Watts Link
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 169
From: Locust Grove, VA
Watts Link Ive been looking around in getting my cars suspention up to snuff and able to handle. I was looking at the Watts Link for my car and wondered how these thing work?
I have a Watts Link on my car now. It was one of the last suspension upgrades I did, but I sure wish it had been one of the first. The car's handling has improved dramatically, I made a thread about it months ago. It is pricey, no doubt, but it is well worth every $$, imo.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 169
From: Locust Grove, VA
Cool. Yeah im doing other things right now but a Watts link will definatly be in my to do list for suspention mods. Im running out of the cheap ones to do so eventually ill be getttin gone. just got an adj Torque arm and a tuneel brace w/loop from UMI. Still gotta get SHocks and Swaybars bar first. The decarbons are DONE! lol completely usless
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I've had one for 2 summers & wish it was available 2 years before that. Sam said I would love it & he was correct. It made a huge difference in the stability compared to a panhard rod. The mid corner jacking effect is now gone, plus you can adjust the roll center to better balance the car.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 13
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I only see good feedback regarding the Watts link. Could anyone please elaborate on how it is better? I understand from theory that it will eliminate side to side movement, and the roll center becomes adjustable. I can also see the rear end is less bound up by eliminating PHB busings (Those poly bushings are really terrible...)
Does it make the car better on the rough pavement?
Is it better during corner entry or exit, or better everywhere?
Is it better than PHB with rod-end or roto-joint?
Does it make the car better on the rough pavement?
Is it better during corner entry or exit, or better everywhere?
Is it better than PHB with rod-end or roto-joint?
Getting rid of the side-to-side motion is what it is all about...the panhard rod is long for a reason, and that is to make sure the arc it travels has the largest radius possible, but it can only be so long, so you'll never get rid of the lateral movement as it travels that arc under cornering/compression/droop. The Watts link should get rid of the vast majority of that movement (and probably all of it under normal driving conditions). Sam has mentioned in the past that he was able to remove wheel spacers on the back wheels that were required when he was using a panhard rod after switching to the Watts link. To me, that means a LOT of lateral movement was eliminated with that piece.
Unfortunately, mine is still sitting in a box, and might require some serious exhaust modification to make it work since I have custom over-the-axle duals. I'm still willing to make it work...I know it won't handle like a car with IRS, but I'm trying to get it as close as possible.
Unfortunately, mine is still sitting in a box, and might require some serious exhaust modification to make it work since I have custom over-the-axle duals. I'm still willing to make it work...I know it won't handle like a car with IRS, but I'm trying to get it as close as possible.
I run ovals with my camaro and i had to run more spacer on the the left side of the rear end till i got the adjustable panhard bar. Now be for this session start I am trying to get the link in there so i can keep the hole rear end from trying to got the right side of the car. Will let you know how it helps me when i get back to the track.
My tires used to hit both inner wheel wells, now they don't. As suspension moves, the panhard rod pivots on an angle, which allows the rear to move side to side. The Watts link effectively reduces this to nearly zero.
Also as the suspension moves up/down, the panhard is not level. During cornering, the panhard rod then pushes up or down on the body depending on which way you are turning. This can cause, what I referred to as a jacking effect, where one side of the rear lifts or squats upsetting the car mid corner. Since the locating point is now a pivot in the middle of the car, there is no other force on the rear to make it lean, allowing the suspension to only react to weight transfer & equally in both diections.
Raising or lowering the roll center changes the pivot point where the car leans as weight transfers. You can adjust this to match the spring/sway bar rates, as well as to the front roll center to balance the handling front to rear. Lower causes more body roll & less oversteer.
Also as the suspension moves up/down, the panhard is not level. During cornering, the panhard rod then pushes up or down on the body depending on which way you are turning. This can cause, what I referred to as a jacking effect, where one side of the rear lifts or squats upsetting the car mid corner. Since the locating point is now a pivot in the middle of the car, there is no other force on the rear to make it lean, allowing the suspension to only react to weight transfer & equally in both diections.
Raising or lowering the roll center changes the pivot point where the car leans as weight transfers. You can adjust this to match the spring/sway bar rates, as well as to the front roll center to balance the handling front to rear. Lower causes more body roll & less oversteer.
That makes me wonder, is the Watts Link and Strano Adjustable Swaybar compatible with the new Kooks true-duals over the axle exhaust?
Unfortunately, mine is still sitting in a box, and might require some serious exhaust modification to make it work since I have custom over-the-axle duals. I'm still willing to make it work...I know it won't handle like a car with IRS, but I'm trying to get it as close as possible.
Doubtful since it is a 3" system...mine necks down to 2.5" pipes after the crossover, so I have a bit more room to spare. That said, mine will still probably not fit without modifications, but I'll find that out this spring.
our watts link will clear dual 3 inch pipes and is available for universal 3 inch axle tube rears as well as our fabricated 9 inch with the backbrace. it is a direct bolt-in part and is manufactured from chromemoly steel in a lightweight design and fully adjustable. we have them on several street/strip and autocross type cars with great success.
