Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Well got all the way to #6 on the instructions and Im already stuck. LOL Before I even attempt this project, I noticed on the tools required that it doesnt list any engine hoist, cherry picker, etc. Is that right? According to the instructions, it says that I will need to life the engine slightly and support it with a jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. Has anyone done the install without some type of engine hoist? Anyhow, back to #6...it says to remove both power steering lines and cap hoses to prevent fluid loss. Which lines are they referring to? Im probably going to have a lot more questions, but Im trying to go in order and thats where Im held up at. If I can get the clarified, then I can continue until I get held up again. Thanks a lot.

WS6WRX

iTrader: (1)

I did it w/ a floor jack and a 2x4 and was fine. Dunno about the power steering lines, it's been a while but I don't remember disconnecting any.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Ok...heres the rundown on how far I am...

1. Using an 8mm wrench, remove the positive cable on the battery. DONE

2. Using a 15mm wrench, loosen the serpentine belt tensioner and remove the belt from the alternator. DONE

3. Lift car so that facotry k-member is at least 18" from ground. Support car with jack stands under frame rails. DONE

4. Remove front wheels and tires. DONE

5. Using a 13mm socket and wrench, remove front swaybar. DONE

6. Using an 18mm wrench, remove both power steering lines and cap hoses to prevent fluid loss. STUCK ON THAT STEP

7. Using a 13mm and a 15mm socket, remove all 3 bolts holding the alternator in place, unplug wiring harness, and remove the alternator. DONE

8. Support the motor with a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. DONE

9. Using an 18mm socket and wrench, remove the drivers side motor mount bolt. DONE

10. Using a 13mm socket, remove the 2 bolts holding the starter in place. Starter may be removed completely or it may hang suspended by the battery cable. DONE-COMPLETELY REMOVED

11. Using a 13mm socket, remove all 4 bolts holding the passenger side motor mount to the motor. DONE

12. Remove the cotter pins from both outer tie rod ends. Using an 18mm wrench, loosen both castle nuts until the nut is flush with the top of the stud. Using a brass hammer, tap the castel nut unitl the tie rod end breaks loose from the spindle. DONE

13. Using a 15mm wrench and 18mm socket, loosen both rack and pinion mounting bolts. It is not possible to remove the drivers side bolt until the k-member is lowered. DONE-HAVENT REMOVED EITHER BOLT THOUGH

14. Using an 11mm wrench, remove the steering shaft bolt located directly above the rack and pinion. DONE

15. Using a 10mm socket, remove all 4 brake line retaining tab bolts that attatch to the side of the k-member. DONE

16. Using a 21mm socket and wrench, remove both lower a-arm mounting bolts for both the drivers and passengers side. DONE-CANT REMOVE BOLTS THOUGH

17. Using an 18mm socket, remove all 6 k-member mounting bolts. JUST LOOSENED

Thats as far as Ive gotten. I dont have a 2nd person at the moment, so I dont want to go any further. I need to fully complete previous steps that I havent yet before I move on to the next step. Need help though. Thanks.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

16. Using a 21mm socket and wrench, remove both lower a-arm mounting bolts for both the drivers and passengers side. DONE-CANT REMOVE BOLTS THOUGH

I cant get either bolts out from the a-arms on either side. When I push up on the back 2, it hits on the k-member and the front 2 hit on the rack and pinion. (the rigitdy black portion)

12. Remove the cotter pins from both outer tie rod ends. Using an 18mm wrench, loosen both castle nuts until the nut is flush with the top of the stud. Using a brass hammer, tap the castel nut unitl the tie rod end breaks loose from the spindle. DONE

Do I remove the nut once it has broken loose and remove the tie rod end completely from the spindle? Do I remove the bottom of the shock from the lower a-arm? Do you remove it completey off the spindle?

Lastly, #17 says remove all k-member bolts which I only have loosened them because I dont want to go any further. The next step (#18) says:

Lower the k-member enough to remove the drivers side rack and pinion bolt. Remove rack and pinion assembly.

Ok...that doesnt make sense, how do I lower it? Do I need to support the k-member before I totally remove the k-member bolts because that sounds logical and if so, it wasnt specified. Then how do you remove the entire rack and pinion? Sorry for all the questions, this is very difficult going by basic instructions, doing it for the first time, and having to do it by yourself. Thanks

critter

iTrader: (9)

I jacked the engine up and hung it from a length of 1x1 box tubing laid across the spring towers. Then I started taking the K Member out. I just had a bottle jack under the K-member to keep it from falling on me. I managed to get the old out and new in without disconnecting anything from the spindles. I can't speak to the instruction numbers because I forgot the instructions and just started taking things off that got in the way.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I cant go any further as I speak. I cant remove the a-arms from the k-member because the front 2 bolts are blocked by the rack and pinion and the rear 2 are block by the frame. Without those 4 bolts coming out, the a-arms will not come out. The rack and pinion is unbolted and the only bolt that is still in is the drivers side which cannot be removed until the k-member is lowered. The rack and pinion will not budge. I assume that I need to support the k-member before I take the k-member bolts out correct? Why arent my bolts to the a-arms coming out and what can I do? Thanks.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

14. Using an 11mm wrench, remove the steering shaft bolt located directly above the rack and pinion. DONE

Removed the bolt, do I need to take the shaft off the rack and pinion? If so, how is this done because I tried and its very difficult.

angst911

on the a-arms portion..... the rack is in the way.... yes... put the steering shaft back in, turn the wheels to one side, you can undo one bolt, turn them the other way, and you can undo the second bolt....

OR... get the power steering out of the car first as you should... I don't remember which lines they are, lemme see if I can find the pics of my k-member w/ the motor out....

ok, couldn't find the pictures, but attached is the best I could do on short notice... note the two lines that are circled... hope that helps.

critter

iTrader: (9)

The engine needs to go up to get the driver side bolt out of the rack. You have to unbolt both ends of the double j-joint steering shaft and slide it back toward the firewall to get if off the rack. The rack should then come out. You have to support the engine anyway, so lift it up a bit when you do. Like I said, I jacked it up and then hung it from a bar across the fender wells. A piece of pipe would work. Or your STB. The rear of the crossmember has to come down a bit to get the rear A-arm bolts out, or perhaps, since the hole is slotted, you could rotate the bolt to pull the rear of the A-arm in, or maybe push on the spindle to move the rear arm inboard. I noticed that after I had taken it apart.
I used a small bottle jack to support the K-member while I loosened it.

JohnR

iTrader: (1)

I left the power steering hoses connected. After removing the bolts for the power steering rack, I let it hang from a bungie cord. Getting the steering rack mounted properly in the new K-Member was the biggest hassle. I used a good hand file and worked the mounting plates and the welding bead so the rack could bolt up.
I used a little bottle jack and a 2x4 under the oil pan to support the engine.
Make sure your alignment mechanic makes the bolts "Mother &%$*ing tight" or you'll be buying another alignment real soon.

critter

iTrader: (9)

You too, huh? I didn't file as one end of the rack was rubber bushed. I just pried until I got the bolt in.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

Whats the trick to removing the bolt on the rear of the A-arm that is verticle?

I have the k-member out of the car completely and even took a BFH and it wouldn't come out. I may end up just buying new bolts from the dealer.

felton316

Once I got it loose, I had to take an 3/8" extension and a hammer to drive it out from the bottom.

Magnus

iTrader: (4)

I have been POUNDING at them with a sledge hammer and they refuse to budge.