No brakes after install!
04-22-2011, 02:37 PM
#23
FormerVendor
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New pads/rotors will not stop at their full potential until fully bedded - this can take up to 1K miles but will get noticeably better after just a hundred or so. If you haven't done so yet follow the bed in procedure below.
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDdumDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moddumerate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Brake Pad Break-In Procedure
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDdumDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 moddumerate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot. After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure. After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
04-26-2011, 09:37 PM
#25
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Rather than create another thread i'll just add to this one.
I was bleeding all of my brakes today with no problems until i got to the right front. This is the side i replaced the caliper and had the slider pin stuck. Well i got all of that fixed but i noticed that when i was trying to bleed this side the brake pedal was extremely hard to push to the floor. Like my foot was hurting from pushing down so hard. I didn't have this problem on any of the other corners. It also seems like this rotor is much harder to turn freely with the car up in the air. When my slider pin was stuck, it didn't move at all.....but now it moves but just with alot more resistance. Also, the brake fluid doesn't flow NEARLY as well through the bleeder than the other sides. It will flow out, but its not a steady stream at all. My car stops pretty well now and stops pretty straight, but is it still possible that i have a clogged brake line or something, not allowing that bleeder to release the fluid as well? I hope i explained this good enough.
I was bleeding all of my brakes today with no problems until i got to the right front. This is the side i replaced the caliper and had the slider pin stuck. Well i got all of that fixed but i noticed that when i was trying to bleed this side the brake pedal was extremely hard to push to the floor. Like my foot was hurting from pushing down so hard. I didn't have this problem on any of the other corners. It also seems like this rotor is much harder to turn freely with the car up in the air. When my slider pin was stuck, it didn't move at all.....but now it moves but just with alot more resistance. Also, the brake fluid doesn't flow NEARLY as well through the bleeder than the other sides. It will flow out, but its not a steady stream at all. My car stops pretty well now and stops pretty straight, but is it still possible that i have a clogged brake line or something, not allowing that bleeder to release the fluid as well? I hope i explained this good enough.
