Bleeding brakes on ABS/TCS car
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Bleeding brakes on ABS/TCS car
I've searched these forums top to bottom on this subject but still no concrete answers to key questions. I've heard that our cars cant be truly bled without a GM TECH II tool. Is this true? I've seen alot of guys like the motive products speed bleeder, but I'd really like to stay away from buying specialty tools I'll only use once in a blue moon.
What procedures did you use when bleeding your brakes? Any tips you can provide? I just purchased new slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads from Brakemotive, and plan on painting the calipers while I'm at it. Seems like a real pain to bleed the damn brakes, but I want to really take my time with the calipers and paint them real nice. Can anyone offer some advice? I think this procedure could really use a sticky.
What procedures did you use when bleeding your brakes? Any tips you can provide? I just purchased new slotted/drilled rotors and ceramic pads from Brakemotive, and plan on painting the calipers while I'm at it. Seems like a real pain to bleed the damn brakes, but I want to really take my time with the calipers and paint them real nice. Can anyone offer some advice? I think this procedure could really use a sticky.
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I just bled my brakes and did the old fashion pump the brakes and open the valve with my dad but I didnt do the ABS module.
I was thinking of taking it to a GM dealer to do it with the Tech II also as I heard the same thing, that it cant be done the normal way.
How do you do the ABS module ? Like what do you mean by the top line ?
I was thinking of taking it to a GM dealer to do it with the Tech II also as I heard the same thing, that it cant be done the normal way.
How do you do the ABS module ? Like what do you mean by the top line ?
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as long as you dont get air in the ABS block, you can do a normal bleed procedure at the calipers.
if you get air in the ABS block, (which happened to me when i did my line lock install), you gotta get a tech II bleed at the stealership, or you can try the ghetto *** method of putting the rear on jackstands and triggering an ABS event to fire of the solenoids, doing a manual bleed, and then repeating until the air is out of the ABS block.
if you get air in the ABS block, (which happened to me when i did my line lock install), you gotta get a tech II bleed at the stealership, or you can try the ghetto *** method of putting the rear on jackstands and triggering an ABS event to fire of the solenoids, doing a manual bleed, and then repeating until the air is out of the ABS block.
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as long as you dont get air in the ABS block, you can do a normal bleed procedure at the calipers.
if you get air in the ABS block, (which happened to me when i did my line lock install), you gotta get a tech II bleed at the stealership, or you can try the ghetto *** method of putting the rear on jackstands and triggering an ABS event to fire of the solenoids, doing a manual bleed, and then repeating until the air is out of the ABS block.
if you get air in the ABS block, (which happened to me when i did my line lock install), you gotta get a tech II bleed at the stealership, or you can try the ghetto *** method of putting the rear on jackstands and triggering an ABS event to fire of the solenoids, doing a manual bleed, and then repeating until the air is out of the ABS block.
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-jack up car
-turn on ignition
-spin passenger rear as fast as possible
-have a buddy apply brakes not too hard
-then bleed the passenger rear?
-repeat above steps on driver rear, passenger front, driver front?
thanks for your help!
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When you bleed the abs module I am pretty sure you should do that first (either the ghetto way or the tech tool way) and you know when the ABS is done because it wont cause bubbles to show up in the reservoir. Then you have to do the bleeding of the calipers opposite of the old fashioned way. You have to do the closest calipers to the ABS unit first and this is usually front right -> front left - > rear left -> rear right... (the fronts may be switched, i forget which has the longer line)...
The thing is, you're technically _supposed_ to do this while the abs unit is on, which requires the tech tool. But it's probably not necessary 99.9% of the time in order to get all the air out.
The thing is, you're technically _supposed_ to do this while the abs unit is on, which requires the tech tool. But it's probably not necessary 99.9% of the time in order to get all the air out.
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I think it's funny how they charge a massive amount for a simple procedure that needlessly requires proprietary hardware and on top of that feels the need to charge you for the 10 dollars of brake fluid. I wonder how they got around the rules for standard car diagnostics and repair with the ABS. This is something that any OBD2 tool should be able to do but obviously can't. BS.