How far do I go with suspension upgrades?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Canada
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How far do I go with suspension upgrades?
I've had a 95' Camaro z28 for a few years now, and finally have some money to do some upgrades. Currently the car is basically stock. My ultimate goal is to have a 400-450HP car used mainly for auto-X, but I want to keep it comfortable as a daily driver. My first upgrade will be to improve handling.
What is the first steps to improving handling? I found a couple suspension kits from BMR. Comments on these kits are welcomed.
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=342
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=341
I thought about doing just springs and shocks, but figure I might benefit from some of the sway bars and braces as well.
How much of a difference will these braces make?
I am also wondering if I will run into problems with tire size if the car is dropped 1-1.5"? Can i run 315 tires without rubbing?
Are these kits just bolt on? or are other modifications required?
I don't know a lot about suspension components, and the quality of them. If anyone has any better suggestions of different kits, feel free to comment.
Thanks for your help!
What is the first steps to improving handling? I found a couple suspension kits from BMR. Comments on these kits are welcomed.
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=342
https://securec20.ezhostingserver.co...&productid=341
I thought about doing just springs and shocks, but figure I might benefit from some of the sway bars and braces as well.
How much of a difference will these braces make?
I am also wondering if I will run into problems with tire size if the car is dropped 1-1.5"? Can i run 315 tires without rubbing?
Are these kits just bolt on? or are other modifications required?
I don't know a lot about suspension components, and the quality of them. If anyone has any better suggestions of different kits, feel free to comment.
Thanks for your help!
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (5)
My suspension mods for auto x would be Strano Sways > Koni 4/4s > Strano Springs and a PHB or Watts Link (depending on your budget) in that order.
Properly thought out lowering springs will have a higher spring rate to keep from bottoming out. This will provide a harsher ride but in honesty it's not that big of a deal. I roll Strano springs and my spine is fused and they don't bother me.
From what I've heard the strut tower brace, or STB, and the tunnel brace provide little to no noticeable gain over stock. I personally have no plans to run a STB and am only replacing my tunnel brace because I have a tunnel mounted torque arm.
I assume you want to run 315s only on the back, you're probably going to have to crawl under your ride and look things over. My WS.6 is tubbed so I can't really help you there. If, by any chance, you're wanting to run 315s on the front I think you can do it but will need longer studs, rolled fenders and a spacer. IIRC it's 3/16s. If you want I can look it up for you. I've heard it's easier to clear 315s on the front if your car has been lowered.
The BMR Level I kit you posted up appears to be all bolt-on. However, changing the springs and front shocks can get involved if you haven't ever compressed a spring or have a crappy compressor.
The BMR Level II kit you posted up, for the most part, looks the same as the Level I, as far as installation is concerned. However, it also includes weld-on subframe connectors.
Properly thought out lowering springs will have a higher spring rate to keep from bottoming out. This will provide a harsher ride but in honesty it's not that big of a deal. I roll Strano springs and my spine is fused and they don't bother me.
From what I've heard the strut tower brace, or STB, and the tunnel brace provide little to no noticeable gain over stock. I personally have no plans to run a STB and am only replacing my tunnel brace because I have a tunnel mounted torque arm.
I assume you want to run 315s only on the back, you're probably going to have to crawl under your ride and look things over. My WS.6 is tubbed so I can't really help you there. If, by any chance, you're wanting to run 315s on the front I think you can do it but will need longer studs, rolled fenders and a spacer. IIRC it's 3/16s. If you want I can look it up for you. I've heard it's easier to clear 315s on the front if your car has been lowered.
The BMR Level I kit you posted up appears to be all bolt-on. However, changing the springs and front shocks can get involved if you haven't ever compressed a spring or have a crappy compressor.
The BMR Level II kit you posted up, for the most part, looks the same as the Level I, as far as installation is concerned. However, it also includes weld-on subframe connectors.
#4
TECH Addict
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: South Florida
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you want an auto x setup, Sam Strano is the man to talk to.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=89&ModelID=2
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=66&ModelID=2
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=89&ModelID=2
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=89&ModelID=2
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=66&ModelID=2
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=89&ModelID=2
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I'd go with a better quality shock than the BMR kits provide (Koni > Bilstein > KYB > Tokico), as your dampeners are arguably your most important suspension piece for handling. Koni's and KYB shocks provide adjustability, but Koni's and Bilstein's are built better than KYB's. The first Strano kit listed (with Koni 4/3's, Strano springs, and 35/22 sways) is a great setup for auto-x and street.
The other problem with the BMR kit is that the 25mm rear bar is pretty big when paired with a 35mm front bar. I don't know what difference the wider rear tire makes though (I've heard it changes your handling balance), so maybe take this last comment with a grain of salt until someone more knowledgeable can answer it. Strano does also provide adjustable sway bars though so you can dial your roll resistance in to your likeing.
As far as the other parts, I would only really recommend replacing your PHB with an adjustable one or getting a Watt's link, and possibly some SFC's. The other stuff isn't really necessary (but I would say that upgrading your brake pads + fluid + lines is worth while!)
The other problem with the BMR kit is that the 25mm rear bar is pretty big when paired with a 35mm front bar. I don't know what difference the wider rear tire makes though (I've heard it changes your handling balance), so maybe take this last comment with a grain of salt until someone more knowledgeable can answer it. Strano does also provide adjustable sway bars though so you can dial your roll resistance in to your likeing.
As far as the other parts, I would only really recommend replacing your PHB with an adjustable one or getting a Watt's link, and possibly some SFC's. The other stuff isn't really necessary (but I would say that upgrading your brake pads + fluid + lines is worth while!)
#6
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (40)
I'd go with a better quality shock than the BMR kits provide (Koni > Bilstein > KYB > Tokico), as your dampeners are arguably your most important suspension piece for handling. Koni's and KYB shocks provide adjustability, but Koni's and Bilstein's are built better than KYB's. The first Strano kit listed (with Koni 4/3's, Strano springs, and 35/22 sways) is a great setup for auto-x and street.
The other problem with the BMR kit is that the 25mm rear bar is pretty big when paired with a 35mm front bar. I don't know what difference the wider rear tire makes though (I've heard it changes your handling balance), so maybe take this last comment with a grain of salt until someone more knowledgeable can answer it. Strano does also provide adjustable sway bars though so you can dial your roll resistance in to your likeing.
As far as the other parts, I would only really recommend replacing your PHB with an adjustable one or getting a Watt's link, and possibly some SFC's. The other stuff isn't really necessary (but I would say that upgrading your brake pads + fluid + lines is worth while!)
The other problem with the BMR kit is that the 25mm rear bar is pretty big when paired with a 35mm front bar. I don't know what difference the wider rear tire makes though (I've heard it changes your handling balance), so maybe take this last comment with a grain of salt until someone more knowledgeable can answer it. Strano does also provide adjustable sway bars though so you can dial your roll resistance in to your likeing.
As far as the other parts, I would only really recommend replacing your PHB with an adjustable one or getting a Watt's link, and possibly some SFC's. The other stuff isn't really necessary (but I would say that upgrading your brake pads + fluid + lines is worth while!)
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
#7
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
We'll both be biased....
The kits you are looking at use shocks I've used for years. I developed my own springs, and my own swaybars to compliment those springs. Even the verbiage that some others are using are terms I started using to describe things.
Bottom line. I've been doing kits that are proven to work (see the fact I have multiple National Championships running this stuff). I think a 25mm bar is too big, that's why I don't use one. I can't really stop it if folks try and replicate what I've been doing, but I know they can't 100% do it. And even if they could parts-wise.... the setup of those parts is important, and I include that information to my customers.
The kits you are looking at use shocks I've used for years. I developed my own springs, and my own swaybars to compliment those springs. Even the verbiage that some others are using are terms I started using to describe things.
Bottom line. I've been doing kits that are proven to work (see the fact I have multiple National Championships running this stuff). I think a 25mm bar is too big, that's why I don't use one. I can't really stop it if folks try and replicate what I've been doing, but I know they can't 100% do it. And even if they could parts-wise.... the setup of those parts is important, and I include that information to my customers.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
We carry suspension kits for the 4th gen f-body that include Koni shocks so we have many different package options depending on the individuals budget. if you do not see a package that meets your needs all you have to do is give us a call at the shop and we can build you a custom suspension package.
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keep doing your research, I would highly recommend sub frame connectors, I have a weld in tubular set from BMR. Lowering the car on quality shocks/ springs will help the handling... and why are you going with 315? You can still have a great handling car with a little less rear tire..then you won't have to worry as much as clearance issues.
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Keep doing your research, I would highly recommend sub frame connectors, I have a weld in tubular set from BMR. Lowering the car on quality shocks/ springs will help the handling... and why are you going with 315? You can still have a great handling car with a little less rear tire..then you won't have to worry as much as clearance issues.
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
You'll get a lot of opinions.
I disagree with some of the above sentiments and would get SFCs right after nearly everything else and right before an STB.
My car is also my daily so in some respects it is compromised for some ride quality but for the most part I am happy with how it performs, and it is about 1000x better than stock. I have Koni SA's with stock springs, 35/22mm hollow bars from Strano, stock springs, and the Fays2 Watts. I also pressed out the original bushings from the OEM LCA's and pressed in some Moog replacements.
Just replacing the shocks with Koni or Bilsteins will make the car seem entirely different. The OEM damping is absolutely terrible for the stock spring rates. The weight of the car will feel more controlled and you will also find that the "chassis flex" is in large part gone.
Tires are the other critical part of the equation. The actual tires, not just wheel sizing (which is important too and will affect your choice of spring / bars for balance).
If I were to do anything else I might get springs, but have been somewhat avoiding them because of how bad the roads are around where I live, and because of the overabundance of very steep drives, tall speed bumps, and my LTs. But there are several good springs and there are different drops and rates so just try to figure out exactly what you want. Personally I would go with the ones that offer about a 1" drop, are reasonably priced, have good rates, and are the lightest...
As far as the Watts goes, it is another part that really needs to be done after you fix the OEM shocks, and get the springs / bars you want. The caveat to that is you might end up wanting more (or less) rear bar with the Watts versus the Panhard but that partly depends partly on what height roll center you want and if you are going to try to change rear bar rate or roll center to mess with balance.
I disagree with some of the above sentiments and would get SFCs right after nearly everything else and right before an STB.
My car is also my daily so in some respects it is compromised for some ride quality but for the most part I am happy with how it performs, and it is about 1000x better than stock. I have Koni SA's with stock springs, 35/22mm hollow bars from Strano, stock springs, and the Fays2 Watts. I also pressed out the original bushings from the OEM LCA's and pressed in some Moog replacements.
Just replacing the shocks with Koni or Bilsteins will make the car seem entirely different. The OEM damping is absolutely terrible for the stock spring rates. The weight of the car will feel more controlled and you will also find that the "chassis flex" is in large part gone.
Tires are the other critical part of the equation. The actual tires, not just wheel sizing (which is important too and will affect your choice of spring / bars for balance).
If I were to do anything else I might get springs, but have been somewhat avoiding them because of how bad the roads are around where I live, and because of the overabundance of very steep drives, tall speed bumps, and my LTs. But there are several good springs and there are different drops and rates so just try to figure out exactly what you want. Personally I would go with the ones that offer about a 1" drop, are reasonably priced, have good rates, and are the lightest...
As far as the Watts goes, it is another part that really needs to be done after you fix the OEM shocks, and get the springs / bars you want. The caveat to that is you might end up wanting more (or less) rear bar with the Watts versus the Panhard but that partly depends partly on what height roll center you want and if you are going to try to change rear bar rate or roll center to mess with balance.