BS

I finally went out and got some parts for the 2000 Trans Am. The car's has had nothing more than a SLP LM Exhaust until now. I've got the SLP "FlowPac" Cold-Air Package, Fast Toys SLP Cold Air Upgrade Kit, SLP Fan Control Switch, and the suspension stuff listed below.

I forgot about Sam until the last when I went to make sure that I had everything to lower the car .

I've got the following to install:

Eibach Pro-Kit (93-97)- I'd forgot about Sam having his own springs
SLP Bilstiens (I know they're not Koni's but all I could afford)
Moog LCA bushings

UMI LCA Relocation Brackets (from Sam)
UMI Panhard Bar double adjustable with Roto-Joints ( from Sam)

I will eventually get a Sway bar set from Sam but that could be a while.

When I was double checking everything and ordering stuff from Sam I notice some post saying that new End links would be needed when lowering. Is there anything to that?

I also read where the Eibachs were now considered a bad spring because people were bottoming out. I thought that Sam use to reccomend them. What's the deal? And if its true can the Suspension leveling kit (rear assist air springs) that Sam sales help?.

Element

iTrader: (5)

Eibach's are known to sag over time and aren't as good as other spings - they seem to be more an appearance mod than a handling one. Too many better alternatives out there to even bother with them. Adding bags to the rear (which is something that I've honestly ever seen drag guys) to make up for bad springs isn't really what I'd consider cost-effective or efficient - just throw the Eibach's up on ebay and pick up a different set of springs.

If your end links are old, it'd probably be a good idea to replace them, as they'll be worn out and nasty.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Both my front end-links broke trying to remove them on my RS doing my SLP Bilstein install -- both bolts snapped right at the upper washer. If the bushings are still good, most Autoparts stores have inexpensive end-link repair kits and you can just use the bolts.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

All 4 of my endinks were rusted stuck and the nuts spun the links until they broke. That was when my car was only like 4 years old, so I'm guessing your's will definitely break too.

Element

iTrader: (5)

I pulled my end links off Saturday night (replaced OEMs about 4 years ago with Energy Suspension ones) and wound up having to cut the link right above where it goes into the control arm, because the threaded shaft had rust-welded itself to the spacer that goes between the control arm and sway bar bushings.

Once you've fought to get a nasty rusted set of end links off, you probably won't want to fight putting them back on, if they're still in one piece.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

I had to saw one of them off. Not sure why I had clearance issues. That was when I was an extreme noob. I'm still a noob, but not so extreme now days, haha.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Like everyone else said your endlinks will probably break, mine did as well. The poly d-bushings and endlinks make a huge difference in my opinion. It's definitely worth doing.

Fire-formula 93

iTrader: (1)

Yep pick up some endlinks at a local autoparts store (oreillys had moogs poly ends in stock).

Another problem is you dont know the condition of the shock mounts and related components until you pull it all apart. I made a list in a recent post about what the parts you really need to be prepared for this job...




Just make sure you have these on hand before you start, and whatever you dont use you can simply return:

All Items for Front

1. Strut mount 1 each side, reason (shock shaft was stuck in center of one mount and destroyed it when removed.)
2. Strut mount isolator (trapezoid piece that fits inside the top of the shock mount) 1 each side, reason (probably will need to cut top shock nut/bolt and may destroy rubber/metal isolator in the process)
3. Sway bar endlink kit 1 each side, reason (stock bolts get very rusty and weak, broke one just removing the top nut.)
4. Lower spring seat 1 each side just incase you say f it and decide not to even try to disassemble 1 or both shock/spring assemblies

If you can afford to keep and use all the above items (about $200) AND you dont need your old springs or shocks you can not worry about that PITA shock nut BUT if you could use the extra change try to disassemble the shock and spring and re-use the old parts and return what you dont need.

I didnt have those things on hand I had to run around everywhere looking for them. MOST places all of these items except sway bar links are special order

PwrHngryLT1

iTrader: (14)

^agreed, when I lowered my lt1 I ran into just those problems like rusted front shocks on both sides which i had to basically destroy my strut rubber mounts to remove them which was pointless at the end of the day and just ended up going everywhere trying to find the strut mounts and was unsuccesful in doing so. Car was on jacks for a while due to that since I had to order the parts online and wait. Also my upper control arm bushings where impossible to remove without damaging the control arm so I ended up getting some upper umi ones.

Now I have an ls1 and am waiting to be lowering it as soon as I have some money available. I want to do it right the first time and now that I know what can happen I'll be getting: shocks, springs, upper a arms, front ball joints, new strut mounts, rear adjust. panhard bar, and endlinks. I think thats all I bought last time. Just something everyone should take into consideration when lowering and I know ill be replacing these parts sooner or later, might as well get it over with while your working on the suspension already.

Fire-formula 93

iTrader: (1)

Good plan. I guess the lt1 design is different but the upper control arm assembly just lifts right off of the shock mount when removed from the car on a ls1. But like you said, they are gonna have to be replaced eventually and umi makes great products

To the original poster, I would really think about selling the springs you have and going with some strano springs. You really want to do ths right the first time. You might have to buck up a little extra money for the strano's but they are worth every penny trust me.

I went with the stranos and konis 4/3 and love it. I know you hate to hear this but the konis will last much longer and have more dampening ability than the bilsteins. You have already waited 10 years to do this might as well wait a few more months and get the right combination. I know money is tight but you could easily sell the bilsteins on here, save for awhile, then call up sam for the famous strano/koni combination. If you plan to keep it, listen to my words

Good luck man