Im about to put SS brake lines on my car and also changing to DOT4 fluid. Im trying to avoid buying a power bleeder, is there any other way of flushing the whole system clean?

 

I would just take the master off and drain it, then crack one bleeder at a time and blow compressed air through the system at each of the lines going to the master, then manual bleed the heck out of it with the DOT 4

 

Getting all the fluid out of the master cylinder is much less messy if you go to Wally World and buy yourself a $1.50 turkey baster to suck it out with.

 

I guess the problem with this would be you may have to use a scan tool to bleed the ABS Module, not a problem for me because I work for a GM dealer, but could present a problem for you

 

Yes, do this, then bleed the lines to get the bit left. You can also use the turkey baster technique for your power steering (though in the case of the power steering, you get as much out/replaced as possible and drive for a while and repeat it a few times, kind of like flushing your coolant by draining from the radiator)

Use ATE brake fluid like Super Blue. (In case any of you are dumb, obviously this comment does not apply to the power steering comment above, don't use brake fluid in that)

 

Single best advice - "speed bleeders". I have never been any
good at bleeding brakes, but this last weekend I did a caliper
& rotor swap on one of the beaters and the speed bleeders
made it bubble-free first time. Just keep pushing and filling
until it comes out the same color as it went in.

 

Earls "Solo-bleeders" make it so much easier!

 

Please don't push air through the system. You want to get air OUT - why put more in?

 

Damn! I'd never seen those before. $10/pair at Summit.

 

I've seen a problem with Solo Bleeders. If you take your car for a lapping day, your brakes get incredibly hot. This heats that bleeder, also. Then, you're putting lots of pressure on it when applying the brakes (brake fluid pressing on it).

The problem I saw was that the inside of the bleeder collapsed. It got hot, soft, and the hole collapsed.

I simply use a bottle with a hose that slips onto the stock bleeder. No need to open and close the bleeder. It's a 1-man operation. It takes 10 minutes to do the car. And, it cost $1.99.

 

Thanks for the explaination. I've only heard the solo bleeders can be more of a pain than they are worth, but never much explaination why.

Also... how do you not suck air back into the system if you don't close the screw? Do you have the bottle end of the clear hose submerged in clean fluid or something?

 

Yea I wouldnt let the master go dry, it will make more trouble bleeding it later.

Just do it progressively and flush it out a little at a time. If you can have a partner help.

 

Yeah, it's a bottle with a magnet on it. The hose is submerged in a small amt of fluid to begin with. You push the pedal down, but let it up slowly. Because the fluid naturally wants to go downhill, it'll suck fluid out of the master instead of back up the hose.

Or, if you have time and want to enjoy a beer, uncap the master and wait for gravity to pull it down. Takes a while, but it's easy.

 

Turkey baster is better than what you guys all said. Stop ignoring it!

 

I've flushed contaminated brake systems out with air before, It's very simple to remove air from the system doing the automated bleed procedure with a Tech 2, infact, you can do it by yourself. But I corrected myself knowing that most people dont have easy access to a scan tool. i'm not trying to start a thread argument, i'm just clarifying that with the proper tools, it is a great way to flush brakes.

 

Thanks for the replys gonna try the turkey baster after I cook the turkey

 

My Step-father (also a GM / ASE-certified Master Tech) also believes in using compressed air (in addition to also spraying Brake-Clean down each of the hard lines); but this method he used to completely remove brake fluid from a system which had contaminated brake fluid. For those folks who just want to flush-and-fill, then this might just be over-kill...

 

a power bleeder like a motive only costs $50 or so. you buy it once, and youll have it forever. it makes life SO much easier and faster. you can do nearly every late model GM brake system with it, and you can get adapters for any other car made for under $20. its a quality, safe investment.

 

Certainly air and power bleeders are quick ways to go. And, done properly, they are probably better than my method. I just keep things as simple as possible on my car. If I have too many processes, something gets forgotten.

 

I know you're joking, but it's worth saying, I think, that any such thing used for car fluids should never again be used around food, no matter how much you clean it.

You might have known this, but I'm sure someone doesn't/didn't.