RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Anybody have any experience with this? Of the five t-top Firebirds we've had in our family, only my current M6 Formula has had this issue. I've tried bending out the tabs that the rods go through and it hasn't helped much.

I really don't like SFC's that much as they increase impact harshness, but this creaking is bugging me. It happens over bumps and when the body flexes. I'm thinking SFC's may help.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Do the square tube versions. They give awesome jacking points when lifting the car up. For that alone they are worth it.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Try armour All on the seals.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

It definitely wouldn't hurt to have the subframe connector to help keep the chassis flex to a minimum which should help the creaky noises you are having with your t-tops. Either the boxed or the tubular design would help you wiuth the chassis flex..

COSPEED

iTrader: (331)

Yes, the 2 point or 3 point would help the crease noise you hear. But being boxed does not make it any better as you can jack up on a tubular design too but I would still jack up a car on it's jack points, not on the SFC itself. Wouldn't want to ruin that nice powdercoat.

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

luckily my boxed slp's are a nice rustcoat so they make excellent lift points.

silver ls2

It definately stoped my squeeking ttops,plus car is sooo smooth not floopy now. Do it and you will wish you did it sooner.

FiredUpZ28

The objective is to lubricate the seals, not dry them out.

A little silicone will do ya. Keeping the seals soft usually eliminates more t top leaks too.

jarretthise

iTrader: (9)

theyll def help with the creaking and use any nice lubricant that can handle rubber and heat.

on a side note, if you get hit hard enough for the impact to make that big of a difference whether you have sfcs under your car or not then you are in trouble either way..

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I have quite a few customers send pictures and have had some tell me that the subframe connectors really helped in side impact accident situations. Let me see if I can dig up some pictures.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

I think my 3 pts helped a lot. Plus I did 100% silicone on all seals.

3.8blackmaro

Mine used to creak all the time in the winter, but after SFC they stopped. I didn't even notice that it did for a while. I guess I just forgot about the noises. They got rid of a lot of creaks that I had before.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

If you're going to jack on the SFCs, stick a hockey puck on top of your jack and then pump it up -- no powder coat damage that way!

I never had the t-top creaking, but the cowl noises are way less with SFCs, and better hooking and cornering. I would do SFCs first, then Koni SAs or SLP Bilsteins next if you are concerned about 'impact harshness'.

pewter2002

iTrader: (4)

I didn't know that the (SLP is what I have) subframe connectors are strong enough to jack the car up from(?). They didn't seem strong enough from looking at them, I thought they would just crush...

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

I have 12 year old rusty SLP boxed frame weld in's and they are still stronger than hell.

jarretthise

iTrader: (9)

i could only imagine.. it stiffins up the whole side of the car and helps from it being v'd into the side.. that alone is worth to me to have sfcs, because there really isnt much on the side really saving anybody other than the metal brace bar inside the door itself and come on, really who are we kidding? that wont save anybody..

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I have a Bilstien/Koni combo on the car. The creaking comes from the plastic molding that covers the release mechanism. My A4 car has boxed 2 points and no such noises. Neither have our other FB's with no SFC's.