rxrom

iTrader: (2)

Hi
I will have a free day next Tuesday, so I want to try to install the rear blistein shocks I bought one year ago. I never did anything like this before but when reading this site it seems like a job I can handle. I have been searching old posts but can't find details step by step info with pics. I have seen a vid here on shocks and springs but it wasn't detailed enough for me.

Thanks

hot93rod

iTrader: (6)

It's been a while since i've done mine, but it couldn't be more simple. Jack up the rear end, and support the frame of the car w/jack stands. Pull the wheels off. Set your jack under the rear differential, and pump it up just until it is holding the weight of the rear end, but doesn't have to compress the springs/shocks. Unbolt the shocks from the bottom, and top (like 3 bolts/nuts that hold it together total, per side i think?, 2 bottom, and 1 top). You'll have to get in and remove your back seat rest, carpet, and a foam piece b/c it covers the top of the shock where the threaded portion passes through to the inside, and it's just a nut that holds it on the top. Lower the jack, and your shocks will pretty much just fall out... your springs may as well, depending on springs/torque arm you have i guess. Hope that helps

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

the carpet has 'perforations' which can be cut with a razor/exacto blade/sharp knife to avoid having to pull back/roll back the carpeting. this is what the dealers do to replace rear shocks. I'll see if I can find a pic.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Just back the car up on a set of ramps, no need to take the wheels off; really!

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

since the cuts are behind the seat,they don't show. I don't run back seats 'back' and the 'flap' has yet to open by itself.

Cheap Guy

iTrader: (3)

It's only one bolt at the bottom and one nut at top. You shouldn't have to take off the tire. You can avoid cutting the carpet if you just remove the rear side panel and pull the carpet back.

rxrom

iTrader: (2)

So I unbolt the bottom first or the to. Does it make a difference. Also when installing the new shocks which first. Also do I need to raise or lower the rear end when installing the shocks
Thanks

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I can't tell you how pisses I was to find out AFTER I did my shock install those wholes were there.

OP,

IMO I think it's easier to do the top first. That way the shock is still being held in place and there is "some tension" against it. Sometimes when you try to take the nut off the whole shock spins. I have found this to help sometime.

It will also help to put the rear on jack stands or ramps. It makes getting to it a lot easier.

rt426gt

This can be a simple job to start your wrenching on.

Yes you can choose to cut access holes but if you don't feel right about it you add about 10 - 20 min if this is the first time you have ripped up the interior

Start by removing the folding part that keeps people from seeing in your 'trunk' (it simply snaps off, go slow with interior plastic if this is your first time)

Then remove the two side plastic panels, be careful not to snap off the plastic tabs closer to the seat.
(see 1.jpg)

Then pull the carpet out of the way, you may need to loosen the bolt that the seats clip to.
(see 2.jpg and 3.jpg - the bolt)

There is/should be some padding over the shock mount, remove this to get to the shock. Just break the nut for the time being, DO NOT remove it.
(see 4.jpg)

If you haven't already this is when you will want to raise the back end, block the front wheels, raise the rear and it makes it a lot easier if you remove the rear wheels.
You will need a jack and jack stands for this. Put the stands on the subframe in the rear (look like rails...) and your jack lightly supporting the rear end in the center section. You can kind of see it in 4a.jpg

The shock has one large bolt that acts as a stud for the shock, almost every shock comes with this as new hardware but they almost all look just a little bit different. The longer part is where the shock will slide on to. The thick part is a way to get a hold of the bolt with a wrench to keep it from spinning.
(See 5a.jpg)

You next can remove the nuts on both ends (the shock side could also be fixed) the lower part should be free to remove, if you leave it in it makes taking off the top nut (inside the car) easier.

Finish removing the upper nut and washer. Then slide out the shock from the mount on the rear end and pull or let the shock fall from the upper mount.
MAKE SURE you remove all of the bushings and washers before installing the new shock.

To install the new shock make sure you set the bolt and nut combo for the lower mount up right and slide the shaft of the shock with the bushing and washer in the upper mount hole then you may have to work a little with the new shock to get the lower bolt in on the rear but just take your time.

Install all the hardware just as it came off. Be sure to use an open end wrench (or the through style a set cost about $50 and you can pick them up at any hardware store) You need to do this to make sure the shock shaft does not turn, this could RUIN YOUR BRAND NEW SHOCK. there will be a spot for an allen wrench as seen on 4.jpg where you can hold it with to keep from slipping or turning.

The rest is just the reverse of removing them, I cannot think of the torque specs off the top of my head but I can look them up if you need them, I also suggest a repair manual for $20 from your local parts store if you plan on doing anything else on your own.


Good Luck!

I will have to finish the file (photos) upload later it is taking too long.

rt426gt

photos should be uploaded to photobucket.com/rt426gt
let me know if you need more help!

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

LS1HowTo is your friend for common mods:

Rear spring/shock swap

rxrom

iTrader: (2)

Thanks every one for your help
I'll let you know how it turns out on tuesday

rxrom

iTrader: (2)

A friend will lend me ramps. Do I still need to put a jack under the rearend if the wheels don't come off?

Thanks

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

No if it's on ramps and you have enough room to get under it that's all you need

rxrom

iTrader: (2)

Installed the shocks today(one day early). Took me almost 2 hours. Used ramps. The blisters are much harder to compres the the decarbons. The rear also sits a little higher now. I home it settles back down over time. I have the front shocks also but will find a shop to install them ( to complicated for me)

Thanks every one for your help

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

if the rear is sitting higher than it did before, you may need to adjust the rubber noise isolator at the top of the spring. make sure that the inner "donut" part of it is seated properly on the bump at the top, and make sure that the spring is sitting properly in the ring groove on the bottom side of the rubber piece.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Yes, as mentioned, check the spring, because shocks don't make any difference on ride height (unless you change the perch height, IE Koni front's)

StuntmanMike

iTrader: (2)

YUP!! I did mine this way.

And like was said above, do the tops first when you unbolt.

I don't know about the Bils, but when I installed my Koni's I had to use a floor jack to get them in place...that damn things kept extending on me, no matter how quick I tried to compress them and get them in, they'd extend too far for me to line the bolts up.

EDIT: Guess I should have read all the posts before replying. Glad you got them done!!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Have you driven it yet or just put it one the ground? Remember every time you uncompress the suspension and put it back down it will sit higher.

With new shocks it will probably be even more noticeable. Drive it some and see if it comes down some. The guys that said check the indexing on the springs are right too.