passenger caliper seized.. wtf do i do
04-10-2010, 07:05 PM
#3
man.... $30 is the way to go.
you don't want to know what hell i went through to get that rust welded child-of-satan guide pin free from my caliper.
however, if you're feeling particularly masochistic, you can start with unloading a can of pb blaster on it, and breaking out a torch to heat that thing. the rest... you wont remember, but your neighbors will still be talking about it years later.
you don't want to know what hell i went through to get that rust welded child-of-satan guide pin free from my caliper.
however, if you're feeling particularly masochistic, you can start with unloading a can of pb blaster on it, and breaking out a torch to heat that thing. the rest... you wont remember, but your neighbors will still be talking about it years later.
04-10-2010, 10:02 PM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
ok, hell just happened... lol guys listen to the story that me and my bud had to do.
anyway.. he came over at 230ish.. we did the slp grill 80% of the way and got pissed off and stopped because the xmas tree fasteners werent working but thats a whole story within itself.. (i have to slowly make each hole bigger until they all go in snug.. i will finish it tomorrow)
first of all, my lock-lug nut was basically hanging there, not even tightened... and i thought back to the last time i had the car touched by a mechanic, and it was last year at KOST in central ny and the moron kid who worked on my car was the last one to touch it.. thus, my freaking lug nut was loose as hell and i've been driving on it for months...
as for the brakes, we went to work on getting the pistons back into the caliper and the one went in fine, and then the second one was seized up.. and we were freaking out cuz we've never had that happen to us amateurs.. ended up nailing it with a hammer trying to get it back in.. didnt even budge. kept messing with it for hours and then called around all the parts stores and advance auto parts had the caliper for $40 if you bring them your core..
we brought them the core and bought the caliper, put it on, went back together great!
on to the front drivers side, THE SAME FREAKIN PROBLEM HAPPENED. it was 8:40 at night and we remembered advance had the drivers side caliper too!.. so we FLEW back to advance and got the part and put it on
i CAN NOT BELIEVE BOTH calipers had this problem. i hope the rears dont give us nearly as much trouble on tuesday
anyway.. he came over at 230ish.. we did the slp grill 80% of the way and got pissed off and stopped because the xmas tree fasteners werent working but thats a whole story within itself.. (i have to slowly make each hole bigger until they all go in snug.. i will finish it tomorrow)
first of all, my lock-lug nut was basically hanging there, not even tightened... and i thought back to the last time i had the car touched by a mechanic, and it was last year at KOST in central ny and the moron kid who worked on my car was the last one to touch it.. thus, my freaking lug nut was loose as hell and i've been driving on it for months...
as for the brakes, we went to work on getting the pistons back into the caliper and the one went in fine, and then the second one was seized up.. and we were freaking out cuz we've never had that happen to us amateurs.. ended up nailing it with a hammer trying to get it back in.. didnt even budge. kept messing with it for hours and then called around all the parts stores and advance auto parts had the caliper for $40 if you bring them your core..
we brought them the core and bought the caliper, put it on, went back together great!
on to the front drivers side, THE SAME FREAKIN PROBLEM HAPPENED. it was 8:40 at night and we remembered advance had the drivers side caliper too!.. so we FLEW back to advance and got the part and put it on
i CAN NOT BELIEVE BOTH calipers had this problem. i hope the rears dont give us nearly as much trouble on tuesday
04-10-2010, 10:43 PM
#5
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i dont want to second guess you, but are you sure both sides froze. thats pretty fn coincidental. ive always used a c clamp and old brake pad to push the piston back. i dont really see a hammer working too well.
04-11-2010, 07:35 PM
#7
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did you open the bleeder when trying to press the piston back in? If you didn't, you should.
Clamp the rubber hose off before the caliper, open the bleeder, and then press the piston back in. This will keep you from pushing the nasty old brake fluid back through the system.
When you get your new pads in there, all you should have to do is release the clamp and open the bleeder. You shouldn't even have to have a helper to bleed them. Just leave the bleeder open with a catch pan underneath and let it go until no more bubbles come out.
Clamp the rubber hose off before the caliper, open the bleeder, and then press the piston back in. This will keep you from pushing the nasty old brake fluid back through the system.
When you get your new pads in there, all you should have to do is release the clamp and open the bleeder. You shouldn't even have to have a helper to bleed them. Just leave the bleeder open with a catch pan underneath and let it go until no more bubbles come out.
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04-11-2010, 07:56 PM
#8
did you open the bleeder when trying to press the piston back in? If you didn't, you should.
Clamp the rubber hose off before the caliper, open the bleeder, and then press the piston back in. This will keep you from pushing the nasty old brake fluid back through the system.
Clamp the rubber hose off before the caliper, open the bleeder, and then press the piston back in. This will keep you from pushing the nasty old brake fluid back through the system.
NEVER clamp off a rubber brake hose, you will collapse it internally and it will be ruined.
04-11-2010, 09:07 PM
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
and yes we tried opening the bleeder valve and THAT DIDNT EVEN SQUIRT OUT ANY FLUID. they were toast.it was just hilarous how we wasted 4 hours (basically) screwing around with the passenger one and then realized the REAL problem of the caliper piston being seized...
we go to do the drivers side one, realize the problem immediately, run and get the part, and have it done in a half hour.
04-12-2010, 07:18 PM
#10
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Matco part# LCS4
Mac part # BHC96420
Its good advice, maybe you should go to school before telling someone it is horrible advice.
04-13-2010, 10:40 PM
#12
You don't pinch off brake hoses, I don't care who makes a tool to do it. They aren't designed to be kinked or pinched off. No manufacturer procedure is going to tell you to do that.
The only time its acceptable to pinch off a brake hose is when its going to be replaced.
Last edited by Wesmanw02; 04-13-2010 at 10:50 PM.
04-14-2010, 08:41 AM
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
yeah i took my front caliper cores to advance auto and they gave me new/rebuilt ones for only $85 total for 2...
so as an update, yesterday when i came home from work my bud and I tore into the rear brakes to get them done..
we had them done in a half hour tops and everything went smooth as butter. only problem was the passenger rear rotor needing coaxing to get off the car
and yet again, one of my rear rim's lock nut lug nut was only hand tight.. i will never take my car to KOST again (NYS auto chain repair shop locally owned)
these rotoworks cross/drilled rotors paired with Hawk HPS pads seems to be a great cost effective solution to old brakes.
i'm really pleased so far
and plus i feel 100% safer riding in a car with front brakes actually working now.
so as an update, yesterday when i came home from work my bud and I tore into the rear brakes to get them done..
we had them done in a half hour tops and everything went smooth as butter. only problem was the passenger rear rotor needing coaxing to get off the car
and yet again, one of my rear rim's lock nut lug nut was only hand tight.. i will never take my car to KOST again (NYS auto chain repair shop locally owned)these rotoworks cross/drilled rotors paired with Hawk HPS pads seems to be a great cost effective solution to old brakes.
i'm really pleased so far
and plus i feel 100% safer riding in a car with front brakes actually working now.
04-14-2010, 09:23 PM
#14
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Interestingly enough I've been to school and I'm an ASE certified tech.
You don't pinch off brake hoses, I don't care who makes a tool to do it. They aren't designed to be kinked or pinched off. No manufacturer procedure is going to tell you to do that.
The only time its acceptable to pinch off a brake hose is when its going to be replaced.
You don't pinch off brake hoses, I don't care who makes a tool to do it. They aren't designed to be kinked or pinched off. No manufacturer procedure is going to tell you to do that.
The only time its acceptable to pinch off a brake hose is when its going to be replaced.
04-15-2010, 05:51 PM
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
i'm not a tech but logically i dont think itd be wise to clamp brake hoses..
when we were taking off the caliper we werent really sure how to do it without getting brake fluid all over the place.. i thought it was going to squirt out of the hose under pressure... really all i needed to do was hang it upsidedown with cardboard under it and it didnt really drip much while i went and got the new caliper..
did that on both sides and worked great
when we were taking off the caliper we werent really sure how to do it without getting brake fluid all over the place.. i thought it was going to squirt out of the hose under pressure... really all i needed to do was hang it upsidedown with cardboard under it and it didnt really drip much while i went and got the new caliper..
did that on both sides and worked great
04-16-2010, 06:25 AM
#17
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...n/image002.jpg
Using the existing banjo seals (copper washers), run a 3/8" x 1" bolt through the banjo fitting and tighten down the nut.
System sealed ... no pinching, no potential damaged hoses and very little mess.
While 99345 may've pinched hoses hundreds of times, I venture a guess its ONE time on HUNDREDS of cars and not hundreds of times on ONE car. Big difference.
You might get away with it once, but pinching that hose just a few times will weaken and crack the rubber and teflon.
Using the existing banjo seals (copper washers), run a 3/8" x 1" bolt through the banjo fitting and tighten down the nut.
System sealed ... no pinching, no potential damaged hoses and very little mess.
While 99345 may've pinched hoses hundreds of times, I venture a guess its ONE time on HUNDREDS of cars and not hundreds of times on ONE car. Big difference.
You might get away with it once, but pinching that hose just a few times will weaken and crack the rubber and teflon.
04-16-2010, 08:39 AM
#18
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No issues like this with the OReilly ones? I probably need to get a new caliper the next time I have to bleed the last Fenco I have left on my car. I might just go with GM for 125 bucks
04-16-2010, 04:13 PM
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When I rebuilt the front calipers on my '97 Z the pistons came out but didn't want to go back in. Considering the force that I used with the c-clamp I used putting them back in, I couldn't imagine that they were actually going to work but they did and continue to work fine to this day (and yes, I did lubricate the seals with brake fluid first).