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I'm amazed at the difference a torque arm can make.

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Old 09-05-2010, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by z_speedfreak
thats one of the downsides of a tunnel mt tq arm, your friend should of gotten the trans mt tq arm with a relocation bracket
He wanted one with a driveshaft loop - y'know the whole nine yards. He was encouraging me to do the same, but I was leery b/c of reports of NVH on here. Plus my car hooks fine with the stocker as long as the track is well-prepped and my tires are properly heated up.

But then again, I'm not rolling with 470rwhp like the Alchemist ... not even 370.
Old 09-05-2010, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by z_speedfreak
thats one of the downsides of a tunnel mt tq arm, your friend should of gotten the trans mt tq arm with a relocation bracket
That's the setup I have and I still get a shitload of gear whine/diff resonance through it.
Old 09-05-2010, 07:46 PM
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I remembered that I have put down sound insulation on the floorboard of my car, so maybe that's also helping because honestly, it wasn't noticable at all.
Old 09-06-2010, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Element
Which, in a properly-set up car, is overcome by the proper selection of shocks, rear sway bar, and preloading the rear sway bar.

I know, I know, just saying...
what does a sway bar have anything to do with the rear end squating? I thought it was for better body roll control when turning?
Old 09-06-2010, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
what does a sway bar have anything to do with the rear end squating? I thought it was for better body roll control when turning?
The body torques over with the engine on a hard launch, as shown here:



Having a sway bar that's extremely stiff, and preloaded on the right side to offset launch torque, can help quite a bit. You're still fighting against body roll, just roll generated due to engine torque rather than hard cornering.
Old 09-06-2010, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by z_speedfreak
thats one of the downsides of a tunnel mt tq arm, your friend should of gotten the trans mt tq arm with a relocation bracket
Makes just as much noise imo.
Old 09-06-2010, 05:16 PM
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I just put on a UMI transmission mount adjustable torque arm a few days ago. Going from a broken *** stock torque arm to this is a hell of a difference, but anything would be considering the stock was broken. Definitely makes the car firmer, and gives a great solid feel driving around. I haven't done any hard launches since I still need to get under there and adjust my pinion angle a bit.
Old 09-06-2010, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Element
The body torques over with the engine on a hard launch, as shown here:



Having a sway bar that's extremely stiff, and preloaded on the right side to offset launch torque, can help quite a bit. You're still fighting against body roll, just roll generated due to engine torque rather than hard cornering.
thanks for the clarification.. and why exactly does it have to be preloaded on the right side only?
Old 09-06-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
thanks for the clarification.. and why exactly does it have to be preloaded on the right side only?
Since the car twists to the right, already having increased preload on that side just makes the sway bar "hit" more quickly.
Old 09-06-2010, 11:36 PM
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Hey Alchy... did you go with a trans mounted or body mounted T/A?

And that's the one thing that I am afraid of... Is popping or thud when taking off or slowing down
Old 09-07-2010, 05:40 AM
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I went with a body mounted torque arm. It's not really a thud, especially driving normally. You really have to get obnoxious with the gas getting on and off the throttle to induce any kind of noticable feel from the torque arm loading and unloading.

On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
Old 09-07-2010, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I went with a body mounted torque arm. It's not really a thud, especially driving normally. You really have to get obnoxious with the gas getting on and off the throttle to induce any kind of noticable feel from the torque arm loading and unloading.

On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it. Speaking of the factory torque arm, mine actually has provisions for what I can only guess is a driveshaft loop. There are two bolts welded onto the arm vertically around where the driveshaft would be. Anyone else have this on their factory torque arm?
Saw those on mine and figured they were probably exhaust hanger bolts. Haven't had the stock exhaust on my car in so long, I'm not completely sure, though.
Old 09-07-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I was still riding around on a factory torque arm because honestly, I didn't think it would make much difference for me because I don't track the car, and I'm driving on 19s, so how much better could it be, right?

Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.

Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.

My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.

Looks like a worthwhile investment. Are you getting the bolt in SFC's and then have them welded in later or ride out to shop after bolting in? or the weld in's and go straight to shop with them?

I've been wondering if there is a difference in strength and rigidity between either or....I do think one is cheaper than the other. Also it might be cheaper to weld in to place if you already have it bolted in. But Im definitely interested in whatever maybe the strongest.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I went with a body mounted torque arm. It's not really a thud, especially driving normally. You really have to get obnoxious with the gas getting on and off the throttle to induce any kind of noticable feel from the torque arm loading and unloading.
I had this setup on mine & it made noise at times. It wasnt that bad though.
It did transmit a lil more noise than the stock one though.
On a positive note, my shifter and transmission are rock solid once again thanks to not having the torque arm mounted to it.
This is what I really liked about this torque arm. Before my shifter would fly around a lot because of the stock TA mounted to the trans. It really plants the back tires at the track too. The thing I hated about this TA is the crossmember would hit on things sometimes. I had the crossmember thats dipped more for LTs & it hangs down instead of going straight across.
Here is a pic of my setup. Everything meshes together really well.


Heres what happened to my crossmember a few weeks ago

I reinstalled the stock TA after this. I am going with a MWC fab 9 rear & it comes with their TA so thats what I will be using. I loved the UMI TA setup except for that damn dip in the crossmember. I constantly scraped with it, even when I wasnt lowered.

Originally Posted by License2Ill
Looks like a worthwhile investment. Are you getting the bolt in SFC's and then have them welded in later or ride out to shop after bolting in? or the weld in's and go straight to shop with them?

I've been wondering if there is a difference in strength and rigidity between either or....I do think one is cheaper than the other. Also it might be cheaper to weld in to place if you already have it bolted in. But Im definitely interested in whatever maybe the strongest.
I got the bolt ins, theyre $20 more($279 vs $299) but pretty much made the same. A lot buy the bolt in, then have them welded in later. Mine are still bolted in. Maybe if I road raced it I wouldve welded them.
Old 09-09-2010, 01:57 PM
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Thicker pile carpeted floor mats will also help with noise...

Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I remembered that I have put down sound insulation on the floorboard of my car, so maybe that's also helping because honestly, it wasn't noticable at all.
Old 09-09-2010, 03:21 PM
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Update: I adjusted the torque arm the other day and I think I went the wrong direction with it and now I have some bad vibrations on coasting. Time to get it back on the lift tonight and go back the other way.
Old 09-09-2010, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
Heres what happened to my crossmember a few weeks ago
Curious, did you hit something with that to cause it to break? We have seen it happen before, one customer hit a raised man hole in a construction zone, he said he was going a little fast and cracked his. We know they are low, but with no many y-pipes out there we have to make it work with them all... if not the customer is saying its rubbing or vibrating. TSP just resigned there y-pipe with a merge collector in it. We had to redesign this item.. we were able to maintain the height and just widen the dip. But this just shows how one y-pipe brand will cause fitment issues.

Thanks,
Ryan
Old 09-09-2010, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by UMI Performance
Curious, did you hit something with that to cause it to break? We have seen it happen before, one customer hit a raised man hole in a construction zone, he said he was going a little fast and cracked his. We know they are low, but with no many y-pipes out there we have to make it work with them all... if not the customer is saying its rubbing or vibrating. TSP just resigned there y-pipe with a merge collector in it. We had to redesign this item.. we were able to maintain the height and just widen the dip. But this just shows how one y-pipe brand will cause fitment issues.

Thanks,
Ryan
I let our bodyman pull the car in to remove my clear corners for me so he is the one that broke it. The bodyshop rear entrance is an incline & the concrete is a sharp angle at the entrance. He was going a lil too fast pulling in too. I knew the car wouldnt make it through the back but I forgot to tell him, my fault. The night before I pulled into a gas station to turn around & I hit pretty hard on the crossmember, the lot was a lil uneven surface. Anyway when not lowered I have hit & scraped stuff with it like them pump covers at the gas stations, coming in our service dept is an incline too & the lifts on our alignment rack. Its a great torque arm setup but it just hangs too low. It has to be made like that or the pipe would bang on it. I am going with the trans crossmember mounted setup with the MWC fab 9 that I ordered because it gives more clearance as their short TA is similar.



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