I think ill make an adj panhard bar
#1
I think ill make an adj panhard bar
So im considering making my own adjustable panhard bar i have a shop where i can do all the fabrication and i know where to get the materials but my question is this.
does any 1 have an adjustable now that they could give me measurements from? basically just length from eye 2 eye and possibly the diam of the threaded rod, i would greatly appriciate it
does any 1 have an adjustable now that they could give me measurements from? basically just length from eye 2 eye and possibly the diam of the threaded rod, i would greatly appriciate it
#2
Your best bet is to take off your stocker, get 2 bolts similar in size to the stock hardware (12pm should be fine) put the bolts thru the holes in the stocker, put the head of the bolts on a work table, and tack/spot them in place.
get two 3/4" rod ends (1 LH, 1 RH) and buy/machine a set of threaded inserts (again: 1 LH, 1 RH) as well as buy/machine the spacers to go from the 3/4 id of the rod end to the ~12mm mounting bolt. THEN thread the rod ends in to the inserts about 1/2 way. Stick the whole assembly over top of each bolt you tacked on the table, and measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder of the inserts and cut your tube accordingly.
Idk if that's the right way, but that's how I did mine.
get two 3/4" rod ends (1 LH, 1 RH) and buy/machine a set of threaded inserts (again: 1 LH, 1 RH) as well as buy/machine the spacers to go from the 3/4 id of the rod end to the ~12mm mounting bolt. THEN thread the rod ends in to the inserts about 1/2 way. Stick the whole assembly over top of each bolt you tacked on the table, and measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder of the inserts and cut your tube accordingly.
Idk if that's the right way, but that's how I did mine.
#3
Your best bet is to take off your stocker, get 2 bolts similar in size to the stock hardware (12pm should be fine) put the bolts thru the holes in the stocker, put the head of the bolts on a work table, and tack/spot them in place.
get two 3/4" rod ends (1 LH, 1 RH) and buy/machine a set of threaded inserts (again: 1 LH, 1 RH) as well as buy/machine the spacers to go from the 3/4 id of the rod end to the ~12mm mounting bolt. THEN thread the rod ends in to the inserts about 1/2 way. Stick the whole assembly over top of each bolt you tacked on the table, and measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder of the inserts and cut your tube accordingly.
Idk if that's the right way, but that's how I did mine.
get two 3/4" rod ends (1 LH, 1 RH) and buy/machine a set of threaded inserts (again: 1 LH, 1 RH) as well as buy/machine the spacers to go from the 3/4 id of the rod end to the ~12mm mounting bolt. THEN thread the rod ends in to the inserts about 1/2 way. Stick the whole assembly over top of each bolt you tacked on the table, and measure the distance from shoulder to shoulder of the inserts and cut your tube accordingly.
Idk if that's the right way, but that's how I did mine.
#4
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 83
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I dont understand why not just use the stocker? You could cut a section out of the center for your adjusting mechanism, and box the rest in. Seems simple to me. I considered doing this to the stocker but I bought a Founders non-adjustable tubular and cut that one instead.
#5
DIY Aluminum Adjustable LCAs and PHB
This data is 4 years old. But the last time I built a set for a race car, all the parts that I needed (threaded tube, rod ends, jam nuts) were all still available.
LCA's:
Coleman Racing
(2) 16" Aluminum Trailing Arm $12.90(each)
Jegs
(2) XML12 QA1 Rod Ends
(2) XMR12 QA1 Rod Ends
(2) QA1 Jam Nuts 122-JNR12S-5PK 3/4RH
(2) QA1 Jam Nuts 122-JNL12S-5PK 3/4LH
CMW Race Parts
(2) Rod End Reducer Bushings 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID
Aircraft Spruce
(4) Spacers made from the 1 OD X 1/2 ID 6061T6 ROUND ALUMINUM TUBING
Left Hander Chassis
(2) Rubber Trailing Arm Bushing (pg. 48) RH Thread
Metals Depot
(2) 3/4" to 1/2" sleeve's using T234120 3/4 OD X .120 Wall x .510 ID DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 1 ft.
APHR:
Coleman Racing
(1) 40" Aluminum Trailing Arm $20.70
Jegs
(1) XML12 QA1 Rod End
(1) XMR12 QA1 Rod End
(1) QA1 Jam Nut 122-JNR12S-5PK 3/4RH
(1) QA1 Jam Nut 122-JNL12S-5PK 3/4LH
CMW Race Parts
(1) Rod End Reducer Bushings 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID
Aircraft Spruce
(2) Spacers from the 1 OD X 1/2 ID 6061T6 ROUND ALUMINUM TUBING
Left Hander Chassis
(1) Rubber Trailing Arm Bushing (pg. 48) RH Thread
Metals Depot
(1) 3/4" to 1/2" sleeve using T234120 3/4 OD X .120 Wall x .510 ID DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 1 ft.
LCA:
Stock Car Products
(4) MB1 Reducer Bushing 1/2 Hole x 1 1/8
AHPR:
Stock Car Products
(1) MB1 Reducer Bushing 1/2 Hole x 1 1/8
(1) MB2 Reducer Bushing 9/16 Hole x 1 1/8
This data is 4 years old. But the last time I built a set for a race car, all the parts that I needed (threaded tube, rod ends, jam nuts) were all still available.
LCA's:
Coleman Racing
(2) 16" Aluminum Trailing Arm $12.90(each)
Jegs
(2) XML12 QA1 Rod Ends
(2) XMR12 QA1 Rod Ends
(2) QA1 Jam Nuts 122-JNR12S-5PK 3/4RH
(2) QA1 Jam Nuts 122-JNL12S-5PK 3/4LH
CMW Race Parts
(2) Rod End Reducer Bushings 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID
Aircraft Spruce
(4) Spacers made from the 1 OD X 1/2 ID 6061T6 ROUND ALUMINUM TUBING
Left Hander Chassis
(2) Rubber Trailing Arm Bushing (pg. 48) RH Thread
Metals Depot
(2) 3/4" to 1/2" sleeve's using T234120 3/4 OD X .120 Wall x .510 ID DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 1 ft.
APHR:
Coleman Racing
(1) 40" Aluminum Trailing Arm $20.70
Jegs
(1) XML12 QA1 Rod End
(1) XMR12 QA1 Rod End
(1) QA1 Jam Nut 122-JNR12S-5PK 3/4RH
(1) QA1 Jam Nut 122-JNL12S-5PK 3/4LH
CMW Race Parts
(1) Rod End Reducer Bushings 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID
Aircraft Spruce
(2) Spacers from the 1 OD X 1/2 ID 6061T6 ROUND ALUMINUM TUBING
Left Hander Chassis
(1) Rubber Trailing Arm Bushing (pg. 48) RH Thread
Metals Depot
(1) 3/4" to 1/2" sleeve using T234120 3/4 OD X .120 Wall x .510 ID DOM Seamless Structural Round Steel Tube 1 ft.
LCA:
Stock Car Products
(4) MB1 Reducer Bushing 1/2 Hole x 1 1/8
AHPR:
Stock Car Products
(1) MB1 Reducer Bushing 1/2 Hole x 1 1/8
(1) MB2 Reducer Bushing 9/16 Hole x 1 1/8
Last edited by mitchntx; 07-28-2011 at 06:35 PM.
#6
in my experience making my own panhard...you do not want to use 2 spherical rod ends...they rock back and forth while driving and make a hell of a noise.
you would want to use one end with a bushing and the other rod end, but with an adjuster in between so you still get your on car adjustment.
ive also noticed its much easier to just buy one from someone who knows i.e. UMI and BMR
after making my first one, it was only a little cheaper than getting one if theirs. not to mention they already come powdercoated
you would want to use one end with a bushing and the other rod end, but with an adjuster in between so you still get your on car adjustment.
ive also noticed its much easier to just buy one from someone who knows i.e. UMI and BMR
after making my first one, it was only a little cheaper than getting one if theirs. not to mention they already come powdercoated
#7
I was going to post what Mitchntx postd but he did it much better than I was ha. Get on any stock car products website and they'll have a huge selection of "suspension tubes" of all sizes. Get the rod ends you want and you're good to go.