Has anyone with F-body done the ZO6 brake swap?
07-08-2009, 01:18 PM
#21
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I'd recommend NOT getting the Baer rotors. Yeah, I know I have them, but I got a killer deal on them used. Reason why I say this is that Baer is the only one that makes rotors for their hats. No other manufacturer's stuff will fit. And, they are $200 apiece for replacement rotors (not incl the hats).
If you go with a Wilwood or similar, the replacement rotors are cheaper, and there are other companies that make cheaper rotors with the same bolt pattern to fit the hats.
If you're only planning on doing autox and occasional track days, I's stick with a plain old C5 kit. Plain Brembo blanks from Autozone are dirt cheap. Pads are cheap. Calipers are cheap. But, they will lock up your tires at most any speed and handle the heat.
In fact, check out O'Reilley's auto parts. They used to sell Brembo rotors with a lifetime warranty. They cost about 50% more than regular rotors, but you could simply bring in the old ones and get a new set. I went through about a half-dozen before getting this new setup.
If you go with a Wilwood or similar, the replacement rotors are cheaper, and there are other companies that make cheaper rotors with the same bolt pattern to fit the hats.
If you're only planning on doing autox and occasional track days, I's stick with a plain old C5 kit. Plain Brembo blanks from Autozone are dirt cheap. Pads are cheap. Calipers are cheap. But, they will lock up your tires at most any speed and handle the heat.
In fact, check out O'Reilley's auto parts. They used to sell Brembo rotors with a lifetime warranty. They cost about 50% more than regular rotors, but you could simply bring in the old ones and get a new set. I went through about a half-dozen before getting this new setup.
07-08-2009, 02:36 PM
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I'd recommend NOT getting the Baer rotors. Yeah, I know I have them, but I got a killer deal on them used. Reason why I say this is that Baer is the only one that makes rotors for their hats. No other manufacturer's stuff will fit. And, they are $200 apiece for replacement rotors (not incl the hats).
If you go with a Wilwood or similar, the replacement rotors are cheaper, and there are other companies that make cheaper rotors with the same bolt pattern to fit the hats.
If you're only planning on doing autox and occasional track days, I's stick with a plain old C5 kit. Plain Brembo blanks from Autozone are dirt cheap. Pads are cheap. Calipers are cheap. But, they will lock up your tires at most any speed and handle the heat.
In fact, check out O'Reilley's auto parts. They used to sell Brembo rotors with a lifetime warranty. They cost about 50% more than regular rotors, but you could simply bring in the old ones and get a new set. I went through about a half-dozen before getting this new setup.
If you go with a Wilwood or similar, the replacement rotors are cheaper, and there are other companies that make cheaper rotors with the same bolt pattern to fit the hats.
If you're only planning on doing autox and occasional track days, I's stick with a plain old C5 kit. Plain Brembo blanks from Autozone are dirt cheap. Pads are cheap. Calipers are cheap. But, they will lock up your tires at most any speed and handle the heat.
In fact, check out O'Reilley's auto parts. They used to sell Brembo rotors with a lifetime warranty. They cost about 50% more than regular rotors, but you could simply bring in the old ones and get a new set. I went through about a half-dozen before getting this new setup.
07-08-2009, 03:32 PM
#23
Have you checked out the CTS-V swap?? It comes out to around $600 complete, and thats with 14" rotors and 4 pot Brembos. Check the sticky at the top of the Brakes & Suspension forum if you're interested.
07-08-2009, 03:45 PM
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No, I've seen the sticky and some of you guys talking about it but I haven't checked it out. The price definitely seems good, 14" rotors like I want. I'll check it out, thanks.
07-08-2009, 04:25 PM
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That's also a good option. Several guys that I race with run that caliper. FYI, it's the same caliper that comes on several cars, like the Evos and more. It holds up well.
Check to make sure you don't need 18" wheels. Or, if you already have them, go for it!
Check to make sure you don't need 18" wheels. Or, if you already have them, go for it!
07-08-2009, 04:50 PM
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I'm going to be running Fikse Profil 13's 18x10 with 285 or 295 up front and I'm not sure of what offset I would need to have those fit right. Tucked just behind the wheel well or even almost flush would be fine I think. Which offset would that require?
07-08-2009, 05:24 PM
#27
It does require 18" wheels but that's OK, I am planning to have 18"s anyway. One thing though he states is that they require a 36mm offset. I think he mentioned that was for Vette wheels but I would still like to find that out.
I'm going to be running Fikse Profil 13's 18x10 with 285 or 295 up front and I'm not sure of what offset I would need to have those fit right. Tucked just behind the wheel well or even almost flush would be fine I think. Which offset would that require?
I'm going to be running Fikse Profil 13's 18x10 with 285 or 295 up front and I'm not sure of what offset I would need to have those fit right. Tucked just behind the wheel well or even almost flush would be fine I think. Which offset would that require?
So as long as your wheels are 41mm offset or numerically lower, you should be fine. Then the other issue is spoke clearance - you'll have to test fit the wheels to make sure you have sufficient clearance between the caliper and the rear of the spokes. As long as the offset is 41mm or lower though, you shouldn't have spoke clearance problems unless for some reason the spokes are very deep.
07-08-2009, 11:01 PM
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I think you misread - you don't need as low as a 36mm offset, but 41mm is about the highest you can go
So as long as your wheels are 41mm offset or numerically lower, you should be fine. Then the other issue is spoke clearance - you'll have to test fit the wheels to make sure you have sufficient clearance between the caliper and the rear of the spokes. As long as the offset is 41mm or lower though, you shouldn't have spoke clearance problems unless for some reason the spokes are very deep.
So as long as your wheels are 41mm offset or numerically lower, you should be fine. Then the other issue is spoke clearance - you'll have to test fit the wheels to make sure you have sufficient clearance between the caliper and the rear of the spokes. As long as the offset is 41mm or lower though, you shouldn't have spoke clearance problems unless for some reason the spokes are very deep.
07-09-2009, 08:55 AM
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FYI - backspacing is dependent upon overall wheel width. A 41mm backspace on an 18x9 will put the hub face of the wheel in a different location than a 41mm backspace on an 18x10 wheel.
07-09-2009, 10:17 AM
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Yeah I know that. I'm planning on going with a 18x10 wheel & 285 or 295 tire on the front. I want the wheel to be either almost flush or come just inside the wheel well. So what would be the offset? Most likely using Michelin Pilot PS2 tires, btw.
07-09-2009, 11:29 AM
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07-09-2009, 01:08 PM
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07-09-2009, 01:24 PM
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07-09-2009, 01:44 PM
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Also, if you aren't having a wheel made, and have to find something that's "close", you can always put some thin spacers in there.
Regardles of which you choose, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting better wheel studs.
When I started running 315s up front, I started breaking stock studs. After the first dozen broken ones, I went to ARPs. I've abused the C-R-A-P out of those things (crossthreaded a nut and rammed it on backwards to rethread, run with loose lug nuts, raced with non-hubcentric wheels on for 4 years) and they are good-as-new.
Regardles of which you choose, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting better wheel studs.
When I started running 315s up front, I started breaking stock studs. After the first dozen broken ones, I went to ARPs. I've abused the C-R-A-P out of those things (crossthreaded a nut and rammed it on backwards to rethread, run with loose lug nuts, raced with non-hubcentric wheels on for 4 years) and they are good-as-new.
07-09-2009, 06:36 PM
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Also, if you aren't having a wheel made, and have to find something that's "close", you can always put some thin spacers in there.
Regardles of which you choose, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting better wheel studs.
When I started running 315s up front, I started breaking stock studs. After the first dozen broken ones, I went to ARPs. I've abused the C-R-A-P out of those things (crossthreaded a nut and rammed it on backwards to rethread, run with loose lug nuts, raced with non-hubcentric wheels on for 4 years) and they are good-as-new.
Regardles of which you choose, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting better wheel studs.
When I started running 315s up front, I started breaking stock studs. After the first dozen broken ones, I went to ARPs. I've abused the C-R-A-P out of those things (crossthreaded a nut and rammed it on backwards to rethread, run with loose lug nuts, raced with non-hubcentric wheels on for 4 years) and they are good-as-new.
