TransWS6Am

iTrader: (41)

you could find a shop besides the dealership that has a tech II and see how much they want. There was a shop by my old apartment in California that had a Tech II, so i know there are shops out there who have them besides the dealership.

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

I hate the dealership for this very reason. This is why I will gladly give anybody else my money or do it myself. I prefer doing the work myself in most cases. $274 is a total ripoff IMO.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

thats ridiculous! when i had to have this done, my stealership charged a flat rate of like $90 to bleed brakes. mine were bad enough that the pedal went all the way to the floor and i had to crawl the car there at like 10mph

safemode

iTrader: (1)

i'm pretty sure you could have bled the brakes normally yourself and perfect brakes short of ABS working. Air in the abs usually just causes the light to come on and for ABS to be disabled.... That's usually the case anyway.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

we still need to get a confirmed DIY procedure, I want a sticky for this! lol

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

Anyone?

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

Everyone should at least try my method. It worked for me and several other members. My system was completely drained too.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

I would try it. But don't see the method. Can u give us step by step instructions. I get the rotating the wheels part but what do you do after rotating the wheel and hitting the brake, bleed anything? or just move to the next wheel? Is the cap on or off the resevoir during this? Do you make 1 trip around the wheels and then bleed them the standard way? I definitely want to try this, but not exactly sure how to. Thanks

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

I want to try your method too, I'm not sure the exact procedure either like the post below.

I agree!

safemode

iTrader: (1)

When you have air in the ABS module, you need to bleed from nearest to the module to further away. This is usually the opposite of the "standard" way. Since this non-tech-tool method simple replaces the tool with a manual way of engaging the abs pump, the bleeding method should remain the same as what the books say to do with the tool.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

still would like someone to explain it step by step. Do you spin the wheel, brake, then bleed the caliper or do you spin all the wheels then bleed all of them? Just a lot of little steps people are leaving out that could make a big difference.

SJMMFGINC

If you're not removing the lines before the ABS controller, activating the ABS module should not be necessary. From your discussion in initial comments, you shouldn't have to worry.

When you remove the calipers, place a cap on each line so your reservoir does not suck air. You'll need to still bleed the brakes afterwards, but the ABS module and air being trapped should not be an issue.

Spinning a wheel to activate an ABS solenoid won't work unless the module senses a differential from the Hall Sensors during braking.

Worst case scenario would be to remove ABS if you continued to have problems and didn't want to take it to a dealer to get rectified. We have ABS delete kits which completely removes the ABS controller and bracket.

Do not use the gravity method of bleeding your brakes. Use the old fashion two man method or pressure bleed it via pressure bleeder tool if nothing else. Personally, I don't care for the pesticide bleeder method which agitates brake fluid with air...the correct tool would be to use a pressure bleeder which separates the air from the fluid via a diaphragm.

Good luck,

Steve
Mechanical Engineer
SJM Manufacturing Inc.

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

SJM Steve, I hope I don't offend you cause you surely without a doubt know what you are talking about. You helped me with some issues in the past but you couldn't solve this issue without recommending a tech tool. My car sat for months and I didn't realize the capped lines were leaking.

Sorry guys, been pretty busy. To busy to respond.

This partially only applies to TCS ONLY cars, but it will work on NON-TCS cars for the fronts only, possibly the rears, but I haven't tried to figure that one out yet. (I only ever got this to work on a NON-TCS car that only had issues with the front brakes due to the engine and K-member being dropped)

I guess you guys want like a step-by-step writeup so I'll try.

STEP (1)
Support the car with all of the wheels off of the ground.

STEP (2)
BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER
I believe when you experience serious brake issues, there is usually a good amount of air in the master. Even if the master isn't totally empty, it can consume a good amount of fluid if the brake is applied. I like to bench bleed, then bolt it on to the booster and go like hell screwing in the front and rear lines or bleed it on the car.

STEP (3)
Bleed the lines going to the ABS BLOCK.

STEP (4)
Have a friend sit in the driver seat and turn the ignition to on (engine off). I have also done this with the car running but you can't hear the block bleed. Some have done this with the ignition to on (engine off) and haven't heard it bleed but still had success. It works either way.

STEP (5)
TRICKING THE ABS BLOCK TO BLEED DOWN
When bleeding the ABS block, all bleeders on the brake system must be closed. As to which wheel to start spinning first, well I guess that stems from where the issue originated from. If it is an issue on all 4 corners, then start from the rear and work your way to the front. I don't believe in left vs. right as I never noticed a difference.

Spin your first wheel (one at a time, haha) as fast as you can continually. Have the person in the car gently apply the brakes as you continually spin the wheel, again, as fast as you can. You should hear the block bleed and you should then feel the resistance of the brake being applied. Then on that same wheel, bleed the caliper. It may or may not be easier to remove the wheel but that depends on your car or style wheel.

I prefer vacuum bleeding because it doesn't require the pedal to be pressed. I use a Mighty Vac. If you do the two person method, turn the key to OFF.

Go to the next wheel and so on. Thats it.

Oh, and I don't believe that the ABS kicks in only at a certain speed. With the wheel on the car, you can easily spin the wheel to around (at least!) 10 mph. I have had my car skid down a hill in the ice and I can tell you that the ABS worked at 5mph! (no fun)

Excuse me if I sound like I am talking out my *** and do call me on it if so (Steve especially). I would like to think I understand how this system works since it magically worked for a good amount of other members here.

Not to mention, you are gonna look like an idiot spinning the wheel! Wear rubber gloves to grip the tire.

SJMMFGINC

9t8z28, no offense taken at all. I'm happy that I was able to help you in the past.

I'm confused as to what you'd offend me with though as we are in agreement regarding activating the solenoids.

The steps you mentioned should activate the solenoids. You reiterated the most important factor which I posted regarding activation...I didn't want the poster to assume he could just spin the a wheel and activate the solenoids. ...the key was that you could not just spin the wheel, the EBCM needs to receive a logical high signal from braking before it will allow the solenoids to function.

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

No, I meant that if I said something that was incorrect to correct me. Thanks

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I too don't understand why bleeding the brakes on these cars is such voodoo.

safemode

iTrader: (1)

correctly bleeding brakes on any ABS car is voodoo. you can do it the non-ABS way but you are hoping to get lucky and not have any air in the abs module or you end up throwing codes and having ABS come on and off line randomly as you drive.

What the tech tool does is allow you to turn the abs pump on at will. What this method does is the same thing but manually tripping the ABS so that it turns on. You need it on in order to bleed the abs and get air out of that part of the system. then you can bleed the lines to the calipers. This is not specific to just our cars, fords are the same way.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

This ABS block is an electro-device? Does it have a motor in it or a wiring harness going to it? Could we trick it by manually activating it?

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

Yes it is electronic, so it must have a wiring harness going to it. Im sure you could trick it by sending the right voltage to it, but you would need an adjustable power supply to dial in the correct voltage. Not sure if it is signaled by voltage or something else like a frequency....???

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Does anyone know if the Snap on Modis is able to bleed the brakes like a Tech II?