Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

I've searched these forums top to bottom on this subject but still no concrete answers to key questions. I've heard that our cars cant be truly bled without a GM TECH II tool. Is this true? I've seen alot of guys like the motive products speed bleeder, but I'd really like to stay away from buying specialty tools I'll only use once in a blue moon.

What procedures did you use when bleeding your brakes? Any tips you can provide? I just purchased new slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads from Brakemotive, and plan on painting the calipers while I'm at it. Seems like a real pain to bleed the damn brakes, but I want to really take my time with the calipers and paint them real nice. Can anyone offer some advice? I think this procedure could really use a sticky.

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Bleed like normal, then bleed from the top line on the ABS module.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Gravity bleed is ok? Start with pass rear, then driver rear, then pass front, then driver front?

Any pictures or anything showing the ABS line and how to bleed that?

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

I would have a helper and have them use a MityVac if possible. Gravity bleed is what we did on my car.

SS DNA

iTrader: (7)

I just bled my brakes and did the old fashion pump the brakes and open the valve with my dad but I didnt do the ABS module.

I was thinking of taking it to a GM dealer to do it with the Tech II also as I heard the same thing, that it cant be done the normal way.

How do you do the ABS module ? Like what do you mean by the top line ?

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Sorry if I'm not specific enough. I was just the one pumping the pedal, my buddy was the one who bled the unit... LOL. Let's see if he'll chime in...

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

as long as you dont get air in the ABS block, you can do a normal bleed procedure at the calipers.

if you get air in the ABS block, (which happened to me when i did my line lock install), you gotta get a tech II bleed at the stealership, or you can try the ghetto *** method of putting the rear on jackstands and triggering an ABS event to fire of the solenoids, doing a manual bleed, and then repeating until the air is out of the ABS block.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Thanks for your help. Someone should really do a write up on this that is worthy of a sticky. Would be very helpful.

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

I let my master cylinder run completely dry one time. I bled like normal without the tech tool for the abs. I bled the car then went out and engaged the abs system a few times, and came back and re bled. Worked perfect for me.

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

That is one way of doing it. Here is an easier way that requires 2 people. Jack the car up. Turn the ignition to on. Have someone spin each wheel (one at a time) and then the person in the car hits the brakes. Repeat this as necessary. BELIEVE ME, this works.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

I have read before that the abs only engages at a certain speed, do you spin them slowly?

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

01Blk*SS* that info isnt true. The couple of people on here that have tried this technique all had success.

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

Spin the wheel as fast as you can

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

By the book, the ABS is active at speeds over 5 mph.

i'd like to know this ABS block bleed also. I've never been in love with my brakes, and I think this is why.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

Okay, so please let me know if this is what you mean step by step:
-jack up car
-turn on ignition
-spin passenger rear as fast as possible
-have a buddy apply brakes not too hard
-then bleed the passenger rear?
-repeat above steps on driver rear, passenger front, driver front?

thanks for your help!

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

ttt I want to know also

sscamaroburn02

iTrader: (14)

I agree we need good info or step by step for a sticky. I need to bleed my brakes really bad!

safemode

iTrader: (1)

When you bleed the abs module I am pretty sure you should do that first (either the ghetto way or the tech tool way) and you know when the ABS is done because it wont cause bubbles to show up in the reservoir. Then you have to do the bleeding of the calipers opposite of the old fashioned way. You have to do the closest calipers to the ABS unit first and this is usually front right -> front left - > rear left -> rear right... (the fronts may be switched, i forget which has the longer line)...

The thing is, you're technically _supposed_ to do this while the abs unit is on, which requires the tech tool. But it's probably not necessary 99.9% of the time in order to get all the air out.

01Blk*SS*

iTrader: (4)

I totally agree! We need to get a sticky up for this. I called the stealership today and they want $274 to purge the system plus the cost of fluid required.

safemode

iTrader: (1)

I think it's funny how they charge a massive amount for a simple procedure that needlessly requires proprietary hardware and on top of that feels the need to charge you for the 10 dollars of brake fluid. I wonder how they got around the rules for standard car diagnostics and repair with the ABS. This is something that any OBD2 tool should be able to do but obviously can't. BS.