Installed New Spohn Adjustable TA (LONG)
12-12-2003, 08:19 AM
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Installed New Spohn Adjustable TA (LONG) Well, I installed my new Spohn Adjustable TA w/ front Driveshaft safety loop yesteryday and thought I would share with you all about my experiences.
I started the install around 12:00 yesterday afternoon by jacking the front end up with a rented jack and placing the tires on rhino ramps (I had no TA in the car so I didn't want to try and drive it up on the ramps...not sure if that would damage anything or not) and then got the rear on jack stands.
I started off by greasing the fittings some more with a grease gun, then I got under the car, and then removed the four bolts that were holding the crossbrace to the tunnel.
Once that was off, I then removed the driveshaft. There are two U-clamps around the universal joints that have two screws in them. I removed those, then got a screw driver and pried the driveshaft forward until it was free.
Next step, I tried to get the TA arm attached to the differential but was having some problems because my stock TA was already off. This had caused the pumpkin to move up at a weird angle. After thinking about it for a moment, we decided that we needed to jack the front end up more so the angle of the tunnel would become more perpendicular to the rearend. This way we could could get the correct angle to slide the TA onto the diff. Once that was complete, I just dropped the two long bolts in for the moment to hold it in place. I then slid the driveshaft through the safety loop, and got it bolted down.
The next part we pulled on the TA to rotate the diff into the correct alignment, the bolted the Poly end of the TA to the crossmember. Once everything was bolted on, we tightened everything down to spec and used some loctight on all nuts and bolts for added protection.
Last but not least, I set my pinion angle to around 1.5 to 2 degrees.
Well...after cleaning up I took her out for a spin. I did notice more road noise while driving, but the car felt soooo much more tight in the rear. The tires gripped and wheel hop has been totally eliminated. I also noticed that when the car gets above 80 MPH, there is a vibration and noise that seems to eminate through the entire car. I'm thinking it maybe the stock y-pipe that is making it. When installing the crossbrace, I noticed that the drive shaft safety loop rested against the y-pipe. So, that maybe the cause of that.
Also, I have noticed when coming to a stop, if I am going slow, and I then pump the brake kind of hard, there is a harsh clunking noise near the shifter area. Is this normal for the new TA, or did I forget to tighten something? Because it seemed to start doing that noise when my stock TA broke.
Over all, this torque arm is bad a**. I didn't have any fitment issues, no grinding, just some problems getting the TA bolted up to the diff. Once thing lowered guys may watch out for, is the crossbrace hangs pretty low to clear the y-pipe configuration.
Anybody know what the banging is? Thanks all - Pat
I started the install around 12:00 yesterday afternoon by jacking the front end up with a rented jack and placing the tires on rhino ramps (I had no TA in the car so I didn't want to try and drive it up on the ramps...not sure if that would damage anything or not) and then got the rear on jack stands.
I started off by greasing the fittings some more with a grease gun, then I got under the car, and then removed the four bolts that were holding the crossbrace to the tunnel.
Once that was off, I then removed the driveshaft. There are two U-clamps around the universal joints that have two screws in them. I removed those, then got a screw driver and pried the driveshaft forward until it was free.
Next step, I tried to get the TA arm attached to the differential but was having some problems because my stock TA was already off. This had caused the pumpkin to move up at a weird angle. After thinking about it for a moment, we decided that we needed to jack the front end up more so the angle of the tunnel would become more perpendicular to the rearend. This way we could could get the correct angle to slide the TA onto the diff. Once that was complete, I just dropped the two long bolts in for the moment to hold it in place. I then slid the driveshaft through the safety loop, and got it bolted down.
The next part we pulled on the TA to rotate the diff into the correct alignment, the bolted the Poly end of the TA to the crossmember. Once everything was bolted on, we tightened everything down to spec and used some loctight on all nuts and bolts for added protection.
Last but not least, I set my pinion angle to around 1.5 to 2 degrees.
Well...after cleaning up I took her out for a spin. I did notice more road noise while driving, but the car felt soooo much more tight in the rear. The tires gripped and wheel hop has been totally eliminated. I also noticed that when the car gets above 80 MPH, there is a vibration and noise that seems to eminate through the entire car. I'm thinking it maybe the stock y-pipe that is making it. When installing the crossbrace, I noticed that the drive shaft safety loop rested against the y-pipe. So, that maybe the cause of that.
Also, I have noticed when coming to a stop, if I am going slow, and I then pump the brake kind of hard, there is a harsh clunking noise near the shifter area. Is this normal for the new TA, or did I forget to tighten something? Because it seemed to start doing that noise when my stock TA broke.
Over all, this torque arm is bad a**. I didn't have any fitment issues, no grinding, just some problems getting the TA bolted up to the diff. Once thing lowered guys may watch out for, is the crossbrace hangs pretty low to clear the y-pipe configuration.
Anybody know what the banging is? Thanks all - Pat
12-12-2003, 11:43 AM
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The loud clunking noise and vibration is normal for the Spohn TA. Try to really tighten all the bolts and it will help a little with the clunking but not eliminate it. You have to bend the crap out of the y-pipe so it won't hit the loop (I had stock y and it hit). The M6 will make more noise than the A4. I couldn't stand the Spohn clunking and vibration it had so I went with a different TA.
12-12-2003, 11:47 AM
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I don't mind the vibration and some of the noises, it's just the clunking that I'm afraid of...it feels like one of those noises that will damage something down the road. Thanks for the reply. - Pat
12-12-2003, 04:55 PM
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on the clunking, make sure you tightened both of the bolts on the front mount, it takes 1 1/8" rench if I recall, and will take two people to get enough leverage on them, also make sure you tightened the bolts that hold the rear part of the torque arm to the rear diff.
12-13-2003, 02:51 AM
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That is wierd...the instructions said to leave the top bolt on the front mount at 30 ft/lbs...I'm going to get under there tmorrow morning and get everything torqued down real tight. Thanks everyone. - PAT
12-15-2003, 06:00 PM
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30 ft lbs is a pretty decent amount, but it's the lower one you need to make sure to check, it will feel tight due to the type of lock nut they use.... you wouldn't wasnt the top one too tight or you will smoosh the poly busshing..
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12-17-2003, 08:11 AM
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Yeah...the day I had the arm on the car...I went to about 140 and the vibration was really bad...the entire car was vibrating (now I know what the batteries feel like in a vibrator...lol). When I change my oil I'm going to get back under there and try to adjust it again. Thanks again for everyone's help.
Patrick
Patrick