I have rear brakes but no fronts!
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I have rear brakes but no fronts!
OK hear me out...... Last fall I deleted the ABS modulator in my Camaro. The brakes weren't right after the job I so I figured I didn't get them bled well. So the car was put away for the winter and spring. Fast forward to today and I have rebled the brakes. No change. I have rears but none in the front.
The delete consisted of adding in a proportioning valve to the back brakes (master cylinder to valve, rear line to the valve). Then for the fronts, the front brakes are tied together with the line lock (all 3) run into a tee. I had an old SLP line lock the first time around, I thought it was bad so I put in a new Biondo the last few days before I bled out. May not have been the line lock's fault. So I've ran 64 oz of fluid through the whole system and I saw little air come through the clear line into the bleed cup. I did about 10 oz each on the rears for good measure--the rest through the front. You can clearly see the oxidation cleaned off the rears while the fronts remain completely oxidized. I'm at a loss!
The delete consisted of adding in a proportioning valve to the back brakes (master cylinder to valve, rear line to the valve). Then for the fronts, the front brakes are tied together with the line lock (all 3) run into a tee. I had an old SLP line lock the first time around, I thought it was bad so I put in a new Biondo the last few days before I bled out. May not have been the line lock's fault. So I've ran 64 oz of fluid through the whole system and I saw little air come through the clear line into the bleed cup. I did about 10 oz each on the rears for good measure--the rest through the front. You can clearly see the oxidation cleaned off the rears while the fronts remain completely oxidized. I'm at a loss!
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Just a wild guess ... you have the lines that feed the front brakes and the rear brakes reversed.
The line coming off the MC that is closest to the booster feeds the front lines.
Without more information about how you cobbled everything together, all any one can do is guess.
Pictures would help a lot.
The line coming off the MC that is closest to the booster feeds the front lines.
Without more information about how you cobbled everything together, all any one can do is guess.
Pictures would help a lot.
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Just a wild guess ... you have the lines that feed the front brakes and the rear brakes reversed.
The line coming off the MC that is closest to the booster feeds the front lines.
Without more information about how you cobbled everything together, all any one can do is guess.
Pictures would help a lot.
The line coming off the MC that is closest to the booster feeds the front lines.
Without more information about how you cobbled everything together, all any one can do is guess.
Pictures would help a lot.
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OK an update. I made the switch and no significant difference. It was a problem but not the main problem. I can hit the brakes and pedal goes to the floor. On subsequent pumps, it feels decent. I am thinking a faulty master cylinder. Is it possible the ABS modulator was allowing the system to work ok before? Or a big coincidence it has gone out right about the time I removed the modulator?
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Well I pulled a quart through the system. Does this sound sufficient enough or do I need to try more? I saw the air bubbles very early. I have one of those little cups with the hose. I did two cups each on the rears, and three each on the fronts. I guess that little guy is about 3 oz.
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That should have been sufficient ...
Are any of the brake lines routed such that they are higher than the master cylinder?
I have to be honest, I've never dealt with a line lock so all I have is a general understanding of how it works. Nor do I know what it takes to install it.
So when you pump the pedal it gets hard and stays or does it slowly leak down?
Did it do the pedal to the floor thing this just once? Or does it do this everytime? I ask, because if you just changed brake pads, the pedal will travel to the floor till all the slack between pad face and rotor face has been taken up.
Are any of the brake lines routed such that they are higher than the master cylinder?
I have to be honest, I've never dealt with a line lock so all I have is a general understanding of how it works. Nor do I know what it takes to install it.
So when you pump the pedal it gets hard and stays or does it slowly leak down?
Did it do the pedal to the floor thing this just once? Or does it do this everytime? I ask, because if you just changed brake pads, the pedal will travel to the floor till all the slack between pad face and rotor face has been taken up.
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That should have been sufficient ...
Are any of the brake lines routed such that they are higher than the master cylinder?
I have to be honest, I've never dealt with a line lock so all I have is a general understanding of how it works. Nor do I know what it takes to install it.
So when you pump the pedal it gets hard and stays or does it slowly leak down?
Did it do the pedal to the floor thing this just once? Or does it do this everytime? I ask, because if you just changed brake pads, the pedal will travel to the floor till all the slack between pad face and rotor face has been taken up.
Are any of the brake lines routed such that they are higher than the master cylinder?
I have to be honest, I've never dealt with a line lock so all I have is a general understanding of how it works. Nor do I know what it takes to install it.
So when you pump the pedal it gets hard and stays or does it slowly leak down?
Did it do the pedal to the floor thing this just once? Or does it do this everytime? I ask, because if you just changed brake pads, the pedal will travel to the floor till all the slack between pad face and rotor face has been taken up.
The pedal will go to the floor everytime but if you pump them quickly thereafter they seem to hold a decent pressure. I pumped them up and flipped on the line lock and it held better than it had previously. Still no noticeable grabbing of the rotors on the front as the oxidation still goes all around. I got a MC off Ebay for $35 so that's my best guess since both fronts are out.
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Changed master cylinders, pulled through 2 qts of fluid. No change. What the hell is going on? What else do I try? I have some stock LT1 brakes and I'm thinking of just putting them on. My calipers are Baer but what are the chances of both being bad????