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SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install

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Old 10-02-2010, 06:23 PM
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Default SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install

From this picture, how are you supposed to remove the OEM dust-boot without destroying it? Does it just pop-off? If so, what's the best way to remove it? This thing is so deformed -- not sure what's the best route. Also, is the bumpstop under the dust-boot? If not, anyone have the GM part numbers for the bumpstop and dust-shield?

Also, I assume the nut & washer included with the SLP Bilsteins for the top of the shock connection above the strut mount? Again, would it hurt really them to include some instructions?

What a job this is -- so much rust in that strut mount area and my sway endlink bolt broke taking it off... Interesting the OEM shocks are Delphi, not De Carbon -- probably still the same, though. Yes, this shock was disconnected from the strut mount (passenger side), hence it crazy deformation...
Attached Thumbnails SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install-img_0049.jpg  

Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-02-2010 at 08:32 PM.
Old 10-02-2010, 06:45 PM
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dust boot-shield-GM 22114311
Old 10-02-2010, 08:59 PM
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The front factory bump stops are about $35 each, so you might want to go with some GC bump stops, or Koni stops.
Old 10-02-2010, 10:17 PM
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What a complete cluster #$%! Bilstein is that cheap that they cannot include the parts which there is seemingly no way to remove from the old shocks?! What a joke. Spring perch, Dust-boot and Bumpstop are all non-removable seemingly without destroying the shock -- dangerous experiment. The spring isolator is the only easy reusable part!

What about that Bilstein included metal hat -- does that get pounded onto the top of the shock? I assume then the bumpstop and dustboot go above that?

Am I basically SOL and need to buy replacement GM parts, or is there a good way to remove this stuff?

Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-02-2010 at 11:35 PM.
Old 10-03-2010, 02:02 PM
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Cut that mangled shock shaft off and you should be able to slide off the dust boot - unless you've badly mangled the metal on that. Then you'll have to whack off the shock top ring, which will enable you to pound the lower mount off. Slide it on your Bilsteins, hammer the top ring on, and slide on your dust boot and you're done.

The front shocks on my M6 car said "Delphi" not DeCarbon also. I don't remember seeing that on any of the other cars I've done this on. I wondered if they were replacements as the shock nuts came off easily - no rust.
Old 10-03-2010, 03:08 PM
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Exclamation

Thanks. Will knocking off that shock top ring be explosive? Obviously shocks are under great pressure... I'm a little leery about doing that -- have you done that before?

Already destroyed the dust boot -- cut it to look underneath. *doh* The dust boot metal top was super-fused to the shock shaft -- I highly doubt it would have come off at all.

It would sure be nice to visually see an assembled Bilstein to ensure the parts order is correct. Double damn Bilstein for not including even THAT!

I doubt mine were replacements... The Delphis say made in USA, DeCarbon as I recall were made in France. The metal center washer in both the dogbone and strut mount were completely gone. See attached pic (left are used replacements I am using, Right are the parts removed) Yes, this RS is a daily driver that goes through rain, winters and Chicagoland salt torture...

Another thing I have never seen anyone mention, is there is a small all-rubber insert (smaller than the dogbone) that goes just below the Upper Control Arm Mounting bracket and just above the strut mount -- mine is still intact.

Originally Posted by RevGTO
Cut that mangled shock shaft off and you should be able to slide off the dust boot - unless you've badly mangled the metal on that. Then you'll have to whack off the shock top ring, which will enable you to pound the lower mount off. Slide it on your Bilsteins, hammer the top ring on, and slide on your dust boot and you're done.

The front shocks on my M6 car said "Delphi" not DeCarbon also. I don't remember seeing that on any of the other cars I've done this on. I wondered if they were replacements as the shock nuts came off easily - no rust.
Attached Thumbnails SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install-img_0050.jpg  

Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-03-2010 at 03:14 PM.
Old 10-03-2010, 03:25 PM
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Yes, I've installed three sets of front Bilsteins. That top ring doesn't seal the shock. It's just like the one you'll have to hammer on to your Bilsteins. I'm not sure what its purpose is. Just smack it off.
Old 10-03-2010, 03:46 PM
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^ Thanks.

What kind of products do you guys like to use to seal off rust like this (see pic)?

Also, how important is replacing the A-Arm bushings? How much do they affect handling? Mine look pretty poor (see pics).

So the order on the Bilstein from top to bottom is:
Top
Dust Boot
Bump Stop
Metal Cap
Top of shock
Spring Perch
Bottom

Correct?
Attached Thumbnails SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install-img_0047.jpg   SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install-img_0045.jpg   SLP Bilstein & OEM GM Parts needed for install-img_0046.jpg  
Old 10-03-2010, 05:09 PM
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Looking at this illustration from Parts Taxi, there are even more parts, not clear what is applicable for the Bilsteins:

1) W/o z28 W/o z28 Back 2) Washer Washer Back 3) Bumper Bumper Back
4) Lower insulator Lower insulator Back 5) Shield Back 6) Spring Back
7) Retainer Back 8) Upper insulator Back 9) Mount Right
Old 10-03-2010, 05:56 PM
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Looking at the pix you included, IMHO you REALLY NEED to replace the a-arm bushings. They don't look too good, and secondly, why take the car apart twice?
Old 10-03-2010, 06:25 PM
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Wire brush to get the loose rust and dirt off, then hit it with some POR-15.

I'd also vote for replacing the control arm bushings.
Old 10-03-2010, 07:02 PM
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Question

^ Thanks for the inputs.

On the diagram below, anyone have photos of the following parts? I'm not clear if they are required with the Bilsteins? Diagrams don't explain enough...

#7 looks like a 2nd bumpstop -- what is it? I do not have this part, or it eroded away
#4 seems like the spring insulator, I have it
#3 seems like the bumpstop -- it is supposed to go UNDER the dust-boot -- is that correct?
#2 seems like the spring perch, if so, I have it


Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Looking at this illustration from Parts Taxi, there are even more parts, not clear what is applicable for the Bilsteins:

1) W/o z28 W/o z28 Back 2) Washer Washer Back 3) Bumper Bumper Back
4) Lower insulator Lower insulator Back 5) Shield Back 6) Spring Back
7) Retainer Back 8) Upper insulator Back 9) Mount Right
Old 10-04-2010, 01:47 AM
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i used a wire brush......sprayed with that anti rust paint.....the stuff that turns black.....replaced bushings with poly......done deal
Old 10-04-2010, 11:34 AM
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Question

Seems like POR-15 is mailorder only -- Napa & Advance Auto don't carry it -- is it really much better than others on the market like Permatex or DupliColor?


Originally Posted by Element
Wire brush to get the loose rust and dirt off, then hit it with some POR-15.

I'd also vote for replacing the control arm bushings.
Old 10-04-2010, 06:20 PM
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Question

Is that top cap on the stock shock the snap ring? It is not obvious nor clear!

GM Service Manual says:
"Do not remove the snap ring from inside the top of the tube. If the snap ring is removed, the contents of the shock absorber will come out with extreme force which may result in personal injury."


Originally Posted by RevGTO
Yes, I've installed three sets of front Bilsteins. That top ring doesn't seal the shock. It's just like the one you'll have to hammer on to your Bilsteins. I'm not sure what its purpose is. Just smack it off.
Old 10-05-2010, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by libertyforall1776
Is that top cap on the stock shock the snap ring? It is not obvious nor clear! GM Service Manual says:
"Do not remove the snap ring from inside the top of the tube. If the snap ring is removed, the contents of the shock absorber will come out with extreme force which may result in personal injury."
No, the top cap is not the snap ring. My advice would be to stop looking at diagrams and instructions and look at the parts you have. The pieces that do not come with the Bilsteins have to be removed from the stock shocks and installed on them. Like I said, smack that top cap off and then you can remove the lower mount. Install the mount, top cap, and dust boot on the Bilsteins and you're ready to go. If you need new upper mounts, make sure they have the steel insert in the center like the factory ones, or install yours in them if they are serviceable.
Old 10-05-2010, 11:12 PM
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Question

Got the perch & bumpstop off -- had to saw off the rod above the bumpstop metal hat to get it all off after popping off that shock top cap.

So the stock dustboot (unfortunately I destroyed and need a new one) has a metal hat and below that is a bumpstop. Above that metal hat and between the strut mount, there is not supposed to be another rubber bumper ABOVE the hat of the dustboot, correct? I ask because there is rubber sitting on the shock rod above the dustboot hat, but that might just be the part of the eroded strutmount rubber.

See my original picture in my first post, see the rubber on the rod just above the dustboot? Is that from a rubber bumper or the strutmount rubber erosion? No pictures ever clearly show where the bumper goes, and none show two. Part 7 in the picture above is "retainer back" on Parts Taxi -- -which means what?!

I also cannot find the replacement part that holds on the dust boot -- you can see it in my first post pic also. Anyone know the part #? TIA!

I already have replacement mounts and isolators -- the stockers' metal were toast, hence the disconnected shock.

Originally Posted by RevGTO
No, the top cap is not the snap ring. My advice would be to stop looking at diagrams and instructions and look at the parts you have. The pieces that do not come with the Bilsteins have to be removed from the stock shocks and installed on them. Like I said, smack that top cap off and then you can remove the lower mount. Install the mount, top cap, and dust boot on the Bilsteins and you're ready to go. If you need new upper mounts, make sure they have the steel insert in the center like the factory ones, or install yours in them if they are serviceable.

Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-06-2010 at 04:47 PM.
Old 10-28-2010, 12:49 PM
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Question

How big a deal is it to replace those bushings? The local Chevy Service Center claims you have to replace the whole unit as if the bushings are not replaceable separately. Or are they just trying to do a soak-the-uninformed as usual?


Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Looking at the pix you included, IMHO you REALLY NEED to replace the a-arm bushings. They don't look too good, and secondly, why take the car apart twice?
Old 10-28-2010, 03:00 PM
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Yes, their trying to soak you! They can press the old ones out and press new ones back in.
Old 10-28-2010, 04:02 PM
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^ Yea, I just found the detail in the GM Service Manual, and these guys just want to soak the Extended Warranty co. I have (which covers this, hence my deferment) -- I called 'em on it. Ridiculous!

Unless the GM bushings are no longer available, in which case I would imagine aftermarket ones will be spec'd by the warranty co.


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