Old Dot 3 fluid will only make the turkey taste a little more spicier!

Reminds me of one time when I almost brushed my teeth with the tooth brush I had used to clean my wheels. Moral of the story, dont bring the tooth brush back to the bathroom, because it will be used!

 

I use a vacula vacuum bleeder.

Works great and its quick.

If I happen to not have it around i gravity bleed them.

Id be careful about letting the master go dry, Ive always had to bench bleed master cylinders before install to get them done properly, but I may be missing something.

Propably the only time Id completely suck everything dry at the same time, would be if I was going to DOT 5.

 

gravity is your friend. Just keep teh MC full while all 4 corners slowly drain.

Once the fluid is clear at the caliper, close off the bleeder.

Then, pump a couple squirts through each caliper using the tried and true pump, bleed, hold, pump method.

 

Can you gravity bleed one at a time?

How long does it take the right-right to bleed this way? Just a time frame, nothing exact.

 

It goes faster doing all of them at one time.

On a dry system, we see fluid within about 15 minutes or so. That's an extremely conservative estimate. It seems like it is less than 10 minutes.

I also give the calipers a decent whack with a rubber mallett to dislodge any clinging air bubbles.

Also, let me quantify that this in on a non-ABS car ... the ABS has been removed from the braking system. But under normal, average Joe bleeding, the ABS module is bypassed anyway.

 

I bought one of these a few years ago. Makes it so easy...

Bill

 

Seemed like no matter how much I bled my front left all I ever got was greenish-colored fluid.

 

were you adding fresh fluid while you were bleeding? the left front should be the fastest to bleed since its the closest to the master. try starting at the right rear, and keep bleeding/adding new fluid till you see fresh fluid come out. then left rear, right front, left front. it will also help alot to get a different color fluid then what you already have (for obvious reasons). its another reason why i like the ATE blue and standard fluid. theyre exactly the same except for color. makes it very easy to tell when youre flushing. the blue is blue, and the standard is clear. they call it 'type 200'.

 

This question is for 00 Trans Ram and mitchntx because you guys seems to be doing this the way I would go about it.

I want to flush my fluid due to age (water), and I still have the ABS. If the old manual bleeding method I am used to bypasses the ABS resovoir/valves, would you expect that 2 seperate flushing cycles will result in 95% new fluid?

Unfortunately I do not have access to a Tech 2.

 

no. wont work. the ABS has to cycle -open and close- to flush it. the only way it does that is through a scanner, or after initial startup and at speeds of 5-10mph. i posted the technique in another thread. a power bleed is a HUGE help in this.

heres a thread on frrax that explains the procedure:

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=13033

 

Probably 1 thorough flush cycle will get 95%.

While I've never cut one open, I don't think the ABS module holds a tremndous amount of fluid. But that certainly raises a good question ... Does any one know for sure?

 

here is the GM shop manual for you t a


https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti