redtransam95

iTrader: (7)

whats a good brand for bushings and upper ball joint for fbody that holds up

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Moog for the ball joint, and nothing else but Moog. For the bushings, you need to consider the roads where you live, and will do the most of your driving. If the roads are fairly smooth, poly bushings will give you a firmer feel, but they're a bit harsher than rubber. If the roads are pretty rough, go with Moog replacement rubber bushings.

redtransam95

iTrader: (7)

thank you also whats a easy way to remove lower ball joint and bushings?

Carter Hays

A press. Any competent shop will know what to do. That type of work is cheap when you bring them the parts vs the whole car.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

polys are easy to install.......i did my own lower ball joints......if i had to do it again i would have had the dealer do it

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Try this link....



http://www.otctools.com/products/ball_joint_service_kit



I bought one of these about 30 years ago, not cheap, but a very good investment.

redtransam95

iTrader: (7)

do energy suspenton bushings come with the actual metal center bushing for lowers?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

There seems to be a couple of differing opinions on this. The ES poly bushing sets that I've purchased over the course of time have come with the outer shells. Others here, have inquired about "burning out" the OE rubber bushings, which leads me to think that they're getting just the bushing only, w/o the shell.

You mention the "metal center bushing"...I've never seen them come without that part...

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

the ES polys do not come with shells......if they need shells the stockers are reused......or they are removed depending on if it is upper or lower

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i tried one of those........but the angles on the lower arm wont let it stay on......it wants to slip......ended up using a large press........2 man operation......the GM tool holds the arm steady and supports it so it wont slip or get damaged...thats why i say let a dealer do it...i bent my arm a little in that press

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I've always left the lower control arms bolted to the car, when I've used the OTC press to remove the ball joint. By doing it that way, you're not fighting to hold the arm steady, and turn the jackscrew at the same time.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

the arm was off the car and in a vise......it was the ball joint press that wanted to move cuz when you tighten it ........it wanted to slip off the arm because of the slope on the arm

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I guess I have to stand corrected. I just looked up the ES bushings on their site, and at least the uppers, don't come with the outer shells. I first had them in my car ('96 Z-28, purchased in the fall of '95) back in either '96 or '97, then took them out, then put them back in last year, when I stopped using it as a DD. Therefore, if I did have to press out the OE rubber parts, it simply slipped my mind over the years...

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

I went with Strano offset bushings for my upper A-arms. It was nice to gain a bit more negative camber but if you don't need it than most any poly upper a-arm bushing will do.