ABS light
#1
ABS light
After a nice traffic filled drive to work this morning, while parking I noticed my ABS light came on all of a sudden, and stayed on.
I don't know why this would have happened, I just want to figure this out so when I go to leave work i'm not going to end up in a ditch..
I don't know why this would have happened, I just want to figure this out so when I go to leave work i'm not going to end up in a ditch..
#2
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
ABS not working will not put you in a ditch, driving like a R-tard will do that. Could be many factors. Check your brake fluid, check the sensors. On the rear end. you could have a damaged component.
Have you done ANY brake work, bleeding, or anything of that nature?
Have you done ANY brake work, bleeding, or anything of that nature?
#3
BlackscreamingMachine is correct. …To clarify a bit. If your fluid is low, you have a leak somewhere. If the fluid is not low, you either have a sensor which has malfunctioned or the ABS controller has malfunctioned.
If you can't figure it out or correct it on your own, it would be less expensive to consider removing your whole ABS system using one of our ABS delete kits. This will drop about 15lbs from your car and give you the ability to adjust brake bias...something you couldn't do before. It will make working on the engine bay easier and allow better air flow due to lessoning component clutter.
Good luck, give me a call if you have additional questions,
Steve
Mechanical Engineer
SJM Manufacturing Inc.
724.478.5580
If you can't figure it out or correct it on your own, it would be less expensive to consider removing your whole ABS system using one of our ABS delete kits. This will drop about 15lbs from your car and give you the ability to adjust brake bias...something you couldn't do before. It will make working on the engine bay easier and allow better air flow due to lessoning component clutter.
Good luck, give me a call if you have additional questions,
Steve
Mechanical Engineer
SJM Manufacturing Inc.
724.478.5580
#5
Our ABS delete kits start at 139.99 which includes new formed lines with associated flared ends, all fittings you need and an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve to control your brake bias. If you do not already own a line lock, the line lock kit which includes a 2 stage electrical kit is a 40.00 option, if you need a double flare tool to connect the kit to your stock lines, that is a 20.00 option.
My intent wasn't to push you towards our kit. It does remove all associated problems with ABS and our cars. ...Especially when you start changing tire diameters...the stock ABS/TCS will not operate correctly anyways. Some people for some reason who feel they have to have ABS/TCS spend quite a bit of money to retain functionality...for a race car, whether road racing or drag racing...those parts really don't play nice with aftermarket setups which most people change to. If you could tune ABS/TCS like you do when you change the cam and tune your ECM, then you'd have something.
Since you can't tune the ABS controller (EBCM), its really only configured well for a STOCK car. Once you start altering your car configuration, its like changing your cam and not changing the ECM to optimize the cam's needs. It may work, but not to its initial intent.
If you feel that correcting the situation and having ABS/TCS makes you feel all warm and fuzzy...this may work best in your particular situation, plan on spending ~ 300.00 for diagnostics and repair...if it's only a sensor that may need repaired. If the EBCM is malfunctioning, plan on spending allot more. My suggestion is if you do need a new EBCM, get a used one from one of our customers who are removing the ABS system...purchasing a new one is quite expensive.
The system can be tricky to diagnose as a code thrown may be a secondary issue to a primary problem. Some mechanics run a test for codes...then just start replacing parts out for known good parts in hopes it corrects the problem.
My intent wasn't to push you towards our kit. It does remove all associated problems with ABS and our cars. ...Especially when you start changing tire diameters...the stock ABS/TCS will not operate correctly anyways. Some people for some reason who feel they have to have ABS/TCS spend quite a bit of money to retain functionality...for a race car, whether road racing or drag racing...those parts really don't play nice with aftermarket setups which most people change to. If you could tune ABS/TCS like you do when you change the cam and tune your ECM, then you'd have something.
Since you can't tune the ABS controller (EBCM), its really only configured well for a STOCK car. Once you start altering your car configuration, its like changing your cam and not changing the ECM to optimize the cam's needs. It may work, but not to its initial intent.
If you feel that correcting the situation and having ABS/TCS makes you feel all warm and fuzzy...this may work best in your particular situation, plan on spending ~ 300.00 for diagnostics and repair...if it's only a sensor that may need repaired. If the EBCM is malfunctioning, plan on spending allot more. My suggestion is if you do need a new EBCM, get a used one from one of our customers who are removing the ABS system...purchasing a new one is quite expensive.
The system can be tricky to diagnose as a code thrown may be a secondary issue to a primary problem. Some mechanics run a test for codes...then just start replacing parts out for known good parts in hopes it corrects the problem.
Trending Topics
#8
Glad to see the lamp went out. Air would not have set the lamp off on your dash.
If you do have air in your brake system, it will not leave as the system is closed. You need to bleed the system to remove the air.
You may have a poor connection or a variety of other intermittent problems (the worst kind of problems are intermittent ones).
Though our delete kit is probably something you aren't going to use, it's actually pretty simple to install. The kit for the most part, comes assembled and ready to install out of the box.
I can install a kit in about 30 minutes (not including running the electrical portion of a line lock). Running the electrical portion takes some time as you need to consider where you'd place the switches...make the electrical connections etc. Bleeding brakes takes about 15 minutes. That task is really simple too as now you don't have to worry about air trapped in your ABS controller...cycling the solenoids etc.
If you do have air in your brake system, it will not leave as the system is closed. You need to bleed the system to remove the air.
You may have a poor connection or a variety of other intermittent problems (the worst kind of problems are intermittent ones).
Though our delete kit is probably something you aren't going to use, it's actually pretty simple to install. The kit for the most part, comes assembled and ready to install out of the box.
I can install a kit in about 30 minutes (not including running the electrical portion of a line lock). Running the electrical portion takes some time as you need to consider where you'd place the switches...make the electrical connections etc. Bleeding brakes takes about 15 minutes. That task is really simple too as now you don't have to worry about air trapped in your ABS controller...cycling the solenoids etc.