Strut-Tower Brace? 
Strut-Tower Brace?
Hey:
Basically, the main thing it real world helps is getting rid of squeaks and flex in the front. You can see this on road race cars when they transition in sweepers to tight corners to straights. Subframe connectors do more help than STB's do IMHO, by a lot. ADJ Tubular, LCAs and PHB are a better investment as well, if you plan on keeping the car. It should be the next to last thing you need chassis wise, just prior to a rear shock tower bar, on a very long list of things to make your car handle better and after all other things have been exhausted. On A street car may help in a front side accident, but the car will still be probably totaled anyway. Main upsides, cheap to buy, easy to put on.
Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Basically, the main thing it real world helps is getting rid of squeaks and flex in the front. You can see this on road race cars when they transition in sweepers to tight corners to straights. Subframe connectors do more help than STB's do IMHO, by a lot. ADJ Tubular, LCAs and PHB are a better investment as well, if you plan on keeping the car. It should be the next to last thing you need chassis wise, just prior to a rear shock tower bar, on a very long list of things to make your car handle better and after all other things have been exhausted. On A street car may help in a front side accident, but the car will still be probably totaled anyway. Main upsides, cheap to buy, easy to put on.
Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
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Changed the shocks recently to Konis and did not put the slp STB back on until after a few drives to make sure everything was ok. I drove on a challenging rippled road with dips, sweepers etc to make sure I had them dialed in stiffer than the bilsteins. Well, on the rippled, not washboard by any means, doing 35-40 mph, the front end moved back and forth (wandered slightly) where it did not before on this stretch. This is one of my favourite places to drive -scenic, fun etc so this is a direct before and after comparo! I put the STB back on shortly thereafter (a few days) and drove that same road not even thinking about my previous drive. Only after exiting that corner with the ripples did I notice an improvement in the steering of the car- more precise, no wander, held the line etc. This was my second shock change and I recall going through this before. Other than this experience, I can't say for sure if the STB does a lot. This road is my "shake down" road wth challenges not present in my other haunts. Anyhow, it goes wthout saying, the STB is on to stay. BTW this bar is very light - less than 5lbs for sure so that the gain in driving feel is worth it for me. Others have said the extra weight is not worth it for them.
The only thing i have noticed having one is my 98 Z-28 i did not have one on and i put skinnies on the car w/ no swaybar and the car was all over the place but the car i have now w/ a strut tower brace and skinnies w/ no front swaybar handles fine.So the only thing i can say is it does something.
The first suspension/chassis mod I did was add a strut brace, and immediately after I noticed the difference in U-Turns, sharp turns, cornering, lane changes, the wheels just feel like they track so much more accurately.
If you care about appearance, Hotchkis polished is definitely the nicest looking.
If you care about appearance, Hotchkis polished is definitely the nicest looking.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Jul 5, 2010 at 12:22 PM.
I would do it first, since it is SO easy.
Rear shock tower brace? Who makes them for 4th Gens? Have not seen any, nor do I recall anyone having them installed... Seems rather unlikely that it would serve much purpose in the rear?
Rear shock tower brace? Who makes them for 4th Gens? Have not seen any, nor do I recall anyone having them installed... Seems rather unlikely that it would serve much purpose in the rear?
Hey:
Basically, the main thing it real world helps is getting rid of squeaks and flex in the front. You can see this on road race cars when they transition in sweepers to tight corners to straights. Subframe connectors do more help than STB's do IMHO, by a lot. ADJ Tubular, LCAs and PHB are a better investment as well, if you plan on keeping the car. It should be the next to last thing you need chassis wise, just prior to a rear shock tower bar, on a very long list of things to make your car handle better and after all other things have been exhausted. On A street car may help in a front side accident, but the car will still be probably totaled anyway. Main upsides, cheap to buy, easy to put on.
Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Basically, the main thing it real world helps is getting rid of squeaks and flex in the front. You can see this on road race cars when they transition in sweepers to tight corners to straights. Subframe connectors do more help than STB's do IMHO, by a lot. ADJ Tubular, LCAs and PHB are a better investment as well, if you plan on keeping the car. It should be the next to last thing you need chassis wise, just prior to a rear shock tower bar, on a very long list of things to make your car handle better and after all other things have been exhausted. On A street car may help in a front side accident, but the car will still be probably totaled anyway. Main upsides, cheap to buy, easy to put on.
Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Over the years this has definitely become a somewhat controversial mod. 12 years ago when we originally developed the strut tower brace for the 4th gen we measured almost 1/4" of strut tower movement on our test car equipped with higher rate springs and soft compound tires. If I remember correctly we were seeing over 1/8" movement even on the car in stock form when driven aggressively. If you are a drag racer, don't worry about it but if you like to push the car in the corners, it's probably the best $65 you'll spend....
