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K Member + Daily Driver??

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Old 05-11-2010, 09:59 AM
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For a trailered car, use whatever you want.

For a car that might just see a weld fail a few hundred
miles from home (or said trailer), you want to be a little
more particular about how the piece is built.

Nobody guarantees nuthin', when it comes to performance
suspension parts on the street, so it's all on you - no
matter what the marketing happy-talk.
Old 05-11-2010, 10:29 AM
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Daily driver my ***... you're planning on running wheelies down the strip with that
Old 05-11-2010, 12:47 PM
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I daily long distance drive with a UMI road race and custom HTP solid motor mounts. No complaints compared to factory, only feels much more solid. Did the upper and lower arms as well and I like it. Hard to directly tell you why I like it but I do, and its lighter- Cause The OP and I were thinkin similar - shed weight.
Old 05-11-2010, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BuffJoeyD
I daily long distance drive with a UMI road race and custom HTP solid motor mounts. No complaints compared to factory, only feels much more solid. Did the upper and lower arms as well and I like it. Hard to directly tell you why I like it but I do, and its lighter- Cause The OP and I were thinkin similar - shed weight.
That is similar to the setup I'm considering. Right now, I'm thinking UMI non-road race with the lower arms. The reasoning behind this is reliability first, and weight savings second. I'd love to run one that was a little lighter, but for a car I have to depend on, a 4lb difference isn't worth a breakdown. I also can't wait to have the extra room to work.
Old 05-11-2010, 04:14 PM
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I've never heard of someone having a failed weld or their tubular suspension becoming brittle. Not saying it couldn't happen but I'd imagine these companies wouldn't be in business long if motors are falling through..lol.
Old 05-11-2010, 08:06 PM
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I'm driving on a failed K-member that I fixed myself.
There are others out there who've posted about
broken K-members. And torque arms, and....
Old 05-11-2010, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I'm driving on a failed K-member that I fixed myself.
There are others out there who've posted about
broken K-members. And torque arms, and....
Did a search, I saw that....
Old 05-11-2010, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by z28bryan
Daily driver my ***... you're planning on running wheelies down the strip with that
Why can't I do both?
Old 05-11-2010, 09:36 PM
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The breakages is what worries me. I want to do the upper/lower arms and k member, but which brand is less prone to failure? Anyone ever have a thread that compared the strengths of various brands to what they weighed?
Old 05-11-2010, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I'm driving on a failed K-member that I fixed myself.
There are others out there who've posted about
broken K-members. And torque arms, and....
I'm wondering if that's because the car was a pig? I'd think those things would be less prone to fail on a lighter car.
Old 05-11-2010, 11:03 PM
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its been said a million times already, but everyone's lower a-arms shock mount design seems to bend, but UMI redesigned it so it is pretty much bullet proof. When I had mine bent, UMI promtly fixed it.
Old 05-12-2010, 08:12 AM
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Hello
No matter who you talk to they have there own opinion about certain companies. But One thing about UMI Performance if there is a problem with one of our products and as long as it is within the 2 year warranty we stand behind our products 100%. Before we offer anything to our customers our products go through a extensive amount of testing on our own personal vehicles. If anyone has any other questions feel free to ask.
Thanks
Brad
Old 05-12-2010, 09:43 AM
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A lightweight aftermarket K-member that isn't as structurally sound as the stock k-member seems like a little bit of overkill for a daily driver.. but that's just me. I've seen some people who have gutted stripped interiors and say it's their grocery getter
Old 05-12-2010, 01:43 PM
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Hard to say, I want to drop weight but keep all the interior panels, I don't want the car to look like garbage. There is the thing though, how much weight do the varying brands drop vs. complaints of breakage? They should be able to make it structurally sound. I've got to drop some weight for that iron block I'm dragging around. Less weight, better handling/braking correct? Slightly probably un-noticeable drop in fuel consumption with less weight? Less wear and tear? I want all the above.
Old 05-12-2010, 02:03 PM
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i run the BMR k member and upper and lower a arms for years now and i daliy drive my car and drive it hard on the street and track, NO issues here and in CT the roads are complete ****... 100% confidence in BMR products
Old 05-15-2010, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by thechef
i run the BMR k member and upper and lower a arms for years now and i daliy drive my car and drive it hard on the street and track, NO issues here and in CT the roads are complete ****... 100% confidence in BMR products

I recently bought a Camaro with a BMR K member and control arms and so far so good... Daily driven and sometimes abused.

Roads around here are crap too. Car is nice and solid.

Seems real nice!
Old 05-17-2010, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by thechef
i run the BMR k member and upper and lower a arms for years now and i daliy drive my car and drive it hard on the street and track, NO issues here and in CT the roads are complete ****... 100% confidence in BMR products
Originally Posted by bowtied1
I recently bought a Camaro with a BMR K member and control arms and so far so good... Daily driven and sometimes abused.

Roads around here are crap too. Car is nice and solid.

Seems real nice!
Good to hear the parts are tacking the abuse

BMR K-members are backed by our 2 year warranty to be free from defects in material and workmanship.

We also offer the widest variety of K-members for every application....
Old 05-18-2010, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Johns00Z28
I'm not sure where you got that info from. My control arms and panhard bar are both chrome moly and I daily drive my car and run low 11's w/ it without a problem.
When I bought my tubular K member from AJE, I asked him which I should go with he said if you drive your car on the street mild steel, it isn't as prone to breaking because of the various conditions of the roads, if you hit a pot hole hard or a solid road titty something in the K member is going to be toast. I have run both and never had a problem cracking, but my next K member will be mild steel again.
Old 05-18-2010, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by prochargedpony
When I bought my tubular K member from AJE, I asked him which I should go with he said if you drive your car on the street mild steel, it isn't as prone to breaking because of the various conditions of the roads, if you hit a pot hole hard or a solid road titty something in the K member is going to be toast. I have run both and never had a problem cracking, but my next K member will be mild steel again.
It's my understanding that chrome moly is just as strong as steel while weighing less. But I certainly wouldn't want to pay that much money for one only to have it break..lol.
Old 05-18-2010, 03:46 PM
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That is what I thought also. If chrome moly is so quick to break, wouldn't I have seen it in my torque arm or lower control arms, or the panhard rod, or does the k member take that much more shock than those components?


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