I'm amazed at the difference a torque arm can make.
#21
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But then again, I'm not rolling with 470rwhp like the Alchemist ... not even 370.
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#25
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Having a sway bar that's extremely stiff, and preloaded on the right side to offset launch torque, can help quite a bit. You're still fighting against body roll, just roll generated due to engine torque rather than hard cornering.
#27
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I just put on a UMI transmission mount adjustable torque arm a few days ago. Going from a broken *** stock torque arm to this is a hell of a difference, but anything would be considering the stock was broken. Definitely makes the car firmer, and gives a great solid feel driving around. I haven't done any hard launches since I still need to get under there and adjust my pinion angle a bit.
#28
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The body torques over with the engine on a hard launch, as shown here:
![](http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7127/60237682.jpg)
Having a sway bar that's extremely stiff, and preloaded on the right side to offset launch torque, can help quite a bit. You're still fighting against body roll, just roll generated due to engine torque rather than hard cornering.
![](http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/7127/60237682.jpg)
Having a sway bar that's extremely stiff, and preloaded on the right side to offset launch torque, can help quite a bit. You're still fighting against body roll, just roll generated due to engine torque rather than hard cornering.
#31
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I went with a body mounted torque arm. It's not really a thud, especially driving normally. You really have to get obnoxious with the gas getting on and off the throttle to induce any kind of noticable feel from the torque arm loading and unloading.
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
#32
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I went with a body mounted torque arm. It's not really a thud, especially driving normally. You really have to get obnoxious with the gas getting on and off the throttle to induce any kind of noticable feel from the torque arm loading and unloading.
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
#33
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I was still riding around on a factory torque arm because honestly, I didn't think it would make much difference for me because I don't track the car, and I'm driving on 19s, so how much better could it be, right?
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
Looks like a worthwhile investment. Are you getting the bolt in SFC's and then have them welded in later or ride out to shop after bolting in? or the weld in's and go straight to shop with them?
I've been wondering if there is a difference in strength and rigidity between either or....I do think one is cheaper than the other. Also it might be cheaper to weld in to place if you already have it bolted in. But Im definitely interested in whatever maybe the strongest.
#34
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It did transmit a lil more noise than the stock one though.
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it.
Here is a pic of my setup. Everything meshes together really well.
![](http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z318/red99rocket/002.jpg)
Heres what happened to my crossmember a few weeks ago
![](http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z318/red99rocket/P9070119.jpg)
I reinstalled the stock TA after this. I am going with a MWC fab 9 rear & it comes with their TA so thats what I will be using. I loved the UMI TA setup except for that damn dip in the crossmember. I constantly scraped with it, even when I wasnt lowered.
Looks like a worthwhile investment. Are you getting the bolt in SFC's and then have them welded in later or ride out to shop after bolting in? or the weld in's and go straight to shop with them?
I've been wondering if there is a difference in strength and rigidity between either or....I do think one is cheaper than the other. Also it might be cheaper to weld in to place if you already have it bolted in. But Im definitely interested in whatever maybe the strongest.
I've been wondering if there is a difference in strength and rigidity between either or....I do think one is cheaper than the other. Also it might be cheaper to weld in to place if you already have it bolted in. But Im definitely interested in whatever maybe the strongest.
#37
FormerVendor
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Curious, did you hit something with that to cause it to break? We have seen it happen before, one customer hit a raised man hole in a construction zone, he said he was going a little fast and cracked his. We know they are low, but with no many y-pipes out there we have to make it work with them all... if not the customer is saying its rubbing or vibrating. TSP just resigned there y-pipe with a merge collector in it. We had to redesign this item.. we were able to maintain the height and just widen the dip. But this just shows how one y-pipe brand will cause fitment issues.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan
#38
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Curious, did you hit something with that to cause it to break? We have seen it happen before, one customer hit a raised man hole in a construction zone, he said he was going a little fast and cracked his. We know they are low, but with no many y-pipes out there we have to make it work with them all... if not the customer is saying its rubbing or vibrating. TSP just resigned there y-pipe with a merge collector in it. We had to redesign this item.. we were able to maintain the height and just widen the dip. But this just shows how one y-pipe brand will cause fitment issues.
Thanks,
Ryan
Thanks,
Ryan