I'm amazed at the difference a torque arm can make.
#1
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I was still riding around on a factory torque arm because honestly, I didn't think it would make much difference for me because I don't track the car, and I'm driving on 19s, so how much better could it be, right?
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
#2
10 Second Club
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I was still riding around on a factory torque arm because honestly, I didn't think it would make much difference for me because I don't track the car, and I'm driving on 19s, so how much better could it be, right?
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
Well, I picked up a damn near new UMI tunnel mounted torque arm with drive shaft loop (might as well be safe) and installed it a few days ago. I was only able to drive it around the block to just check for rattles, pops, issues until today.
Rolling into the throttle causes the rear to squat like it's never done before. It's like the front end just comes up and the rear squats and I'm gone. I'm so impressed. I do have a slight bit of vibration/thud when I lift and coast, so I picked up the angle meter today and will adjust the torque arm since I'm lowered on Strano springs.
My next mod is a set of triangulated tubular subframes to tie everything together. Then it's off to get them welded in, and a front end alignment done.
#4
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I installed mine a few days ago. It's amazing. Its helped out a lot with traction as well. Now when punched, the front lifts and the rear squats like its dropping a load
. Im still getting some weird noises going on under there. I dropped it to 3rd on the highway a few days ago and it sounded like something hit the floor board or the drive shaft exploded. Dont know if it has something to do with the pinion angle.
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#6
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Not bashing anyone, just voicing what seems to be the popular opinion when it comes to "traction".
#7
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Okay, let me clarify. Instead of just breaking the tires loose and wheel hopping, now the car accelerates with a noticable difference. It APPPEARS as though the front end comes up or the rear squats, either way, better weight transfer is occuring and better traction is the net result.
HAPPY?
Fact is, if you are accelerating, weight is being transfered, so typically the front end is going to come up and the rear is going to go down some.
FYI, squating doesn't help traction, squatting is a result of having good traction and weight transfer resulting in higher levels of acceleration which results in a rotational force being applied from the wheels to the chasis which yeilds a 'squated' look.
HAPPY?
Fact is, if you are accelerating, weight is being transfered, so typically the front end is going to come up and the rear is going to go down some.
FYI, squating doesn't help traction, squatting is a result of having good traction and weight transfer resulting in higher levels of acceleration which results in a rotational force being applied from the wheels to the chasis which yeilds a 'squated' look.
Last edited by The Alchemist; 09-04-2010 at 05:03 PM.
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#9
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Granted, we have a torque arm setup, but it's very similar to a ladder bar.
How Ladder Bars Work:
The Ladder Bar is a more sophisticated traction device because it serves as an extremely rigid, bridge-type truss that locates the rear axle housing directly to the chassis. With the axle housing held firmly in place, the torque applied to the differential is now transferred immediately through the Ladder Bars and into the chassis. By using the Ladder Bar to carry power to the chassis, the front end reacts by rising. As the front of the car travels upward, rapid weight transfer is created which "plants" the rear tires and propels the car forward.
#10
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Okay, let me clarify. Instead of just breaking the tires loose and wheel hopping, now the car accelerates with a noticable difference. It APPPEARS as though the front end comes up or the rear squats, either way, better weight transfer is occuring and better traction is the net result.
HAPPY?
Fact is, if you are accelerating, weight is being transfered, so typically the front end is going to come up and the rear is going to go down some.
FYI, squating doesn't help traction, squatting is a result of having good traction and weight transfer resulting in higher levels of acceleration which results in a rotational force being applied from the wheels to the chasis which yeilds a 'squated' look.
HAPPY?
Fact is, if you are accelerating, weight is being transfered, so typically the front end is going to come up and the rear is going to go down some.
FYI, squating doesn't help traction, squatting is a result of having good traction and weight transfer resulting in higher levels of acceleration which results in a rotational force being applied from the wheels to the chasis which yeilds a 'squated' look.
I know, I know, just saying...
#11
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I've got a set of Konis, Stranos, BMR 22mm rear sway and now the UMI torque arm. Did the rear squat, I can't say for sure, but the front did come up, so it could be a combo of both. Fact is, the rate of accleration increased compaired to spinning before.
#13
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NVH? Noise vibration harmonics?
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
#14
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NVH? Noise vibration harmonics?
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
#15
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NVH? Noise vibration harmonics?
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
Maybe it needs to have the pinion adjusted. I honestly couldn't feel any negative effects. There was a tad bit of a thud when I would make quick throttle changes, like on off on throttle changes, but after getting home, I found the bolts on the front of the torque arm needed to be tightened a little more and the slight thud went away.
#17
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Maybe I'm not as sensitive to it rolling on 19s, long tubes w/ory, lowered, and a heads/cam setup making 470+ hp. I've got poly motor mounts as well.
Did I notice a little bit of a thud, actually it's more of a tap under the seat, sure, but it was far better than when I installed a poly trans mount. That drove me crazy and only lasted on the car for 20-30 miles.
Did I notice a little bit of a thud, actually it's more of a tap under the seat, sure, but it was far better than when I installed a poly trans mount. That drove me crazy and only lasted on the car for 20-30 miles.