strano handling package 3.5
01-16-2011, 07:00 AM
#1
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strano handling package 3.5 just picked up a 2001 z28 last week and realized it handled far worse than my cobalt ss 
. so i ordered strano's handling package 3.5 and an adjustable pan hard bar. hoping it handles pretty decent after the install. anybody have this setup. also any tips on adjusting the panhard bar? i imagine the car needs to be at static ride height. also is there anything i need to worry about as far as preload when installing the springs or swaybars?
. so i ordered strano's handling package 3.5 and an adjustable pan hard bar. hoping it handles pretty decent after the install. anybody have this setup. also any tips on adjusting the panhard bar? i imagine the car needs to be at static ride height. also is there anything i need to worry about as far as preload when installing the springs or swaybars? 
01-16-2011, 01:27 PM
#2
the panhard rod is easy to adjust. jack the ole car up, let the rear hang and adjust the phr till you have equal tire on each side.
I am unfamiliar with the 3.5 package. What comes in it?
And I agree, our camaro's/firebirds handle like crap. My old 2007 TB 3SS handled BETTER lol.
Also, check to see if the old owner had the front sway bar out. That will make your front of your baby handle like a 1978 cadillac
I am unfamiliar with the 3.5 package. What comes in it?
And I agree, our camaro's/firebirds handle like crap. My old 2007 TB 3SS handled BETTER lol.
Also, check to see if the old owner had the front sway bar out. That will make your front of your baby handle like a 1978 cadillac
01-16-2011, 02:02 PM
#3
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Looks like SLP Bilsteins, sways, and springs. New shocks alone make a huge difference in how these cars handle. It's a pretty good setup on budget, and although Koni's are more recommended, most say that the Bilsteins do a good job with his springs. Should be a night and day difference.
Looks like SLP Bilsteins, sways, and springs. New shocks alone make a huge difference in how these cars handle. It's a pretty good setup on budget, and although Koni's are more recommended, most say that the Bilsteins do a good job with his springs. Should be a night and day difference.
01-17-2011, 03:29 AM
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the panhard rod is easy to adjust. jack the ole car up, let the rear hang and adjust the phr till you have equal tire on each side.
I am unfamiliar with the 3.5 package. What comes in it?
And I agree, our camaro's/firebirds handle like crap. My old 2007 TB 3SS handled BETTER lol.
Also, check to see if the old owner had the front sway bar out. That will make your front of your baby handle like a 1978 cadillac
I am unfamiliar with the 3.5 package. What comes in it?
And I agree, our camaro's/firebirds handle like crap. My old 2007 TB 3SS handled BETTER lol.
Also, check to see if the old owner had the front sway bar out. That will make your front of your baby handle like a 1978 cadillac
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=92&ModelID=8
Looks like SLP Bilsteins, sways, and springs. New shocks alone make a huge difference in how these cars handle. It's a pretty good setup on budget, and although Koni's are more recommended, most say that the Bilsteins do a good job with his springs. Should be a night and day difference.
Looks like SLP Bilsteins, sways, and springs. New shocks alone make a huge difference in how these cars handle. It's a pretty good setup on budget, and although Koni's are more recommended, most say that the Bilsteins do a good job with his springs. Should be a night and day difference.
i'll probably put it on a 4 point lift to do the panhard bar adjustment. i have access to plenty of tools.
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02-01-2011, 12:02 PM
#9
Even with a 4 point lift you'll have to drop the car back down to ride height every time you make an adjustment to the PHB just to see if rear is centered. If you have access to a 4 post drive on lift that would be the best/easiest for centering the rear.
02-01-2011, 06:29 PM
#12
To center the rear, I hung plumb-bobs over the fenders and measured to the line from the out-most point on the rear end. I then adjusted the PHB until both sides were equal. Set the car on the ground with the wheels on and it's perfect!
02-02-2011, 01:20 AM
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I don't agree with this. I tried this and then when I lowered the car, it was off center. I then supported the axle tubes on jack stands to load the suspension, and then adjusted the PHB.
To center the rear, I hung plumb-bobs over the fenders and measured to the line from the out-most point on the rear end. I then adjusted the PHB until both sides were equal. Set the car on the ground with the wheels on and it's perfect!
To center the rear, I hung plumb-bobs over the fenders and measured to the line from the out-most point on the rear end. I then adjusted the PHB until both sides were equal. Set the car on the ground with the wheels on and it's perfect!
02-03-2011, 08:22 AM
#14
Yeah letting the rear hang down to adjust the PHB really doesn't make any sense. You can use a plumb bob and a tape measurer. On a flat surface with the suspension loaded. Find the center of the wheel well, let it hang down and measure to the center of the wheel. That's what Sam suggested.
02-06-2011, 11:25 AM
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ok got it all installed and even changed my oil and diff oil over the last couple of days.
impressions... handles far better than before. not too stiff, not too soft. body roll and weight transfer has decreased dramatically.
the rebound dampening is the only thing i think could be improved, needs a bit more.
install tips.........lots of liquid wrench for the bolts. on the rear do both sides at the same time. and just cut off the old sway bar links, wasted a bunch of time on getting them off.
on the front, drivers side has two torxs bolts, they are a pita to get out without removing the master cylinder(which i didn't do thankfully). once i got them out the bolt underneath the master i replaced with a normal headed bolt which made life much easier on the reinstall.
impressions... handles far better than before. not too stiff, not too soft. body roll and weight transfer has decreased dramatically.
the rebound dampening is the only thing i think could be improved, needs a bit more.
install tips.........lots of liquid wrench for the bolts. on the rear do both sides at the same time. and just cut off the old sway bar links, wasted a bunch of time on getting them off.
on the front, drivers side has two torxs bolts, they are a pita to get out without removing the master cylinder(which i didn't do thankfully). once i got them out the bolt underneath the master i replaced with a normal headed bolt which made life much easier on the reinstall.
02-06-2011, 03:17 PM
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