CJDZ24_Z28

iTrader: (75)

I can't ******* taking anymore. I have been trying to bleed my brakes for 2 days now between work and such. For the life of me i cannot get the air out of my brakes. I started rear passenger etc etc. I purchased a Vacuum bleeder, also had my girl sit and pump the brake while i opened the bleeder. Still no go. Im getting pissed.. I dont know what else to do.

WhiteRhino

iTrader: (6)

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...2&Refresh=True Done in less than 10 minutes.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Try bleeding in the opposite order - start at the driver's front and move around so that the last one is the passenger's rear.

It helped when I was stuck in the past. I also use a Motive positive pressure bleeder, but the regular method of opening the bleeder, pushing the pedal to the floor and holding, and then closing the bleeder should work just fine.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

When system is solid and you are flushing the sytem with fresh ...
Passsenger rear, Driver rear, Passenger Front, Driver front.

When chasing an air bubble ...
Driver front, Passenger front, Driver rear, Passenger rear

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

When you are using the vacuum bleeder, are you getting a continuous flow of bubbles coming through the line? (if not, how are you certain there's still air in the system).

Reason I ask that is, I was trying to bleed the brakes on my car using a vacuum bleeder, and I went through a crap load of fluid, and there was still a steady stream of bubbles coming through the line of the vacuum bleeder. I couldn't believe it. I ended up resorting to the old fashioned pump method (with a second person pumping the pedal) and there wasn't a hint of air to be found. The pedal was rock hard immediately, and I've had ZERO issues with the brakes.

Conclusion? I think the vacuum bleeder was pulling air around where the tube connected to the bleeder valve, so it LOOKED like there was air in the system, except it wasn't actually coming from the BRAKE line .

However, if the good ol' pedal pumping method is still producing air bubbles, then proceed as directed above.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

bingo!

Kevin97ss

Try bleeding the ABS unit frist, then go to each wheel.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Also, make sure all of your brake lines and banjo fittings are sealing ok, it's possible that the vacuum bleeding is showing you a leak somewhere.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

And for that matter, if you've had the calipers off, make sure the bleeder screws are facing UP.

Did you end up figuring this out?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

just to clarify, shes not pumping WHILE the bleeder is open, right?

and +2 on the motive. i was sick of dragging someone out to help every time i swapped pads for track days, i finally bought one. makes it SO much easier and ill never bleed the old way again. i dont see how everyone doesnt own one. its a solid investment, and other caps can be bought to do any brake or clutch system in the world.

2002ws-6

iTrader: (5)

For some reason I had trouble bleeding my brakes the first time i did it on my Trans Am. I've been working on cars for a long time, and what I ended up needing to do was have the key in the ignition and in the on position. I think for some reason the ABS unit needed to be powered up to bleed the brakes properly

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I don't recall having to do that on my '96 Z-28, but on my wife's former 2000 Lincoln LS, I DID have to power up the car, so the traction control/ABS solenoids were engaged. Good thing to take into consideration....

CJDZ24_Z28

iTrader: (75)

Going to work on it tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

not at all, and thats not how you bleed the ABS block either

2002ws-6

iTrader: (5)

We'll that may not be how a book tells you to do it, but the two times I've bleed my brakes on the T/A I tried it with the ignition off and neither time was I able to get a good solid pedal. Both times I then put the key in and did the brakes in the same R/R L/R R/F L/F pattern and there you go a good solid rock hard pedal. It worked for me what harm can it do?

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

turning the key does absolutely nothing. think about it. the brakes work on a vacuum. if the motor isnt running, its not making a vacuum. having the key on or off is inconsequential. if you happened to get a good pedal after turning the key, then something else must have happened.

2002ws-6

iTrader: (5)

My last post was me being polite, I know the brake booster works on vacuum. The ABS/TCC unit has about 40 wires going to it and there are solenoids in it. My thought is that electronics in the unit needs to be powered up. I've been bleeding brakes here at the porsche dealership for 8 years now. Its part of a 2 year service. I use the vacula on these cars, don't even have to take the wheels off.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

NO, the brakes DO NOT work on vacuum. They're a hydraulic system, actuated by the brake pedal, with vacuum ASSIST!!

Turning on the key, depending on the car, energizes the solenoids in the ABS/traction control system, and allows them to flow fluid, therefore bleed the brakes.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

the only way the ABS block opens up is with the car RUNNING AND MOVING. the way to bleed the block is to jack the rear, open the bleeders, start the car and put it into gear. when the wheel speed reaches 8-10mph, THEN the ABS block opens. not just from the key being on. why do you think it needs a scan tool to do it otherwise??

91ZLS6

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure?

If it was like that, wouldnt that mean that ABS kills the system unless your over 10mph, if thats teh case, you have no brakes under that speed????

Everything ive read is that cylcing the key will cause the abs to move the solenoids.

For me personally i just gravity bled the brakes, and it worked like a champ