many questions
many questions well i have owned the car for about 3 years now and I have never touched the suspension. I plan on lowering it but i want to know what supporting to pieces to do as well so here are my questions.
Adjustable or non adjustable LCAs and Panhard bar? and why
Bolt in or weld in sub frame connectors and what style?
are LCA relocating kits necessary with lowering the car?
are strut tower braces worth the money?
and what brand(s) do you recommend?
thanks for all the help everybody!
Adjustable or non adjustable LCAs and Panhard bar? and why
Bolt in or weld in sub frame connectors and what style?
are LCA relocating kits necessary with lowering the car?
are strut tower braces worth the money?
and what brand(s) do you recommend?
thanks for all the help everybody!
Last edited by 67camarors; Jan 18, 2010 at 08:35 PM.
these are some of the most commonly asked questions in this section, so you'll find a TON of information if you search. there's way too much information on here to warrant me having to type out my reasoning for each of these (i have many many times in the past, and you will find them in your searches) but here is the quick answer IMO:
LCA's: non adjustable with UMI's new rotojoint on one side, or adjustable with a rod end on at least one side.
SFC's: weld in.
RB's: most of the time. not always though. strano springs for example have a softer rear so launching will not be hindered as much as with other springs.
STB's: highly debated, but i don't think so. they look good but don't do a ton for most people.
LCA's: non adjustable with UMI's new rotojoint on one side, or adjustable with a rod end on at least one side.
SFC's: weld in.
RB's: most of the time. not always though. strano springs for example have a softer rear so launching will not be hindered as much as with other springs.
STB's: highly debated, but i don't think so. they look good but don't do a ton for most people.
Hello
Before anyone will be able to give you any suggestions if we are going to need to know what your plans are for the vehicle? Are you going to be using a aftermarket rear? What type of HP numbers does the vehicle have? For what you are asking there are so many different combos that could be recommended but I would think you only want to spend your hard earned money once. Get back to me with that info and I will be more than glad to get you suggestions.
Thanks
Brad
Before anyone will be able to give you any suggestions if we are going to need to know what your plans are for the vehicle? Are you going to be using a aftermarket rear? What type of HP numbers does the vehicle have? For what you are asking there are so many different combos that could be recommended but I would think you only want to spend your hard earned money once. Get back to me with that info and I will be more than glad to get you suggestions.
Thanks
Brad
with stock parts, i was able to feel a big difference with a stb, even simple 2 point. i love it and is the cheapest mod ive done to my car with noticeable gains
edit: i feel it most around corners, car doesnt seem to lean, wobble as much... front is more solid
edit: i feel it most around corners, car doesnt seem to lean, wobble as much... front is more solid
Hello
Before anyone will be able to give you any suggestions if we are going to need to know what your plans are for the vehicle? Are you going to be using a aftermarket rear? What type of HP numbers does the vehicle have? For what you are asking there are so many different combos that could be recommended but I would think you only want to spend your hard earned money once. Get back to me with that info and I will be more than glad to get you suggestions.
Thanks
Brad
Before anyone will be able to give you any suggestions if we are going to need to know what your plans are for the vehicle? Are you going to be using a aftermarket rear? What type of HP numbers does the vehicle have? For what you are asking there are so many different combos that could be recommended but I would think you only want to spend your hard earned money once. Get back to me with that info and I will be more than glad to get you suggestions.
Thanks
Brad
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Hello
For your set up I would recommend the list below and why.
2205- To allow you adjust your pinion angle and to clear your exhaust.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
201529- To eliminate the factory stamped peices and help with your traction performance.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
2012- To allow you adjust your lower control arm to also improve your traction performance and help eliminate wheel hop.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
2001/2002- To allow you to make the chassis much stronger and eliminate the dimples off of the quarter panels and helps with weight transfer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
And when you get around 425-450 hp I would highly suggest going with a transmission relocation cross member to eliminate any issues with possibly breaking the tail shaft. Below is a link to show you what all we have too offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
For your set up I would recommend the list below and why.
2205- To allow you adjust your pinion angle and to clear your exhaust.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
201529- To eliminate the factory stamped peices and help with your traction performance.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
2012- To allow you adjust your lower control arm to also improve your traction performance and help eliminate wheel hop.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
2001/2002- To allow you to make the chassis much stronger and eliminate the dimples off of the quarter panels and helps with weight transfer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
And when you get around 425-450 hp I would highly suggest going with a transmission relocation cross member to eliminate any issues with possibly breaking the tail shaft. Below is a link to show you what all we have too offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...437ugipk3dql60
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad
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Verdad Gallardo thanks brad for all fo the help! just out of curiosity, can i expect to see gains at the track from a bett4er suspension set up? and are non adjustable lower control arms still going to be useful even if i lower the car?
you don't need adjustable lca's when you lower. the rear won't (or shouldn't) move forward or back in the wheel well. adjustable is great for for aftermarket rears and unfortunately my lca relocation brackets shifted my rear back so i used them to correct it. the main reason so many people used to go with adjustable was because of the rod ends. they were the only option that didn't cause bind. now with the roto-joint you have another option so you don't need to go adjustable.
Thanks for the question. Think about it this way you are replacing a stamped piece of metal with a solid tubular piece with poly bushings. You are getting rid of the rubber (guaranteed to be shot) bushings. We did a install of the 2012. 1015 and a 2205 and SFC's and the car was completely stock but the cam went low 12's. It just all depends in the end on what you plans are for the vehicle hp wise. Like mentioned above the adjustable s are for running either bigger tires to center in the wheel well, or to eliminate any binding issues when using a aftermarket rear end.
Hope that helps
Thanks
Brad