finally an upgrade to crap factory bump stops!
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
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From: Virginia
finally an upgrade to crap factory bump stops!
these are for a jeep. they were cheap and they bolted right up!
since i am trying to keep my midwest rear end from beating up my gas tank, i had to do a little work to the slp bump stop spacer to re-use that.
check it out!
factory stops are GROSS!
making the spacer work (do not need if the car didnt allready have them)
beautiful!
real excited about that one.. man i hated those factory stops!
since i am trying to keep my midwest rear end from beating up my gas tank, i had to do a little work to the slp bump stop spacer to re-use that.
check it out!
factory stops are GROSS!
making the spacer work (do not need if the car didnt allready have them)
beautiful!
real excited about that one.. man i hated those factory stops!
#3
Would someone not running 8 second passes need these? My stockers don't look like they have ever touched the axle.
#5
I've been on the bump stops so much that it's polished metal where it hits.
Mine don't look that bad, probably because it's dry most of the year. Again if you didn't have the spacers you don't need them?
Mine don't look that bad, probably because it's dry most of the year. Again if you didn't have the spacers you don't need them?
Last edited by 98redM6; 06-23-2009 at 05:44 PM.
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#10
I would think you'd have to be doing some hard driving to be continually slamming the bumpstops. As I previously stated, I installeed these pieces on my car. I have a '96 Z-28 with the Eibach ProKit springs, and at ride height, I have 2" of space between the bumpstop and the axle. You've got to hit some really big bumps at speed, to compress the suspension 2".
#12
#16
#17
I'm wondering how these are an "upgrade".
I'm wondering why the hell anyone would expend any effort to retain the SLP spacers.
And to the guy who thinks you'll only hit the stops under hard driving.... you could not be more wrong my friend.
I'm wondering why the hell anyone would expend any effort to retain the SLP spacers.
And to the guy who thinks you'll only hit the stops under hard driving.... you could not be more wrong my friend.
Last edited by Ironhead; 06-25-2009 at 05:27 PM. Reason: reading is apparently NOT fundamental for me
#18
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From: Virginia
these are an upgrade cuz they will not fall apart like the stock ones did
my car is lowered, thats why i need the stops / want the stops
the slp spacer lets the stops hit sooner, which is imperative given the set up i have tq arm wise from compromising the gas tank.
my car is lowered, thats why i need the stops / want the stops
the slp spacer lets the stops hit sooner, which is imperative given the set up i have tq arm wise from compromising the gas tank.
#19
A hard poly stop adversely affects ride quality and handling performance because when you contact the stop, the effective spring rate of your rear suspension spikes to somewhere near infinity.
Can you see how this may also affect a drag car on the launch? Exactly how much of a detriment this would be I am not qualified nor experienced enough to say.
My car is lowered. That and the above are why I want / need the softer factory Z28 stops. Note: NOT the SS stops.
Yes, the SLP spacer needlessly decreases the available suspension travel. Not good on a car that is already lowered a good bit on Pro Kit springs.
What torque arm do you have and how does it contact the tank when the tank is well aft of the arm?
I admit that on a drag only car that sees no street duty, some of the above may not matter.
Can you see how this may also affect a drag car on the launch? Exactly how much of a detriment this would be I am not qualified nor experienced enough to say.
My car is lowered. That and the above are why I want / need the softer factory Z28 stops. Note: NOT the SS stops.
Yes, the SLP spacer needlessly decreases the available suspension travel. Not good on a car that is already lowered a good bit on Pro Kit springs.
What torque arm do you have and how does it contact the tank when the tank is well aft of the arm?
I admit that on a drag only car that sees no street duty, some of the above may not matter.
#20
You can always make your own. Grainger and other companys sell resins/urethanes of different levels. you can get stuff as soft as a pencil eraser and as hard as the stuff the LS1 intakes are made of.