ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Ok so this is my dilemma. When I'm driving and apply the brakes, the steering wheel/whole car shakes and I can feel like unevenness in the brake pedal. This occurs more violently at higher speeds, like on the highway.

I've concluded that my rotors are warped. I have the stock ones in the rear and Baer drilled/slotted rotors in the front that I put on about a year and a half ago. Now what I wanted to do was just have all the rotors resurfaced. I got some quotes and basically it will cost $100 to do them if I just drop off my car and have them do all the labor, but if I bring them just the rotors it will be only $30. Problem is I don't have any jack stands so I can't take all the wheels off myself.

My dad on the other hand wants to just get me new rotors for the front. However I know he is going to go to Autozone and get the cheapest rotors they have for my car ($30 each) that come with a "warranty" (I highly doubt this covers warping though). But I'm concerned that these won't perform as good as my Baers if they were turned, and that since they're low quality they might rust, etc. Also I'm not sure if my rear rotors are warped, so even if I get new fronts I don't know if that will totally solve the problem.

Comments? I don't know a whole lot about brakes.

vette0009

#1 Just get the Baers re-turned
like you said probably a higher quality rotor
#2 Buy A Good set of jackstands
I use 3 and 6 ton jackstands from Sears
Also pick up a low profile race style aluminum jack from Harbor freight or sears
#3 research and study as well as ask as many questions as you can regarding jacking,chocking, or otherwise securing your vehicle while in the air.

Saftey is the #1 Thing you need to know when it comes to Automotive repair.

I recently put my Z06 36" in the air using only jackstands and the car was very secure

and had a few fail safes in place just in case something went wrong .






Von

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks. I've been needing to get a jack and some stands, this is probably a good time. Will 2 ton stands be ok or should I go with 3?

Engine_HP

iTrader: (1)

Resurface ur rotors with new pads and ull be fine

Racin'Z28

iTrader: (7)

The bigger or wider the base the better. If there isn't a big difference in price for the 3, just get those. Sears sells some good ones for not a lot of money. Just get the ones with the widest base you can afford, and that will likely be the ones that hold more weight.

And I agree on just getting the Baer's turned with pads, it should solve your problem.
You should do the brakes yourself and save the money. It's not really hard to do. Learning how to do it will not only save you money now, but everytime the car needs something with brakes, you'll save money again and again. If you're not sure on how to take it all apart, just do a little reading here on ls1tech and you'll find a "how to" on just about everything. Also, get a Chiltons manual for your car. They're invaluable. Later you can get some true service manuals that the dealers use for repairs, but chiltons or whatever brand is good enough to start. They're only like $20 or something. The only way to learn is to just dive in and start doing it. That's how I've learned most of it, you just start doing it (after lots of reading on ls1tech.com)

Good luck.

(By the way, nice color and nice rims, the cars are almost twins)

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I already have a Haynes manual for my car so I think that should be able to guide me through it. I'll head down to Sears sometime this week. And yea racin'z28 our cars look pretty much the same lol, but get those mirrors painted!

PHOEN1XV8

Its also worth noting that if you're gonna get jack stands, its worth shelling out a little extra for the "ratchet" type instead of the stands that just have a couple holes in them that you slot a bar through.

Also, a couple small peices of wood between the jack and the underside of your car helps protect the underseal/anti rust. If you don't use these, changes are your jack will scuff off the underseal and it will begin to rust in no time.

Finally, take your front discs to be resurfaced first, you have to be trying real hard to warp rear discs as they only do approximately 30% of the braking whereas the fronts do around 70%

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

if your vibration is bad, I would just get new rotors. They are not that expensive, and 100% sure your vibration will go away. If the rotors are really warped, depending on how beat they are... who knows how many cuts it will take to get through them. on my own cars I always put new rotors on... just my 2 cents

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

On one had, I'd agree with you, as I always like to use "new" parts whenever possible.

BUT....


99%of the rotors you buy today, especially the "garden variety" parts store rotors, are made in China, POS. Yes, they have a warranty, but if you drive the car in any kind of "spirited" manner, be prepared to take full advantage of that warranty, and get VERY familiar with the process of rotor swapping.


The OP mentioned that he had Baer rotors. They are 'top shelf" pieces, and I'd do whatever possible to maintain them. Possibly having a regular machine shop "blanchard grinding" them, instead of a parts store turn and cut.

Secondly, many of the Baer rotors are a "2 piece" design. The rotors are bolted to a "hat", which mounts to the hubs. Look closely at your rotors and see if they're the 2 piece design. If they are, just replace the rotor portion of the assembly....

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

even if baer are 'top shelf'......theyre drilled rotors. hence they warped, and im surprised they havent cracked yet. dump the garbage drilled/slotted rotors, they do NOTHING for stopping power. read the dozens of stickies and threads on that. id much rather have a set of no-name blank rotors on my car then anything with holes in it.

dont forget to bleed the brakes if you do a brake job.

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

I get my rotors from my uncle, I forget the brand. he gets them from National Auto Parts (NOT NAPA), and I think they are close to OEM replacements. I have no vibration at all with mine. and yeah, drilled/slotted are silly.

ncfastls1

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I take it the rears shouldn't really need it? I don't know if it makes a difference but the vibration I feel definitely seems like it's coming from the front brakes. I'll probably just do the front and have them bleed the brakes, god knows when the last time that has been done on my car. Not since I've owned it haha. And I think the rotors are two piece...I'm not positive but I'll check when they take the rotors off. Thanks for the input everyone.

DriftR

iTrader: (4)

Well, I'm kinda surprised it hasn't been mentioned but modern rotors are not really meant to be re-cut. To get any kind of warping out you will be close to the low limit of the rotors thickness after turning. Besides, when you cut them the warping will come back. The thinner rotor will heat up quicker and warp again. There are also different densities in the metal that contribute to warping and uneven wear and that will come back as well. If your feeling the vibration in the steering wheel, it is the front rotors.
I suggest you check out Sam Strano's site... he is a knowledgable sponsor. >

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

warping isnt just from heat. you can drop a rotor and it will warp. ive had brand new brembo blanks, fresh out of the box with absolute zero miles on them, already be warped bad enough it was undrivable at the track and needed to be cut.

02CamaroSSLE

iTrader: (5)

umm i believe they do help keep the rotor cool, but with drilled rotors they crack after a while or for whatever reason might be from a spirited run... on the other hand they do look a hell of a lot better than no names as long as you get the zinc plated ones... my friend has had drilled and slotted rotors on his car for 3 years now and the holes have hairline cracks on them but stop like no other... i would get them instead of the no names but get jack stands first!

and whats the reasoning for him to bleed the brakes?

smcnealy

Well, he heated the rotors to warping, so fluid could be old/damaged as well. I'm betting it's just old (maybe never replaced?), but it's real easy to do while you've got the tires off already.

Throw new pads at the front while you're at it since it's got to get done sometime and that's super easy when you're replacing rotors. I'd be tempted to replace even month old pads.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

no, holes dont keep the rotor cool. this topic has been beaten to death, and im really getting tired of reiterating the points in thread after thread. read the stickies at the top of this section. its proven knowledge drilled rotors do NOTHING for performance. they dont stop better, dont keep it cooler, they do NOTHING AT ALL. brake ducts are the only thing that will ever actually 'cool' a rotor.

and reasoning for bleeding brakes?? why the hell not?? youre supposed to bleed every time you push the caliper piston in, which is required nearly 99.99999% of the time when changing brakes. not to mention the fluid is more then likely original from 2002, and should absolutely be flushed and changed regardless of doing brakes now or not.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I've seen a few HP Porsches that had drilled and slotted rotors from the factory, but I guess that the Porsche engineers did it just for looks....actually, from what I've read, the holes help give water a place to escape during wet driving.

With respect to bleeding the brakes, I bleed them a minimum of once a year, and that's on all four of the family cars, as well as my "winter beater" 4X4.....

02CamaroSSLE

iTrader: (5)

i read the sticky about the drilled and slotted rotors that is why i said just get them for looks if anything... bleeding the brakes does absolutely nothing... they also say to change your powersteering fluid every what 10K or is that 50K too... diff oil 50K and trans oil 50K, do you do all that too? only reason you bleed the brakes is cause you had to open a line or replaced the master cylinder...

DriftR

iTrader: (4)

We're getting a little off topic but bleeding the brakes is beneficial on a regular basis because brake fluid is "hygroscopic" meaning it absorbs water over time which decreases the boiling point which in turn degrades braking and increases corrosion among aother things.

You don't have to open a line or do anything for this to happen... Nature of the beast, race fluids need to be changed even more frequently!

It will also be extremely difficult to have the front rotors turned if they are drilled/slotted. Most, if not all places will refuse to cut them!