Will this work in getting rid of the torque arm completly
#4
There was quite a large thread about this on LS1.com . The guy claiming to have done this was pretty much tore apart for this.
I personally see little to no advantage on using these over a T/A set-up in drag racing.
I personally see little to no advantage on using these over a T/A set-up in drag racing.
#5
My impression is that Lakewood makes many products
that are very track-specific. This looks like one. Just
think what 2" of suspension travel would do to your
pinion angle. The stock torque arm is as long as it is,
because it's meant to take the full range of street
suspension travel & keep things straight. The shorter
the arm, the more extreme the suspension's torque
reaction. This is a bonus for hole shot and probably
heinous for brake hop. The longer the arm, the more
neutral the bias.
that are very track-specific. This looks like one. Just
think what 2" of suspension travel would do to your
pinion angle. The stock torque arm is as long as it is,
because it's meant to take the full range of street
suspension travel & keep things straight. The shorter
the arm, the more extreme the suspension's torque
reaction. This is a bonus for hole shot and probably
heinous for brake hop. The longer the arm, the more
neutral the bias.
#6
Originally Posted by lerajie
There was quite a large thread about this on LS1.com . The guy claiming to have done this was pretty much tore apart for this.
I personally see little to no advantage on using these over a T/A set-up in drag racing.
I personally see little to no advantage on using these over a T/A set-up in drag racing.
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#8
I had those like other folks about four years ago.
We all broke the tab that the shock bolts through.
Car rode like crap and suspension experts were uncomfortable with the design.
If you want something like this but that works get the Pete Z bars.
I would not feel safe removing my torque arm with the Lakewood Lift bars, if they break you could have a serious accident.
We all broke the tab that the shock bolts through.
Car rode like crap and suspension experts were uncomfortable with the design.
If you want something like this but that works get the Pete Z bars.
I would not feel safe removing my torque arm with the Lakewood Lift bars, if they break you could have a serious accident.
#9
The guy in Look Ma Pt2 ( the last post is dated 11/25 if your searching for it ) replaced the heim at the rear end of the bar with a full width bushing, and he reinforced the shock mount and then welded the bracket onto the rearend housing. There are some good pictures and a link to an article in the thread.
#10
Those Lakewood bars are a ripoff of the Pete Z bars.
Also Mustangs have no torque arms but they are 4 link setups... they have two upper and two lower control arms.
We have three link setups.
The Lakewood setup is not safe enuff to be a true 4 link setup, it's really sort of a rigged up 2 link setup. Think this out a bit, that's all.
Also Mustangs have no torque arms but they are 4 link setups... they have two upper and two lower control arms.
We have three link setups.
The Lakewood setup is not safe enuff to be a true 4 link setup, it's really sort of a rigged up 2 link setup. Think this out a bit, that's all.
#12
Not to flame, but I just wanted people to know I have no connection with the folks who make/sell the Pete Z bars, despite my username.
Also, if you think about how/where the Lakewood set-up mounts, it doesn't seem very sturdy. Maybe if you weld/gusset/support the crap out of everything it would be strong enough, but it's still just a poor-man's 4-link. With all the different TA options out there I don't see a reason to mess with this. My personal philosopy on modding these cars is this: set a goal for where you want your car to be, then look at the mods on cars that have met or exceeded your goals. These are the parts you need. Good Luck.
Also, if you think about how/where the Lakewood set-up mounts, it doesn't seem very sturdy. Maybe if you weld/gusset/support the crap out of everything it would be strong enough, but it's still just a poor-man's 4-link. With all the different TA options out there I don't see a reason to mess with this. My personal philosopy on modding these cars is this: set a goal for where you want your car to be, then look at the mods on cars that have met or exceeded your goals. These are the parts you need. Good Luck.