will8908

iTrader: (2)

OK so I have a 2000 Trans Am WS6. I want to lower it. But im not sure what all I NEED to accomplish this. Ive read that I should get everything including shocks, springs, adjustable panhard bar, etc. Pretty much around 1000 bucks worth of stuff. Then I talk to other people who say they bought some lowering springs for a couple hundred and were DONE! So, what do I actually NEED in order to lower my car? Also Ive read some stuff about Eibach being bad? whats that about? thanks.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello
I would always suggest going with a adjust pan hard bar due to the fact when the vehicle is lowered the rear shifts. And having a adjustable bar will allow you to recenter the rear end. And when the vehicle is lowered your control arm is now angled at the wrong direction. A fast fix would be a set of lower control arm relocation brackets. They allow you adjust the lower control arm more parallel to the surface and increase you traction performance and eliminate any wheel hoping issues. Below is a link to show you what UMI Performance has to offer.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...ex&cPath=7_138

If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

All you "need" to lower are a set of springs. But that's not what you *need* to lower the car and have it work well.

Eibach has QC issues on LS1 Pro-kit springs, the rears tend to sag with age, and generally run a bit lower than estimated drop. In fact I sell a goodly number of my rear springs to folks with Pro-kits to get the back end up back up.

My take: Good set of lowering springs, good set of appropriate shocks, adjustable PHB are what you should have to lower a car and have it work well. If you get any wheelhop, then we may have to look into LCA's and/or LCA brackets. I do not beleive you need those things just because you are lowering. In fact my car has stock LCA's (with 1LE bushings) and no brackets and not only does it not wheelhop, but handles well enough to win National competitions (time and time again).

I sell UMI's complete line. I also sell shocks from Koni, Bilstein, KYB, Tokico, Edelbrock... I make my own springs based on what I wanted, but I also sell others (including Eibach) like Hotchkis, H&R, Vogtland... I like to give options to folks so they know that I'm not recommending things because it's what I have, but because I think a particular part is better. Having options insures folks aren't being boxed in.

will8908

iTrader: (2)

yeh ive heard before that the eibach's tend to lower more than they say.. but the cars at stock height ride pretty high, and every lowering spring I see for sale other than eibach only lower between 1 in and 1.25 in.. seems like I may not be satisfied with such a small amount. I dont want to slam the car but I dont want to waste money on an unoticable drop in suspension either.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Well, do these cars look stock to you? https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...ring-kits.html

You're assuming that 1, 1.2" is not noticeable--and it is. In fact a 2" dropped car looks slammed.

will8908

iTrader: (2)

what would you recommend for shocks?

twitchtwice

iTrader: (12)

the absolute best shocks you can buy are konis. they are pricey but they are well worth the money for how they perform

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The best recommendation is Koni. Just like if you asked an engine builder what header to run he'll likely recommend a premium one that works vs. a cheaper one that might look ok on paper, but in reality isn't so much.

However, I do offer options other than Koni. KYB AGX's are adjustable and allow you to tune the car the most to your liking (they don't ride as well, and aren't built as well as Koni's fwiw). Bilstein's are built great, but lack proper damping for controlling lowering springs for the long term. And fwiw, when shocks get weak the car starts riding worse, being less locked down feeling too. I also sell Tokico as the bare minimum. Again, not the best built, not the worst. Warranty coverage on Tokico and KYB both isn't so hot.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Sam's probably got the best advice and experience by far out of everyone here, so don't hesitate to go with what he says alone. I've done so for a long time and he has great recommendations for people new to suspension and modifying it for their first time.

will8908

iTrader: (2)

Cool! well thanks for all the help.. Sounds like ive got money to spend! Whens that discount special goin into effect??! HAHA

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

There are a some handling pacakges that come with various part on my website. Look up your car, and then look under the discount combination section. Check back from time to time, I'll add more as time allows. Saves a few bucks vs. buying the parts individually--but of course any and all other parts you might want to add can be put together too.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

At -1" I ended up with the adjustable Panhard at the
factory length, so it wasn't strictly necessary. It's
an easy install (about as easy as it gets) so you can
wait on it until you see where the stock one ends up
at your final drop. Unless you've already got super fat
tires, anyway. At more drop I'd say just bite the bullet.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That's true, the lower the drop, the more and more necessary PHB correction is due to the way an PHB moves in an arc. It's never a bad idea to investigate either a PHB or Watts link if you want everything just right. But as a side note, remember that stock PHB's have big soft rubber bushings which deflect a lot--and many folks are running larger than stock tires and/or wheels which leaves less wiggle room until something rubs.

The more you are lowered, the bigger your tires are, and the more inset the wheel/tire is than stock the more and more critical a PHB becomes. I've changed my Handling Packages around to not include PHB's, not because they aren't a good idea, but because there are so many styles to choose from, and also the option of a Watts Linkage instead.

Black-n-Sleek

iTrader: (6)

call Sam, call Sam and did I mention call Sam.
Now to cover the "is it low enough" issue. I just installed koni's and strano springs and it's low. Stock exhaust rubs over certain speed bumps. It looks good and rides even better.
again call sam what you think you need may not be what you need

Insane

so what's the difference in running stock shocks and the konis? obviously the Koni's are adjustable and stiffer and better traction bla bla.. but for someone who doesnt do professional cornering and road racing is it really necessary to have 1000 dollars invested in shocks?

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

Is there a difference in koni's and stock shocks(decarbons).The difference is dramatic.Your car rides so much better.It handles like you wish it could.It makes the car far more enjoyable flat out.It goes way beyond the ability to adjust the shocks.The decarbons are complete junk.There is no other way to put it.I have not met anyone who has put koni's on there car and not absolutely loved them.Are they worth the price you pay for them?
Hell yes.That was the best money I ever spent.I was shocked at the difference.If you can only do one thing to your suspension than get a great set of shocks.Remember you get what you pay for.

JD_AMG

First and fore most, you have a completely different car than an fbody with completely different suspension and suspension geometry.
Next, koni SA's are not $1000, a few years ago when I bought them they were $740, and now they are around ~$800.
And finally on an fbody the konis are like getting a brand new car. Its not that they are "stiffer" or "give you better traction" its the way they make the car feel, behave and perform. Its like going from driving a truck to driving a BMW.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I know a guy at the car meets I go to and he has a newer GTO(I think a 2004).He has 450 rwhp and some suspension mods.I asked him what shocks he was running and he said Koni's.He chuckled and said there was no comparison with the other shocks for his car. Like JD AMG said they are around $800.00.

Insane

well on strano parts the Koni 4/4 are 969.00.. so Idk where yall guys are buyin them for 800 but let me know!

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Koni's start @ $850/set for 4/3's. The 4/4's are $969. Koni's were on a huge sale the first part of this year at a significantly reduced price (never happened before, not sure it will ever happen again frankly).

Basically, what I'm telling you is my price isn't out line in the current market. I might not be the cheapest, but I'm in the mix and never the most expensive. And, unlike others, I'm here to help you setup and understand the damping changes.