose modification to the top of the springs, did you actually have to do this or was everything ok. Also how do you know if you need that rear axle alignment kit. Mine is my daily driver so i dont have time to wait 3 days for a part to get in. Great video BTW!
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned you needed to do a hose modification to the top of the springs, did you actually have to do this or was everything ok. Also how do you know if you need that rear axle alignment kit. Mine is my daily driver so i dont have time to wait 3 days for a part to get in. Great video BTW!
02-23-2013, 01:00 AM
#150
BlueKnight,
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned you needed to do a hose modification to the top of the springs, did you actually have to do this or was everything ok. Also how do you know if you need that rear axle alignment kit. Mine is my daily driver so i dont have time to wait 3 days for a part to get in. Great video BTW!
Earlier in the thread someone mentioned you needed to do a hose modification to the top of the springs, did you actually have to do this or was everything ok. Also how do you know if you need that rear axle alignment kit. Mine is my daily driver so i dont have time to wait 3 days for a part to get in. Great video BTW!
As for the rear, I wouldn't worry about not getting the part in. Basically when you lower the car, the rear can shift slightly to the side throwing off the alignment of the car. Some cars have this happen quite noticeably, others like me see almost no shift in the rear, it's really hit and miss. Fortunately mine moved so little it was nearly unmeasurable so I didn't have to buy an adjustable pan hard bar. If you do it and it ends up moving like a quarter inch or more I'd buy the adjustable pan hard bar and adjust it to realign the rear.
03-02-2013, 04:43 PM
#152
03-02-2013, 09:16 PM
#153
TECH Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Stamford, ct
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Buy off of sam and call him b4 install... the only thing i would add to this is you dont have to take the side panels off and pull the carpet back guys FYI
Replaced my Eibach springs W/ Stranos and koni's today
Before After
Front 25 5/8 Left 26 1/2 Rt 26 3/8
Rear 26 Left 26 3/4 Rt 26 1/2
Does anyone know why the back right would be lower... i checked the springs before and the eibachs where the same way... and i know most people would say make sure you put the spright in facing the same way and i did that. The only way i could think of fixing it is trying to spin the rear spring until it is lil longer on one side??? any ideas would be great
Will have pics up tomorrow
They worked out just as i thought they would they raised the car just enough even if i have another big guy in the car, i dont drag my header pulling into my drive way anymore... have to play w/ the shocks (prob next weekend at the track atco muscle weekend) but i could already tell that they where def better than the stock ones w/ 82,XXX on them hahah, i owe a big thanks to sam for filling me in on some lil stuff to make it easier
If anyone want the Eibach springs (>15K on them)pm me
Replaced my Eibach springs W/ Stranos and koni's today
Before After
Front 25 5/8 Left 26 1/2 Rt 26 3/8
Rear 26 Left 26 3/4 Rt 26 1/2
Does anyone know why the back right would be lower... i checked the springs before and the eibachs where the same way... and i know most people would say make sure you put the spright in facing the same way and i did that. The only way i could think of fixing it is trying to spin the rear spring until it is lil longer on one side??? any ideas would be great
Will have pics up tomorrow
They worked out just as i thought they would they raised the car just enough even if i have another big guy in the car, i dont drag my header pulling into my drive way anymore... have to play w/ the shocks (prob next weekend at the track atco muscle weekend) but i could already tell that they where def better than the stock ones w/ 82,XXX on them hahah, i owe a big thanks to sam for filling me in on some lil stuff to make it easier
If anyone want the Eibach springs (>15K on them)pm me
03-03-2013, 07:59 AM
#154
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^ I'm replacing my Eibach/Bilstein setup as well. But it may appear that it's riding lower in the back because of the difference in the way the front and rear fenders are cut. Measure from the ground to the center of the wheels and see how the measurements differ, but even out the tire pressure first.
An easier way to get that master out of the way is loosen the two 10mm's that hold the ABS unit to it's bracket. Then slide the ABS unit and the Master out of the way... All is needed, and all I can remember for the ABS unit is a socket, universal and long extension.
An easier way to get that master out of the way is loosen the two 10mm's that hold the ABS unit to it's bracket. Then slide the ABS unit and the Master out of the way... All is needed, and all I can remember for the ABS unit is a socket, universal and long extension.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 03-03-2013 at 08:05 AM.
03-03-2013, 03:45 PM
#156
Heater hose mod + isolator...my car sits abnormally high in the front, and low in the rear....but my front tire is also a over an inch shorter than my rear tire. A larger front tire would fill it up better, and I made that mistake buying them..will be getting the larger one next time.
04-16-2013, 09:49 PM
#160
On The Tree
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He basically told me that I didn't f'ing need it, at all, unless my rear end was WAY out of alignment.
He said not to worry about it and enjoy the shocks and springs now, if I decide later I want to step up the performance, then get a watts link. He was very clear, his message was: Adjustable pan-hard bars do NOTHING for performance, at all. They don't even keep the rear end from shifting side to side, which is exactly what a watts link does.
So that is exactly what Sam told me about panhard bars. I'm sold on not buying one. $200 less I have to worry about spending that I can put towards a watts link in a few months.
Now that that is out of the way. Are slightly rusted upper shock mounts ok to reuse? I cleaned off the rust as much as possible but they have 140,000 miles and have surface rust/corrosion and the surface is a little wavy and dimpley. If I need new upper shock mounts which ones are best? Moog? KYB? and I also need info on the isolator/rubber dog bones. I don't know if 140,000 mile stock rubber is even a good idea to reuse again. So what are you all doing? My parts have never been off the car in 16 years LOL. I bought it bone stock from an old lady who only drove on the freeway.
Last edited by Robbie Wilson; 04-16-2013 at 09:55 PM.